Changing oil makes engine burn it faster?

[ZeeOSix]

My engine does not have any problem at all going to redline on a flat road surface or keeping up with a 345 hp audi s5. Only when climbing hills then I lose power. I've tested it out on 3 steep inclines, 2 of which I'm stuck at the same speed and rpm. I do need to keep my foot halfway on the accelerator pedal just to maintain speed on 1 on the inclines in 4th gear.

Every vehicle on earth needs more throttle to go up very steep hills. If it didn't you have one heck of a machine.

 

[kschachn]

Google time ...

I was more stuck on the idea of an 820 foot mountain. But thanks.

 

[tlgsz]

I was more stuck on the idea of an 820 foot mountain. But thanks.

I did more research and found that it's just 300 feet above sea level where I live.

 

[BAJA_05]

Come to find out this thread starter is Auto Mechanics Brother in real life probably!!!

 

[tyman]

Come to find out this thread starter is Auto Mechanics Brother in real life probably!!!

 

[71Chevyguy]

My engine was built for a chevy impala military vehicle so I doubt Milzy would shy on the bottom end. It is a milled block with a crank scraper included.

The manager of the mechanic shop that I did the fuel pump drives a 1200 hp twin turbo foxbody mustang, bored out to 5.2 litres, so I doubt that he would put something cheap or stock back into my car. He even said that my car has a good cam in it haha. Yes, I am using 94 octane in my engine, I've always put that fuel in since I bought the car.

My last oil change I only went 5000 km's before changing the oil again to the most current oil change that I have now.

You said that maybe you are burning oil because there was no crosshatch on the cylinders when you saw the motor apart. That means there was no machining done on the lower end. No way it can run properly with all that stuff done to it on the top end and leaving the bottom end stock. I'm surprised it doesn't burn more honestly.

 

[tlgsz]

You said that maybe you are burning oil because there was no crosshatch on the cylinders when you saw the motor apart. That means there was no machining done on the lower end. No way it can run properly with all that stuff done to it on the top end and leaving the bottom end stock. I'm surprised it doesn't burn more honestly.

I just asked the previous owner of my car, he said that it has a stage 3 racing block with a crank scraper included.

 

[sleepery]

Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am with the 3400 V6 engine with about 270,000 km's (167,000 miles) on it currently. In 2018 I had some engine work done by my mechanic, I had both heads port polished with the oil valleys opened a bit wider for more oil flow, new head gasket, new valve cover gaskets and new upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.

At the time of the engine work I was using Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic 5w-30 oil, I did not really like this oil at all as it only lasted 5000 km's in my engine and it was smelling pretty bad when it got dirtier.

In the same year 2018, I then switched to the Castrol Edge synthetic oil 5w-30 (in the black bottle) and ran that oil up until 19,000 km's (11,806 miles), until it started to smell bad then I changed it after. In those 19,000 km's I only had to add 2.5 quarts of oil in my engine for the time being. I was absolutely amazed and astonished that I finally solved my engine burning issues as I didn't have to add too much oil in my engine.

In 2019 after using the Castrol edge in the black bottle I then switched to the Castrol edge extended performance 5w-30 (in the gold bottle). After a month of using this new oil I noticed that I had to add a quart once a month in my engine every time. Even though I had to add more oil I sticked with this new oil as it has titanium and it lowers the frequency of my engine's idle which no oil had ever done before.

In 2020 I used the same oil with the same burning issues but sticked with it anyways all the way though the year. I took more notice in my issues last year. I topped up my oil to the fill mark, whenever I would run my engine hard it would burn from the 4th hole to the 3rd hole on the dipstick.

I then changed my oil again after running that one up to 5000 km's thinking that I received a bad batch at the store.

I used the same oil in the gold bottle and only put about 1600 km's since my last oil change and had to put 700mL of oil in my engine.

I did notice that I had a slow leaking drain plug which may be contributing to my oil loss, and I also noticed a little bit of blue smoke upon start up but it goes away after a few seconds.

When my engine was taken apart I looked inside all of the cylinders and noticed that there's no cross-hatch on the cylinders anymore, which also maybe why I'm losing oil also.

Why would switching the oil sub brand make my engine lose the oil faster than the previous one? Would my engine being high mileage be the reason why I'm losing oil?

I also cannot go faster than 180 km's in 4th gear full throttle at 4000 rpm's on steep inclines. The speed gets stuck there and my car does not go any faster. Plus this is where mostly I lose oil from.

Any input or feedback will be greatly appreciated,

Thanks!

https://rislone.com/product/compression-repair-with-ring-seal/ Not sure if this will help but worth a shot.. (Rislone compression repair with ring seal ) Sorry if link is not ok .

 

[tlgsz]

https://rislone.com/product/compression-repair-with-ring-seal/ Not sure if this will help but worth a shot.. (Rislone compression repair with ring seal ) Sorry if link is not ok .

Thanks for the link but I try to refrain from any quick fixes. I'd rather fix the actual problem on a long term basis rather than a short one, that's just me though

 

[Zee09]

Every vehicle on earth needs more throttle to go up very steep hills. If it didn't you have one heck of a machine.

Not if it's being towed.

 

[tlgsz]

You said that maybe you are burning oil because there was no crosshatch on the cylinders when you saw the motor apart. That means there was no machining done on the lower end. No way it can run properly with all that stuff done to it on the top end and leaving the bottom end stock. I'm surprised it doesn't burn more honestly.

Would having no crosshatch just mean that it's just from normal wear and tear from high mileage on my engine?

 

[OilReport99]

Hi everyone, I have a 2000 Pontiac Grand Am with the 3400 V6 engine with about 270,000 km's (167,000 miles) on it currently. In 2018 I had some engine work done by my mechanic, I had both heads port polished with the oil valleys opened a bit wider for more oil flow, new head gasket, new valve cover gaskets and new upper and lower intake manifold gaskets.

At the time of the engine work I was using Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic 5w-30 oil, I did not really like this oil at all as it only lasted 5000 km's in my engine and it was smelling pretty bad when it got dirtier.

In the same year 2018, I then switched to the Castrol Edge synthetic oil 5w-30 (in the black bottle) and ran that oil up until 19,000 km's (11,806 miles), until it started to smell bad then I changed it after. In those 19,000 km's I only had to add 2.5 quarts of oil in my engine for the time being. I was absolutely amazed and astonished that I finally solved my engine burning issues as I didn't have to add too much oil in my engine.

In 2019 after using the Castrol edge in the black bottle I then switched to the Castrol edge extended performance 5w-30 (in the gold bottle). After a month of using this new oil I noticed that I had to add a quart once a month in my engine every time. Even though I had to add more oil I sticked with this new oil as it has titanium and it lowers the frequency of my engine's idle which no oil had ever done before.

In 2020 I used the same oil with the same burning issues but sticked with it anyways all the way though the year. I took more notice in my issues last year. I topped up my oil to the fill mark, whenever I would run my engine hard it would burn from the 4th hole to the 3rd hole on the dipstick.

I then changed my oil again after running that one up to 5000 km's thinking that I received a bad batch at the store.

I used the same oil in the gold bottle and only put about 1600 km's since my last oil change and had to put 700mL of oil in my engine.

I did notice that I had a slow leaking drain plug which may be contributing to my oil loss, and I also noticed a little bit of blue smoke upon start up but it goes away after a few seconds.

When my engine was taken apart I looked inside all of the cylinders and noticed that there's no cross-hatch on the cylinders anymore, which also maybe why I'm losing oil also.

Why would switching the oil sub brand make my engine lose the oil faster than the previous one? Would my engine being high mileage be the reason why I'm losing oil?

I also cannot go faster than 180 km's in 4th gear full throttle at 4000 rpm's on steep inclines. The speed gets stuck there and my car does not go any faster. Plus this is where mostly I lose oil from.

Any input or feedback will be greatly appreciated,

Thanks!

Replace the engine.

 

[KGMtech]

I hope this car is not doing 180km/h uphill in a school zone? FWIW, the lack of performance does match the age and wear of the engine.

Next thought, are the brakes improved? or just stock with 2 seized calipers and original brake fluid?

 

[JC1]

I did more research and found that it's just 300 feet above sea level where I live.

Where in Canada are you located? Driving at the speeds you are indicating I'm surprised you haven't had your license taken away or crashed and hurt yourself or someone else.

Especially in an American car that old that probably isn't the safest car in terms of crash worthiness and handling.

If you need to drive that fast buy yourself a motorcycle.

 

[PimTac]

If you need to drive that fast buy yourself a motorcycle.

 

[tlgsz]

I hope this car is not doing 180km/h uphill in a school zone? FWIW, the lack of performance does match the age and wear of the engine.

Next thought, are the brakes improved? or just stock with 2 seized calipers and original brake fluid?

Yes the brakes are custom made from adamrotors.com, they are custom made zinc coated, from the corvette c6 and I'm using the hawk hps high performance 5.0 ferro-carbon brake pads.

 

[tlgsz]

Where in Canada are you located? Driving at the speeds you are indicating I'm surprised you haven't had your license taken away or crashed and hurt yourself or someone else.

Especially in an American car that old that probably isn't the safest car in terms of crash worthiness and handling.

If you need to drive that fast buy yourself a motorcycle.

I live in hamilton, ontario. At the time there was absolutely no one on the highway coming up or down, this was like 4 in the morning.

 

[Justus1]

Does 180 km = about 110 mph? Up hill? I'm 4th. gear? Maybe the "intelligent" molecules just wanted to escape.

 

[tlgsz]

Replace the engine.

I don't want to lose all the mods that have been done to my engine.

 

[71Chevyguy]

Would having no crosshatch just mean that it's just from normal wear and tear from high mileage on my engine?

Yes, no crosshatch means it is worn out and therefore burning oil. Not to mention that no crosshatch means the cylinders aren't getting oiled properly causing ring and cylinder wear. This could be from abuse or it also might be from running too thin an oil and it simply wore itself out.