Even with all the replies saying that I should use a thicker oil to stop consumption, that won't really fix my problem if it is the rings or valve seals. I also noticed a small puff of blue smoke just before WOT out though both exhaust pipes with me being behind the car.
Changing oil makes engine burn it faster?
- Thread starter tlgsz
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Even with all the replies saying that I should use a thicker oil to stop consumption, that won't really fix my problem if it is the rings or valve seals. I also noticed a small puff of blue smoke just before WOT out though both exhaust pipes with me being behind the car.
I agree with the recommendation of thicker oil. It may help slow down the consumption. Personally with an engine that has been modified like this one, I wouldn’t have used 5W-30 in the first place. Sounds like it was modified significantly.
Probably valve seals installed incorrectly and/or incorrect seals were installed. Struggling RPMs - valve lash ran down too tight.... A cam that radical in small CID won’t make power anything under 5,000 RPMs. Sounds like a mis-matched combination.
I see. When you say that valve lash ran down too tight, do you mean that the mechanic who did the engine work in 2018 tighten the bolts on the valves too tight when installing everything back together? I remember him telling me that he had to contact the engine builder to ask him what are the torque specs of the bolts.
My engine does not have any problem at all going to redline on a flat road surface or keeping up with a 345 hp audi s5. Only when climbing hills then I lose power. I've tested it out on 3 steep inclines, 2 of which I'm stuck at the same speed and rpm. I do need to keep my foot halfway on the accelerator pedal just to maintain speed on 1 on the inclines in 4th gear.
My tuner and previous owner was telling me that my engine only makes power and torque up to 6600 rpm's when he was tuning it on the laptop, after that I lose power to redline because I need stiffer springs than what I have right now. Even those 300 pound compression springs are still not enough for the cam.
I live in canada, so I'm not sure if those oils are available to me like in the US.
I did find that castrol makes the 10w-30 in the edge formula. I was just looking at their supercar oil which is 10w-60.
English as a second language.
How does that explain the assertion that it is the titanium in the oil that affected the frequency of the idle?
Sorry for being all over the place in my first post, I tried to make everything as understandable as I could.
4T45 transmission, it's a 4 speed.
I didn't mean that the titanium in the oil affects the frequency of the idle. I meant to say that the new oil that I used has titanium in it giving it better protection and sheering quality. More howsoever using this new oil does make the frequency go lower.
So you've got a 20 year old American pushrod V6 with nearly 170,000 miles that you've pumped up to ~330HP with an original, stock bottom end. Needless to say, it is going to burn oil, especially driving it the way you are.
To answer your original question about fresh oil burning faster... it's common for some oils to evaporate or "burn off" the lighter components when it's fresh, until the oil level eventually becomes more steady. This does not happen with all oils, and it depends on other factors including the type/condition of engine and driving habits (hot rodding / short trips), etc. If the oil level continues to drop significantly after a few thousand miles, either you need to switch the oil brand or viscosity (which you have been doing) or you need to concede that your engine is an oil burner. The good news is that you're not burning a ton of oil and your engine may live a very long time since you're keeping it topped up. I agree 10w40 is a good choice for this motor. Good luck.
Thanks for your reply. My engine was installed in 2006 which would make it 15 years this year.
I do have to add a quart of oil once a month in my engine, that's with regular driving and the occasional WOT. So burning 746mL of oil in 1600 km's is not much oil according to the specs, mileage and driving habits? I have exactly 200mL left in the quart of oil that I threw in the engine.
No matter what the brand is I still lose oil but I never switched the viscosity since I bought the car.
This. It is also telling that the majority of his oil loss is happening while going up steep inclines in high gear which from my guess is working that old engine extremely hard.
We don’t know how steep these hills are or how long but maybe reconsider how you drive up these hills.
I agree, also high gear is a very tall gear in my transmission which would put more strain on my engine and with all the mods my car is heavier than the stock weight.
I've been trying to get the % grade of the hills that I go up on but I'm unable to get any information on it. the only information I got is the highest point of the mountain is 250m (820 feet) above sea level.
Okay.
What mountain in your area is 820 feet MSL?
Google time ...
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