cheap cleaning oil "100 mile interval"

Status
Not open for further replies.
Joined
Nov 7, 2005
Messages
41
Location
MI
I recently did some motor work on my car, and it was recommended once everything is back together to change the oil and run it for 5-10 minutes. then change the oil again, run it for a few hours or days. Then change it again and run it for a week or two. I'm looking for a good cheap off the shelf oil (probably from Walmart) that would help me accomplish this cleaning.
I think I can get away with not using synthetic, and after reading the oil guide my thought was to use a 0W30 to allow for better circulation, since it will not be in there long. would you agree? Which brands of oil should I look at since I have about 10 different ones to choose from. Thanks!
 
A 0w30 is a synthetic. If your near a Menards the FS is on sale for $1.99 qt. If not go with the cheapest Wal-Mart oil.
 
Are you going to change the filter as well each time? Obviously your goal is to catch any metal particles.

I've never done major engine work, is that was is recommended for the first 5-10 mins?

What was the extent of the engine work? Porting and polishing heads? Boring the pistons?

Regards, JC.
 
ahh you're right theres barely any 0w30s. maybe just a cheap 5w30 will work then. No menards in my area. I'm figuring its gonna be around $10-15 per 5 quart jug. Which ones are good and which ones to avoid? would one be better suited just to clean and carry [censored]/coolant away from towards the filter? I've never looked at any of these oils before, I just use M1 syn only, but that will be a big waste here (and $90 too).
Originally Posted By: JC1
Are you going to change the filter as well each time? Obviously your goal is to catch any metal particles.

I've never done major engine work, is that was is recommended for the first 5-10 mins?

What was the extent of the engine work? Porting and polishing heads? Boring the pistons?

Regards, JC.

I think it really depends on what kind of work you do, I didn't take the heads off, I had coolant mixing with the oil from lower intake gasket leaks.
i'm gonna get purolator classics or prolines and change each time, whichever i find locally.
 
Last edited:
What motor work was done and who recommended you do all these oil changes?

A good technician would have done quality work and not left debris inside your motor.

All those oil changes are total overkill, if the work was done by a professional
 
Originally Posted By: Warstud
A 0w30 is a synthetic. If your near a Menards the FS is on sale for $1.99 qt. If not go with the cheapest Wal-Mart oil.


What is FS oil.
 
Based on the username, I'm guessing rockers/cam/intake manifold gaskets on a Firebird. If it's intake manifold gaskets, it's cheap insurance.

Go get 5 quarts of the cheapest API SM or SN 5w30 available, and run it for a few minutes. Then proceed as normal.
 
If you have an AAP near you, Nextgen is FAR.
Doesn't get much cheaper than that.
Run it for a week, and by that time, there should be another FAR deal on G-Oil, which you could then use for the next 3K or so.
If you're worried about particle contamination, the oil filter should catch anything big enough to do any harm.
 
Originally Posted By: sciphi
Based on the username, I'm guessing rockers/cam/intake manifold gaskets on a Firebird. If it's intake manifold gaskets, it's cheap insurance.

Go get 5 quarts of the cheapest API SM or SN 5w30 available, and run it for a few minutes. Then proceed as normal.

this man knows his Fbodies.
11.gif

are the SM/SN basically going to be any major brand on the shelf? I'll check the labels but I'll bet that emcompasses about all of them. Figured i'd ask if one brand should be picked over another, like castrol over pennzoil or valvoline or something.
 
supertech 5w30 in the $12-13 range, mobil super highmilage a few bucks more, theres about 3 different valvolines (maxlife, nextgen, premium conventional, plain pennzoil, castrol gtx, etc. etc. which would be the best for this purpose?
 
If you need to run the oil for few minutes I would get the lowest cost xW20. Run it in the engine until the coolant reaches operating temperature for 10-15 minutes, at that time the coolant should me at operating temp too.
 
I know I am going to regret this but..............


Do you or a friend have a vehicle that is in need of an oil change? Why not just use the used oil for your initial super short OCI?

Then go with a Pennzoil conventional for the 100 mile and 1k mile OCI's.


All your doing with the first oil is picking up any garbage left over from your repairs.
 
Originally Posted By: LckydevL

I know I am going to regret this but..............


Do you or a friend have a vehicle that is in need of an oil change? Why not just use the used oil for your initial super short OCI?

Then go with a Pennzoil conventional for the 100 mile and 1k mile OCI's.


All your doing with the first oil is picking up any garbage left over from your repairs.




I vote Pennzoil conventional too. Great cleaning, cheap tag. Snag some purolator classic filters too.
 
I vote for Pennzoil conventional, Mobil Super 5000, or Quaker State conventional.
I've got nothing against Supertech, but there are better oils out there for similar money. Supertech is like 13 bucks and Mobil Super 5000 is like 14 bucks.
Good luck, and let us know how you make out.
 
Go to Advance.....they have loads of oils on clearance....even the Advance Auto conventional is a good price. Or else...go to Walmart and get the Supertech High Mileage.
 
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
If you have an AAP near you, Nextgen is FAR.


Man oh man, i had to use position 6 on my decoder ring to decrypt that one.
 
For that sort of thing, I'd find what sort of house brand HDEOs are available.

Can get home branded HDEO in 10L drums here for about 60% the price of GTX
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom