Question about anti-seize on spark plugs?

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boostedtsiawd

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I had ngk dbl platinum spark plugs installed and then i got home and read on ngk is website not to use anti-sieze so Im not happy that the mechanic used anti-sieze on the plug threads even though it was just a lil dab on each and but he hand tighten them which is a good thing at least.

Ngk website says=Applying anti-seize to the threads of spark plugs that have a metal plating allows the installer to mistakenly over-tighten the spark plug in the cylinder head; This stretches and fatigues the threads of the spark plugs, causing a much higher probability that the plug will break during installation or in some cases upon removal.

I hope all is good for me :(:(:(:(:(:(
 
I suppose we could have another multi-page discussion about anti-seize on spark plugs, but it won't matter. The anti-seize is already there and if you wanted to clean it off that would be a difficult thing to do at this point. If you're not driving a Ford or a Toyota and you're not towing or racing with this thing it won't likely make any difference in real world use.
 
I know it's your prized possession but provided that your mech did it (anti-seize) carefully, there's really nothing to worry about.

You also have to thing of it this way: all NTK/Denso OE O2 sensors came pre-lubed with anti-seize on their threads already (so as to thread it into the exhaust component holes), so granted there's no over-doing it (extra dabs getting close to the electrodes, etc.), there should not be too much concerns.

Sleep well at nite, ma friend.

Q.
 
That statement by NGk is simply a lawyer statement to remove blame from the company if you are an idiot and use way too much torque. Also, NGk plugs have a good rep for build quality. I have never heard of one snapping in half like I have for other brands (ironically because the plugs had been left in too long without the use of anti-seize)
I have had multiple sets of NGKs in my Toyota, Honda, and Ford at full torque with anti-seize and have never had an issue. If I have noticed anything, it's that they always come out easily, especially if the engine is still warm.
 
Too much AS can also alter the heat transfer of the plug to the head, and change the heat range - it can run too hot.

But your mechanic was being careful and preventative - you'll be just fine.
 
Originally Posted By: boostedtsiawd
its a 1986 toyota cressida 2.8 with 156hp so i will not be racing or towing this car.


It's a Toyota, but it's not one of the engines that reject plugs. You're cool.
 
just a small dab on the threads. NGK doesn't want people to coat the threads and then the antiseize makes its way to the electrode and creates misfires and fouling.

I antiseize everything. never have broken a thread in 25 years.
 
My Caravan specifies Champion or NGK plugs. Both recommend not to use anti seize. Yet, my factory service manual DOES recommend to use anti seize.
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This NGK bulletin http://www.ngkplugpro.ca/content/contentfiles/pdf/NGKSP-0907-1R-Anti-SeizeonSparkPlugs.pdf recommends no anti seize on "shiny, plated spark plugs", but DOES recommend anti seize on plain steel, non plated plugs. So, if the "bad" effects of anti seize can be avoided in one scenario, why not the other?
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This difference of opinion will never be resolved, but I am gently being tugged to the no anti seize camp now that all mfg. seem to state this. Next plug change will be interesting.
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but isnt it bad to change the plugs when the engine is warm cause i pulled into the shop garage and 10min later they changed the plugs?
 
Originally Posted By: boostedtsiawd
but isnt it bad to change the plugs when the engine is warm cause i pulled into the shop garage and 10min later they changed the plugs?


The FSM for my '92 Lumina specifically states to remove the plugs when the engine is cold in order to avoid thread damage (aluminum heads). I think it also states this on the underhood emissions sticker on the radiator support.

I really don't think it matters much hot or cold with a cast iron head. I change plugs when the engine is cold regardless of head material. I just don't like getting my fingers burned.

I also use anti-sieze on the threads. I don't use the paste-type though. I use the graphite type.
 
To the OP-

Perform a search and you'll find a bunch of threads on this topic. The same arguments are usually rehashed in all the threads.

I personally use a little dab of the silver kind, even though NGK (my plug of choice) doesn't recommend it.
 
It's easy to get too much anti-seize on the spark plug threads by applying with it your finger,
but applying it with an acid brush allows you to apply a very light film right into the threads.

503AcidBrushes.jpg
 
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
It's easy to get too much anti-seize on the spark plug threads by applying with it your finger,
but applying it with an acid brush allows you to apply a very light film right into the threads.


Dude, you need to get some 60 grit sandpaper and start working on those fingers. I mean, seriously, they must be like salamis. Get them down to keilbasa size and you'll be able to get away with skipping the brush.
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Too much AS can also alter the heat transfer of the plug to the head, and change the heat range - it can run too hot.
I can't imagine any scientific analysis that would support that suggestion. The AS is not going to keep the threads from touching.
 
Originally Posted By: yonyon

Dude, you need to get some 60 grit sandpaper and start working on those fingers. I mean, seriously, they must be like salamis. Get them down to keilbasa size and you'll be able to get away with skipping the brush.


I use anti-seize all the time on every thing. From my extensive experience with it, the human finger
(no matter what size) cannot apply anti-zeize at precise quantities as well as an acid brush can.
 
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