Wipe on some oil and wipe off almost all of it.
Using anti-seize on spark plugs or not
- Thread starter Electromotive
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I do on all plugs. But that comes from tractor work where 30 year old plugs are frozen in ...
I always use it on the 300. I don’t on the newer stuff.
I tend to use a copper grease (light application of course) as the organic compounds flash off over time the copper remains (and provides a good electrical contact!!) As the copper is soft when it comes time to get them out for inspection, it's a very easy affair. I never install a bolt (spark plug) un-lubricated. I just use normal grease on non electrical conductive or non neat affected components
Copper grease is your best choice vs other metallic based anti-seize products, as copper is less reactive than both Aluminium and cast iron. Nickel and Zinc anti-seize products 'may' undergo a galvanic reaction, (more likely on iron head engines.)
Regards
Jordan
Copper grease is your best choice vs other metallic based anti-seize products, as copper is less reactive than both Aluminium and cast iron. Nickel and Zinc anti-seize products 'may' undergo a galvanic reaction, (more likely on iron head engines.)
Regards
Jordan
Originally Posted By: Electromotive
(NGK recommends not using anti-seize when installing plugs)
Theres your answer
(NGK recommends not using anti-seize when installing plugs)
Theres your answer
over many forums I keep seeing this question of anti-sieze on spark plugs being asked..
here's something to think about...
I had a tough time removing the spark plugs on the civic I inherited, but I went slow going back n forth to break them free. once I got them out I discovered lots of carbon in the threads. Ran a spark plug chaser down there, going slow. I did clean all the threads out of the aluminum alloy head. Since it's a chaser, didn't remove any material just the carbon/junk out of the threads.
So how does the spark plug thread in now? SMOOTH! No fighting it, when it gets finger tight, snug it with the wrench.
Now what I'm getting at.. maybe people are using or wanting to use anti-sieze because they aren't getting a smooth threading action, that it's binding. They think by using anti-sieze that it will help lube up the threads and make it easier to thread.
But how about that there could just be carbon/junk in the threads and use a spark plug thread chaser instead to clean it out, then see how easy it is to thread the plug without anti-sieze!
here's something to think about...
I had a tough time removing the spark plugs on the civic I inherited, but I went slow going back n forth to break them free. once I got them out I discovered lots of carbon in the threads. Ran a spark plug chaser down there, going slow. I did clean all the threads out of the aluminum alloy head. Since it's a chaser, didn't remove any material just the carbon/junk out of the threads.
So how does the spark plug thread in now? SMOOTH! No fighting it, when it gets finger tight, snug it with the wrench.
Now what I'm getting at.. maybe people are using or wanting to use anti-sieze because they aren't getting a smooth threading action, that it's binding. They think by using anti-sieze that it will help lube up the threads and make it easier to thread.
But how about that there could just be carbon/junk in the threads and use a spark plug thread chaser instead to clean it out, then see how easy it is to thread the plug without anti-sieze!
I spray little WD-40 to clean the threaded plug holes and lubricate them. And just a little anti-seize on the NGK/Denso/Autolite plugs.
Always thread them in by hand until they seat. Then torque 'em to a little under spec, due to the lubrication.
NGK/Denso on the Acura, Hondas and Tundra.
Autolites on the 65 4-4-2 and 68 L36 Corvette Roadster.
Always thread them in by hand until they seat. Then torque 'em to a little under spec, due to the lubrication.
NGK/Denso on the Acura, Hondas and Tundra.
Autolites on the 65 4-4-2 and 68 L36 Corvette Roadster.
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