Changing oil filter on a Mazda6i

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DennisB

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Aug 27, 2004
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Madison, WI
I just bought a new ('04) Mazda6i, and have discovered this car's lousy oil filter cartridge. Although this system is much less convenient than a spin-on filter, changing it doesn't appear all that difficult and I have the ramps and tools necessary to do it. But I have a question before I begin.

In the instructions I've read for changing the filter cartridge in this vehicle, it says that after the new cartridge has been swapped in the cartridge cover should be tightened to 25.8 ft. lbs. and the oil plug to 7.3 ft. lbs. My question is: how critical are these numbers? I don't have a torque wrench and I'm wondering if I can simply reinstall these parts either hand-tight (as I've always done with spin-on filters) or tighter using a filter wrench.

Is it necessary for me to go get a torque wrench?

Also, I've learned from an earlier thread in this forum that cartridges and rings are available for around $5 from various vendors (part # A6000-121022). Many thanks for that information.
 
i really enjoy the layout of their forum, even if i don't drive a mazda.
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"...the cartridge cover should be tightened to 25.8 ft. lbs. and the oil plug to 7.3 ft. lbs."

These are not critical bolts, as opposed to say, wheel lug nuts or brake caliper bolts. It's as crude as it gets, but you can guesstimate simply by using a combination of feel and knowing how much common items weigh, such as a 20-25 lb bag of cat litter or an 8 lb one-gallon jug of water. Applying the "weight" of a large bag of cat litter at the tip of a 12" wrench is what's required for the cover, and the "weight" of a water jug needed for the drain plug. (Like I said, crude! But I think there's some common-sense merit to it, rather than a completely random "feels about right" tightening philosophy. Hopefully my comments here don't suggest brain deterioration brought about by heavy consumption of Sam Adams ale.)

When dealing with low-torque bolts such as the drain plug, I'd suggest skipping a ratchet set and use a shorter box-end hand wrench to avoid overtightening. Match the wrench length to the torque needed -- using a 14" adjustable wrench to tighten a 1/4" bolt would almost guarantee overtightening unless you were very careful.

Also, always keep a full set of old gaskets and washers from a cartridge oil change for possible future use. There was a time or two with my BMW that I had to reuse old rubbers/washers because something was missing from the filter box, or in one case the wrong o-ring which led to a 1 qt oil dump while driving.
 
Thanks to all. I'll replace the filter cover snuggly (and carefully) and check for leaks after adding new oil.

Also, for those who may not have found this already, replacement filter cartridges with O-rings (part# A6000-121022) are available for $5 apiece from Import Part Specials -- http://www.ips-parts.com/.
 
I agree that it is not necessary to have a torque wrench to change the oil and filter, if you use common sense and don't overtighten them. However you can get a nice 'click' type torque wrench from Harbor Freight Tools. Wait until they go on sale and they are a bargain. Like TC said, for the oil drain plug, choke up on the handle of the wrench to use less torque. IOW don't use a long handle wrench with Max force.
 
DennisB? Did you see one of the links to the Mazda6 tech shows -with photos- how to convert to a spin on filter. The conversion uses Mazda3 factory parts and all sensors mount up. It would probably pay for itself in two oil changes. One oil change if you factor in the pain and aggravation....
 
Jim Spahr. I did look at that conversion to a spin-on filter, and now, when my 6i is brand new, would be the time to do it. However, I spoke to the dealer's service manager and he said that making that conversion could void the warranty. He agreed that it is a logical thing to do, but said that Mazda has not yet authorized the conversion, nor (he said) is he aware that they are planning to do so anytime soon.

Until the factory makes it official, I I'll stay with the filter cartridge, much as I'd like to get rid of it.
 
DB, good point about the warranty. You don't want to give them anything to use to try to wiggle out of a valid warranty claim. It was a well written step by step with great photo's and part no's.
 
I believe all 05 6i's and 3s's have spin-on filters now. I'll confirm as soon as mazda uploads the new service manuals
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Mazda is converting back to spin-on instead of cartridge based systems, not because of any difference in efficency or problems related with the cartridge system...just because they only have a SINGLE primary supplier for the cartridge system, and about two dozen alternatives for the spin-on. They had multiple filter shortages in 03 and 04 because of the single supplier, and don't want to go through the hassle of dealing with it anymore.

As for effecting the warranty...it wouldn't be any different as if you were using a filter relocation kit...cept with the mazda parts, everything is a direct match up...

As for oils to use...we've got rediculous #'s of UOA's at
Mazda 6i and Mazda 6s UOA's

Generally the 5w-20 motorcraft semi-syn (stock oil) is fantastic, and extremely inexpensive (1.44/qt at wallmart). It gives some excellent UOA's, and is cheap and widely available to boot. Otherwise, pretty much any 20 or 30 wt oil does fine in the 6i, the engine's just likes to be lubricated, doesn't seem to have any particular tastes, though more power and mileage is usually seen with the 20 wt's.

[ August 30, 2004, 08:22 AM: Message edited by: crossbow ]
 
Thanks crossbow; that clear's up a lot. It doesn't explain why Mazda went with the filter cartridge in the first place, but it does mean that conversion to a spin-on is not going to harm the 2.3l engine.

But I'm still not clear about the warranty. I'd contacted a Mazda service manager about the conversion, thinking that if they would make the change, then this would guarantee warranty coverage. He agreed that the cartridge is a pain, and would as soon see it chenged. He said they don't make any money on oil and filter changes at their shop and that it only takes up mechanics' time that could be better employed elsewhere. But he also said that until Mazda authorizes the conversion and/or issues a conversion kit, that he wouldn't recommend making the change.

This suggests that if I were to make the conversion myself, there would still be a question of whether or not this would affect my warranty. Am I right to be cautious?
 
All I know about the spin-on conversion is what I've seen on that Mazda6tech site and here. I suppose it would be reversible, although a new gasket might be needed in putting old cartridge fitting back on. In any case, if crossbow is right that Mazda may authorize the conversion at some point, I'm content to wait. Dealing with the cartridge isn't all THAT bad.
 
I know I'm in the minority here, but on the BMW I owned until recently, I actually PREFERRED the cartridge filter over spin-on's. It was positioned at the top-front of the engine -- couldn't have been easier to get to or service. Never had to worry about oil spilling out on removal as with spin-on's. Never had to worry about whether a given spin-on filter's bypass valve or anti-drainback were up-to-snuff. Never had to worry about a stuck filter with the BMW, although admittedly it's been many years since I had to "spike" a spin-on with an oversize screwdriver.
 
quote:
Originally posted by TC:
I know I'm in the minority here, but on the BMW I owned until recently, I actually PREFERRED the cartridge filter over spin-on's. It was positioned at the top-front of the engine -- couldn't have been easier to get to or service. Never had to worry about oil spilling out on removal as with spin-on's. Never had to worry about whether a given spin-on filter's bypass valve or anti-drainback were up-to-snuff. Never had to worry about a stuck filter with the BMW, although admittedly it's been many years since I had to "spike" a spin-on with an oversize screwdriver.
Click to expand...
Yes, done right, the cartridge is actually easier. I am still outraged over the rip off pricing of the cartridges, but the market is working. I can pick up a Purolator L 15436 for $4 now for my Ecotec. Unscrew cap, snap old cartridge off, snap new one to cap, and screw cap back on, all from the top. Do not let King Kong tighten the cap.

[ August 30, 2004, 05:08 PM: Message edited by: labman ]
 
The biggest problem I see with the DIY aspect of the cartridge system on the 6i is the fact the entire oil assembly is held on by a "plastic cap".

This cap is EXTREMElY vulnerable to overtightening and over torquing. If you don't have the exact right wrench size, its very easy to tear the plastic off and almost strip the entire assembly cap in just a few slip ups of the wrench. In certain "poor service" dealerships, there has been a case or two of the cap blowing off, as it wasn't properly torqued down, or it was utterly stripped by the mechanic. Of course this happens with spin-on filters as well (as well as not being put on in the first place), so that part of it is pretty much null and void.

That and the 11-13 USD cost per filter was a bit high. Other then that, its actually a bit cleaner to use the cartridge system, as you can actually drain the oil from the filter assembly before removing it.

Btw we also have MTX and ATX tranny fluid change articles on 6tech as well, if you looking to go above and beyond normal vehicle maintance. I'll try and post the info on the spin-on as quickly as it becomes available.

It is definitely reversible as long as you keep the old parts. I would (as you mentioned) buy an additional gasket, and possibly some thread tape/sealant for the oil pressure sensor.
 
Crossbow and other Mazda folks. What are the Mazda6 owners on the tech forum with the factory cartridge set-up doing? IOW are thay converting to the Mazda3 spin on or are they learning to love the new cartridge system. Are they finding other(cheaper) sources for the $11.00 cartridge and O-rings? When the Mazda owner drives away from the dealership and the cartridge fails because it was not installed properly, does the dealership say 'so sorry' or do they pay for a new engine?
 
DB

Have you done some research about the spin on conversion.... and more importantly, does it look reversible??

I have a bano bolt instead of my drain plug to a hose with a quick disconnect, and that is for a bypass setup that I am saving for later. EASILY Reversible, if you save the original parts! So if warranty is still current try somthing like that.
 
quote:
What are the Mazda6 owners on the tech forum with the factory cartridge set-up doing?
Click to expand...
Some have converted. Some are waiting. Some have gotten their dealers to do the swap for them. There are some sites which you can get the filters for less cost, but its still more expensive then a standard 2 dollar spin-on. Plus you have to be careful that you ALSO get the 2 O-rings with the package. Some sites quote a very low price for the filter (like 6 dollars) but fail to include the o-rings. The o-rings can't be purchased seperately from the dealer. (It comes in a package, filter/o-rings) Some people get hosed that way, cause they gotta pay 10-11 dollars to get the **** o-rings...
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quote:
When the Mazda owner drives away from the dealership and the cartridge fails because it was not installed properly, does the dealership say 'so sorry' or do they pay for a new engine?
Click to expand...
Dealer replaces the engine, or if no apparent damage is done, gives them an extended warranty. Stretch (guy's car in the article) has the spin-on right now (2nd oil change) and hasn't had any issues or problems, and he races the living $#@! outta his car
smile.gif
. I'm trying to get an UOA on his oil interval.

http://www.mazdamart.com/
Has the 2.3L Cartridge filters + o-rings for about 5 dollars before shipping
smile.gif
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