Change SAE 30 for winter or not?

[Chris142]

I've got SAE30 Rotella in my 1973 IHC pickup which is what the manual says to use down to 32F.

I don't drive it much and it's been below 32F reciently and will get even colder in February. But those times that I do start it it's going to be 32F or colder.

I've got tons of Delvac 15w40 as well as various 10w40's. Leave the SAE30 in or drain and run 15w40 or 10w40?

Last winter we had a few single digit temps but thats pretty rare.

 

[Audi Junkie]

30 and 15w-40 are close in visc down to a little below freezing. Check the visc graph and shoot for 5000cSt as a cold visc.

 

[Chris142]

I*'ve looked at that chart many times and I'm afraid that it makes no sense to me

 

[bobfather99]

Well, since you have plenty of oil on hand, why not play it safe and change it out??

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: bobfather99
Well, since you have plenty of oil on hand, why not play it safe and change it out??
I really like the Rotella SAE30 and I feel that it's a great choice for this engine. They tend to wear cam lobes on the IHC forums.

I do have plenty of SLOB I could put in with a thinner oil.

 

[PT1]

Just use a good 10w30 and you will be fine.

 

[defektes]

Stick with the 30, if you dont drive it much then it will be fine. Just dont go balls out as soon as you start her up in the mornings lol.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Chris142 - What engine/model is in your IHC pickup?

 

[Chris142]

Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
Chris142 - What engine/model is in your IHC pickup?
392IHC. I found one in the local pic a part that was in running condition so I just rebuilt it last summer before I installed it.

Redneck engine test.



This is what it looked like inside. It was a virgin. 7-72 date codes on the bearings and the original style headgaskets. Rings were worn some as was the cam and cam bearings but it still probly would have ran for years as it was.

Breaking in the cam. 2000+rpm for 30 minutes.

 

[Doug Hillary]

Hi,
Chris142 - These were good engines - still are! They were popular in IH three axle tippers etc.

In OZ 10W-40 or 15W-40 were popular lubricants in these engines. If I was you I would change to one of these viscosities

 

[wgtoys]

Oil is cheap. I would run the 10W-40 in the winter.

 

[Audi Junkie]

Put some in the freezer. I have, it ain't pretty.

 

[mechtech2]

Straight 30 is obsolete.
Don't worry about what is spec'd for that engine. Modern oils were not invented at the time of their printing.
5-30, 10-30, and straight 30 are the same at operating temps[virtually].
The 5-30 is thinner when it's cold out, and this is a very good thing. It is still 10-20 times thicker than when hot.

 

[jorton]

omg it's almost 1am. I think I'll go have another smoke and come back and look at this. CHEERS!

 

[jorton]

I suggest 10w-30 that's not energy conserving. These energy conserving oils have a stamp on the bottle that says "For Gasoline Engines". You don't want that one because it thins to a 5w-30 after about 1500 miles of normal use. 2 examples of 10w-30 that aren't energy conserving I can think of are Quaker State High mileage, and Mobil 1 High Mileage. I would use one of these in that International motor.

 

[milwaukee]

I would use 10w-30 Rotella.

 

[Zaedock]

I've done the old 0* freezer test on my Delo SAE30 and it still moved. The Delo's pour point is -24*F though. The Rotella SAE30's is 0*F. I've started one of my Jeeps with the Delo at/below freezing and it flowed from the rockers.

I think you would be fine as long as you don't start it much lower than freezing.

 

[bubbatime]

Maxlife 10w30 or Rotella 15w40 would be my pick.

 

[coffee]

Rotella 5w40 might be a good option for you as well if it is available for you.

 

[Drew99GT]

Chris, don't you have some Chevron 10w-40? I'd use that; it has 200 ppm more phosphorous then regular SM/GF-4 oils.