Changed my Spark plugs today
- Thread starter ZZman
- Start date
Great job and right on time! 
Betcha she has a smooth as silk idle right now...
I think those OE Motorcrafts are NGK Laser Iridium. Either way, they look good 
However, the IX will not last as long as the Laser.
However, the IX will not last as long as the Laser.
Why did you use anti-seize?
NGK Spark Plugs does not recommend using anti-seize on their spark plugs, as their trivalent plating provides corrosion resistance and acts as a lubricant. Using anti-seize can alter the correct torque values, potentially leading to over-tightening, and can damage the spark plug or the cylinder head.
NGK Spark Plugs does not recommend using anti-seize on their spark plugs, as their trivalent plating provides corrosion resistance and acts as a lubricant. Using anti-seize can alter the correct torque values, potentially leading to over-tightening, and can damage the spark plug or the cylinder head.
Plugs look good and uniform. Good change.
The never ending debate! Right up there with solder vs. crimps!13.00 at Auto one. Would have been cheaper at Rockauto but didn't want to wait.
Just being careful. Never knew they didn't recommend it. I don't use torque specs for most things. I just snug things down.
Thanks for the details, Not bad. As you well know some of these FoMoCo are known to be Denso or NGK anyways. RockAuto has a lousy return set-up but I've ordered some things but tend to avoid it if possible.
Typically, it's not recommended but I did use some anti-seize on my glow plugs in the F-350. I learned a lesson when it came time to remove the old 225k mile glow plugs, from my old 1995 7.3L F-250, they all snapped in half & required the repair shop to remove the heads. So long as you're not leaving them in for that long they'll be fine w/o it.
4wd
$50 site donor 2026
Cool ! But, get her some bigger gloves
A tiny wisp of antiseize and torque to the lower range.... Yup.
Iridiums always say they are vehicle specific pre-gapped. That's not true. They also need the gap checked, and adjusted as needed prior to installation. Just don't touch the center electrode. Very brittle. Bend the ground with a small vice grip, and tap down to correct gap. I've always used anti-seize on them, just a q-tip worth, and never had a problem. Don't torque them either, just snug them down. Over the years, I've learned how far to snug. Their good for 100K IMO, sometimes more depending on engine condition.
So, you -
1. Bend the electrode
2. Use anti seize
3. Don’t torque them
That about right?
When the plug manufacturer says:
1. Don’t adjust the gap
2. Don’t use antiseize
3. Torque to proper spec
Honestly a very light dab of anti-seize isn't going to hurt much. Just trim back the torque a 1-2 ft lbs. Altering torque values usually involves a blob of grease used. While a torque wrench is ideal spark plugs are low torque. Most people in this forum have swapped spark plugs in vehicles, mowers, trimmers with a plain old wrench with zero issues. Give this guy a break!
I've had Iridiums that were far from the correct gap, and the vehicles came with OEM Iridium, which I always put back. Maybe they got damaged during shipping or whatever, or weren't gapped vehicle specific in the first place. So, I gap them vehicle specific and use a dab of anti-seize. No torque wrench. Been changing plugs since the 70's and never messed up a head. Tomato / Tomatto
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