Changing oil makes engine burn it faster?

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To me, it sounds like several things are going on here. First of all a lot of high performance stuff was done on the top end. That was all bolted on to a really tired bottom end. That really is the wrong way to go.

The fuel pump probably should have been replaced with at least a top quality unit if not higher performance to keep up with the fuel demands of all of the performance parts. If you are having issues with it, it might be due to ignition retard because of burning the oil. Oil in the combustion chamber lowers octane, I would hope you are running high octane fuel with all of that cam and a tune.

As for oil, you may want to try a thicker oil to deal with the engine wear and see if that helps you. I think the problem is that not everything was done the way it should and these are the final results. Also you will most likely need to change your oil more often than you would on a stock engine because of the modifications.
 
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That's what I was thinking.

If someone can correct me if I'm wrong but the gold bottle castrol is formulated for "new" engines that have tight clearances and won't make the engine burn it faster as opposed to my high mileage engine.

The only reason why I sticked to the gold bottle castrol is because it lowers the frequency of my idle.
The gold bottle Edge is geared toward extended oil changes. It sounds like your engine was built "loose" per se, since is was built with high performance in mind. Maybe a thicker oil is what you need.
 

tlgsz

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Are you running the stock tune? If so, you might be hitting the speed limiter at 180 kph. I rode in an Olds of about that vintage that was limited to 110 mph.

Nope, the speed limiter has been removed by the previous owner
 
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Canada, eh?
At the time of the engine work I was using Mobil 1 advanced full synthetic 5w-30 oil, I did not really like this oil at all as it only lasted 5000 km's in my engine and it was smelling pretty bad when it got dirtier.
How do you know the oil "only lasted 5000kms"?
As many have indicated on this site, smell is not a way to determine if an oil has "expired" or needs to be changed.
 

tlgsz

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To me, it sounds like several things are going on here. First of all a lot of high performance stuff was done on the top end. That was all bolted on to a really tired bottom end. That really is the wrong way to go.

The fuel pump probably should have been replaced with at least a top quality unit if not higher performance to keep up with the fuel demands of all of the performance parts. If you are having issues with it, it might be due to ignition retard because of burning the oil. Oil in the combustion chamber lowers octane, I would hope you are running high octane fuel with all of that cam and a tune.

As for oil, you may want to try a thicker oil to deal with the engine wear and see if that helps you. I think the problem is that not everything was done the way it should and these are the final results. Also you will most likely need to change your oil more often than you would on a stock engine because of the modifications.

My engine was built for a chevy impala military vehicle so I doubt Milzy would shy on the bottom end. It is a milled block with a crank scraper included.

The manager of the mechanic shop that I did the fuel pump drives a 1200 hp twin turbo foxbody mustang, bored out to 5.2 litres, so I doubt that he would put something cheap or stock back into my car. He even said that my car has a good cam in it haha. Yes, I am using 94 octane in my engine, I've always put that fuel in since I bought the car.

My last oil change I only went 5000 km's before changing the oil again to the most current oil change that I have now.
 

tlgsz

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How do you know the oil "only lasted 5000kms"?
As many have indicated on this site, smell is not a way to determine if an oil has "expired" or needs to be changed.

At the time I only smelled oil though my leaking exhaust header manifold flange, and inside my car though the vents. I know that is not a way to determine that the oil needs changing but I still did it anyways just to make sure.
 
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Canada, eh?
At the time I only smelled oil though my leaking exhaust header manifold flange, and inside my car though the vents. I know that is not a way to determine that the oil needs changing but I still did it anyways just to make sure.
So why did you run other oils to 19,000kms and not that one mentioned above?
 

tlgsz

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The gold bottle Edge is geared toward extended oil changes. It sounds like your engine was built "loose" per se, since is was built with high performance in mind. Maybe a thicker oil is what you need.

My oil cap says 5w-30 so that's what I went with. I know it's the factory oil cap and not a way to determine what type of oil grade is needed by the engine builder.

Would you know if castrol sells the gold bottle in the 10w-30 grade?
 
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My oil cap says 5w-30 so that's what I went with. I know it's the factory oil cap and not a way to determine what type of oil grade is needed by the engine builder.

Would you know if castrol sells the gold bottle in the 10w-30 grade?
Definitely check with your engine builder and see what he recommends. Looks like Castrol gold bottle's thickest is 5W30. You could try Castrol Edge High Mileage 10W30 or 10W40.
 

tlgsz

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So why did you run other oils to 19,000kms and not that one mentioned above?

I was just trying to push the oil life to see how much I can get out of that castrol edge. I never went below half on the dipstick without topping the oil up so no damage done there. I didn't push the extended performance one because I wanted to figure out why I was losing oil so I changed it way before the oil life is intended to. I was thinking that I got a bad batch at the store because I bought the oil on sale rather than the full price.
 

tlgsz

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Definitely check with your engine builder and see what he recommends. Looks like Castrol gold bottle's thickest is 5W30. You could try Castrol Edge High Mileage 10W30 or 10W40.

Okay, I will email him and see what oil he says to recommend. I will really miss the lower frequency idle though haha
 

tlgsz

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You do realize he's talking about having that old car going over 110 MPH "on steep inclines". And it isn't even April 1 yet.

After installing the new spark plugs, my car is just a bumper away from a 2020 audi s5 which makes 345 hp so there's that.
 
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Forget the oil weight on the cap, you are not running that engine anymore. You should be running a 10w40, you are stressing every part of that motor. If the oil is causing the RPM to drop its probably because its fouling the plugs. The blue smoke at startup is probably rings but you should get a leakdown and compression test done to be sure the valves are seated and not carboned up.
 
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My engine was installed in 2006 by Milzy Motorsports in Ohio, the engine is not stock or original to the factory engine at all, here are the mods:

.556/.560 lift (222/226 110 LSA)/Stage II Heads:Race Valve Job (9-angle Intake, Radiused Exhaust)/LS6 Valve Springs w 1/2" guides/Chrome Molly Rods/10:1 Compression Ratio/P&P Upper and Lower Intake Manifolds/36lb GTP Injectors/65mm Port Matched TCE TB/S&S Headers/2.5" Custom Exhaust

Even with all those mods and power I still get stuck on big inclines at 180 km/h's...I figured it could be either valve seals or piston rings because of the high mileage of the engine.

I don't really have anything to measure the frequency of my idle, I do have a big cam in this engine which already makes it deeper than stock but no other oil besides the gold bottle castrol will lower the idle frequency even more than stock. I've even tested it out when I had to top up my oil and used a quart of castrol GTX which raised the frequency back to normal again, only the gold bottle lowers the idle after a few months of regular driving/use.
Wait, you're from Ohio but measure speed in kph???
 
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Okay, I will email him and see what oil he says to recommend. I will really miss the lower frequency idle though haha

That would be the best. Go with what your performance builder says.

So, true talk for a second here...

You got your tachometer swapped out for a meter calibrated in Hz? ;>

I still have my stock tach on my muscle rig. But I barely look at it. It only has three frequencies.

Rumble.

Roar.

Thunder-cackle-bang! Pretty easy to tell just by ear alone. 🙃

What is a chevy impala military vehicle?

You know the ones. They come custom painted in Kelly green or desert buff satin. 🏜
 

tlgsz

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Mar 15, 2021
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Forget the oil weight on the cap, you are not running that engine anymore. You should be running a 10w40, you are stressing every part of that motor. If the oil is causing the RPM to drop its probably because its fouling the plugs. The blue smoke at startup is probably rings but you should get a leakdown and compression test done to be sure the valves are seated and not carboned up.

Not the rpm that is dropping but the sound of it at idle, the rpm is set at 875 rpm's
 
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