Check the old filter and make sure the gasket is there, and not stuck to the engine. Then check the engine where the filter goes and make sure the old gasket is still not stuck there. Then triple check.
Changing my own oil...or not?
- Thread starter LouDawg
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you picked good filters and good oil
nice thing about full real synthetics is that one can go 10k miles between changes in normal non towing apps
after changing your oil
make sure the oil pressure gauge comes up to normal level or the oil light goes off after starting
check under the vehicle after driving the first day for any oil leaks, filters and drain plugs have been known to fail just after an oil change
look for oil drips on new filter and drain plug
check dipstick level couple times in first week, then once a week after that
you're good to go until the next oil change
nice thing about full real synthetics is that one can go 10k miles between changes in normal non towing apps
after changing your oil
make sure the oil pressure gauge comes up to normal level or the oil light goes off after starting
check under the vehicle after driving the first day for any oil leaks, filters and drain plugs have been known to fail just after an oil change
look for oil drips on new filter and drain plug
check dipstick level couple times in first week, then once a week after that
you're good to go until the next oil change
I made a simple set of ramps out of 2X8's. Cut the ends at an angle and screwed one on top of the other. Does Dodge recomend 5W20 for this van?
Rhino Ramps, ~$25-30 and available at most auto parts stores. They're made of plastic, lightweight, durable, very nice.
You've already gotten enough advice to devise a plan. The main take aways - be careful but don't be anal.
jeff
You've already gotten enough advice to devise a plan. The main take aways - be careful but don't be anal.
jeff
Lots of good advice. One thing not mentioned, remove and clean or replace the PCV valve every oil change. I use Gumout spray carb cleaner, and clean and inspect the PCV every 4 to 6 months, and replace when it starts to get that brown varnish look. Do this, with proper oil changes and your 3.3 will last forever. My wife's 2000 GC 3.3 has only ever had 10w30 oil, currently running M1.
Good luck,
Wayne
Good luck,
Wayne
I'll second the recomendation for the Rhino Ramps. Each one has a rubber foot at the end you first drive up, to prevent slippage. If you overdrive them they'll tend to just slide on the on the other side which has no rubber foot. The trick is to drive up them like you're going to pull forward a foot. Trying to crawl up them as slowly is possible is not the best way. Pulling off them you can go as slow as you want. You'll get the hang of it after a couple of trys.
Some of you will probably write this off as overkill, but I'd also recommend placing something like a sturdy tool box or a large block of wood under the frame of the car as a safety backup in case your primary lifting mechanism, whatever it is, fails. Put something down there that will maintain you a "survival space" long enough to scramble out of harms way if necessary.
A few years ago, I represented the family of a Navy Chief Petty Officer who had been crushed and suffocated to death under his car while performing maintenance (their insurance company tried, unsuccessfully in the end, to pretend that the policy they had issued didn't have a death benefit...). As Labman mentioned in another thread, it happens with sickening regularity. Be safe and deprive me and my colleagues of our next good case!
A few years ago, I represented the family of a Navy Chief Petty Officer who had been crushed and suffocated to death under his car while performing maintenance (their insurance company tried, unsuccessfully in the end, to pretend that the policy they had issued didn't have a death benefit...). As Labman mentioned in another thread, it happens with sickening regularity. Be safe and deprive me and my colleagues of our next good case!
If, after you pour in your 5 quarts of new oil, you see a pool a fresh oil oozing underneath your car, you forgot to re-install your drain plug.
Real men at BITOG never admit to doing this. Ever.
Real men at BITOG never admit to doing this. Ever.
You have enough room under many vehicle to not need ramps or jack stands. When there's not enough room, often you only need a few more inches to give you enough room. Here's a tip. Drive the front wheels up onto a curb. Or, find a depression, hollow spot, or other low area in your yard, driveway, parking area, etc., and drive the vehicle over it so that the oil pan plug is over the low spot. Either should give you the little bit of extra added room that you need
this should probably be a sticky for newbies getting away from the quickie lubes and doing it themselves.
The PCV valve is the only way to remove the blowby gasses from the crankcase. Look here for more info.
Keep in mind that Rhino ramps has two sizes. I have both. I think the bigger ones are 10 or 12,000 lbs and the smaller one I believe are rated about about 6 or 8,000 lbs.
If you are working on a good concrete or asphalt surface the smaller ones are fine. If working on less than perfect surface than I suggest the bigger set they are much more rigid. They can also be used for 3/4 or 1 ton trucks and vans as well.
The bigger ones are wider and have more strength ribs underneath.
Nothing better than doing it yourself!
If you are working on a good concrete or asphalt surface the smaller ones are fine. If working on less than perfect surface than I suggest the bigger set they are much more rigid. They can also be used for 3/4 or 1 ton trucks and vans as well.
The bigger ones are wider and have more strength ribs underneath.
Nothing better than doing it yourself!
Lou,
I'm not sure about the '02, but on a lot of the 2.4L Frontiers the PCV valve is only accessible by removing the power steering pump
Ughhh...don't want to have to do that!quote:
Originally posted by merc80:
Lou,
I'm not sure about the '02, but on a lot of the 2.4L Frontiers the PCV valve is only accessible by removing the power steering pumpDon't know why they'd put it there, but you could spend all day looking for it if you don't have a service manual specific to your car.
I recommend the yellow metal ramps sold at many dept and auto stores, along with the attachable extentions. The ramps are about $20, and the extensions are about $15. I forget the brand of these, though. They don't slide at all with the extensions attached, and they have a very gentle incline with them too.
I bought a cheap tarp for laying down under the drain pan to keep the driveway clean. Oil-dri or kitty litter helps with spills. I also keep an old carboard box with all the oil change tools I need, to keep them separate from the rest of my tools for easy access. I have also found the 15 quart drain pan sold at Walmart and other places very convenient since it can be sealed, and also has a ridge for draining the filter on it. Makes transport to the recycling facility of your choice very convenient.
I have also found that using disposable latex gloves make the job easier. In addition to keeping your hands clean, they also provide grip for tightening the oil filter, and protect your hands as you fish the drain plug out of the drain pan full of oil...
I bought a cheap tarp for laying down under the drain pan to keep the driveway clean. Oil-dri or kitty litter helps with spills. I also keep an old carboard box with all the oil change tools I need, to keep them separate from the rest of my tools for easy access. I have also found the 15 quart drain pan sold at Walmart and other places very convenient since it can be sealed, and also has a ridge for draining the filter on it. Makes transport to the recycling facility of your choice very convenient.
I have also found that using disposable latex gloves make the job easier. In addition to keeping your hands clean, they also provide grip for tightening the oil filter, and protect your hands as you fish the drain plug out of the drain pan full of oil...
That's interesting...not heard that one. What does this do, or more specifically, what will happen if the PCV is dirty or doesn't get cleaned as you stated?
On the subject of PCV valves, I haven't replaced mine before but I'll be doing so on the weekend, and the one I saw in the store doesn't look symmetrical. Is there a way to know which end points which way? Does it matter? I'm hoping the one in my car is identical and I can just put the new one in the same way, but I don't want to open things up and find it's a different style.
The one in the store looks kinda like this one, but the grey part is straight, not bent.
The one in the store looks kinda like this one, but the grey part is straight, not bent.
Depends on the make/model/engine type. All the Mopars that I'm familiar with use the bent type, (with the exception of the 3.0 mitsu engine. Not sure what it uses.), the large end goes into the engine, the small end goes into a vacumn hose connected somewhere to the intake manifold. The only others I've seen are for GM cars and are streight, with a metal end which goes into the engine.quote:
Originally posted by Vilan:
On the subject of PCV valves, I haven't replaced mine before but I'll be doing so on the weekend, and the one I saw in the store doesn't look symmetrical. Is there a way to know which end points which way? Does it matter? I'm hoping the one in my car is identical and I can just put the new one in the same way, but I don't want to open things up and find it's a different style.
The one in the store looks kinda like this one, but the grey part is straight, not bent.
On a side note, I did an oil change for my neighbor on her 96 Pontiac GP in Jan. It had 36K original miles, the last OCI was ~ 20 months and 4000 miles ago and the PCV was totally sludged. Don't have any idea if it had ever been changed. I was able to clean it to my satisfaction so didn't change it, but will do so on the next OC. There was considerable sludge building inside the valve cover, but the top of the head looked fairly clean. I put in 4.5 qts. of Formula Shell 10W30 and 5 oz. of LC20. I'll be doing 1 year OCI's starting in September, probably be less then 2000 miles of the most severe possable service, just back and forth to the store and her doctor.
it uses a straight metal pcv that screws into the intake manifold.
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