Check valve on bypass filter?

[Cujet]

I have a Lister CS diesel engine clone, AKA a "Listeroid". I have mounted up my Motorguard filter for use as a bypass oil filter. The oil stays cool in these low speed engines, so I am currently going to use the Motorguard element. Others do this with good results.

In any case, the Motorguard has an inlet and outlet on the bottom. I am worried about trapped particles draining back down into the engine, as the oil DOES drain out of the oil manifold backwards through the oil pump.

Do most bypass filters use a check valve on the inlet side?

TIA,

Chris

 

[RalphPWood]

The only check valves I have seen on bypass filters are on the big filters. A check valve would take care of the problem. The old Motor Guards filtered from the bottom up. The oil draining back was a problem when all you had was a bypass filter. To solve the problem we tilted the filter so that the large particles went to the edge of the bottom of the filter like a gold miners pan. Beetles were famous for a lot of large chunks of steel and other metals in the oil. That's why it was very hard to wear out a VW Beetle with a filter that cleaned oil. Frantz put the filter upside down on the Beetles. You can get the little spring loaded check valves from places like www.mcmaster.com. The Motor Guard elements are a special filter paper designed to handle water. For hot oil I pull out the core with a pair of pliers. I split a TP core and slide it in. You don't need a core if the element sucks up against the core. I don't think they filter better than a high quality roll of TP. The label can take the heat. It must be polypropylene. The MG-60 won't drain back but they are messy to change. The oil goes down thru the core and up thru the paper. Engines with a full flow filter don't have a problem.

Ralph

 

[Cujet]

OK, thanks for the info. I will install a check valve.

As far as the core goes, I do not understand what you mean.

would you be willing to explain it to me in a more basic way?

Thanks

Chris

 

[Quickbeam]

I assume (yeah, I know) when he says "core" he's at times referring to both the cardboard TP core and also the center tube in the MG. Not sure though.

 

[Gary Allan]

If I read it correctly:

MG filters are to absorb moisture in air lines. The center core of the filter is not suitable for hot oil applications. He takes out the OEM MG element core and inserts a TP cardboard core to assure that the MG element fits tightly against the MG center core. You don't need to do this if the core is tight against the center "tube" (core) of the MG.

 

[RalphPWood]

The Motor Guard M-723 element is like coffee filter paper in a roll. My Ford will melt the plastic core. The core will also break down in fuel. The plastic label that keeps the paper from unrolling can take the fuel or hot motor oil. It is probably Polypropylene. Motor Guard isn't interested in lube oil filters these days. Compressed air filters have kept them in business all these years. One if the original founders of Motor Guard has bought a couple of filters from me. He is glad I brought them back. I would put the check valve and orifice at the inlet. I save the empty cores from the bathroom. I split them with a pair of scissors. I pull out the plastic core and insert the TP core. You probably don't need to add a core to a new 723 element. It will suck up against the copper core when the tee handle compresses the roll. The original compressed air filters of the 60s used TP.

Ralph