ThanksIf the OP is new to this, a pan drop is likely smarter as only the pan bolts and gasket are involved.
Turning a rookie loose on cooling line clips might be too involved. Besides, a pan drop is fast enough and a great cheaper first step.
If the fluid drains black and disgusting, the replaced fluid will nibble away at the remaining dirt while the OP gathers his jugs and case of fluid for a lengthy pump-out.
Also, assuming the unit hasn't been abused, fluid 120K old won't be too horrible in the first place.
You change part of the fluid to allow the new stuff to hopefully gently clean away accumulated debris & valve body stuff; completely changing 100% may knock pieces loose that can impede solenoids or even the filter pickup. The goal is to restore full functionality without causing damage.Full flush, all at once, out a cooler line. Drain pan, refill, then start and pull a line so as to pump one quart out. Refill with one quart, repeat until clean fluid comes out. Why waste time on repeated drains?
Dropping the pan might be nice, to see the magnets, not sure how necessary though.
120k isn’t all that high miles…
In my last car my repair shop said they couldn’t do it.Please don't let this thread die.
Get back to us after you contact the dealer.
We've heard plenty of stories of dealerships turning down transmission fluid jobs as they fear the customer is setting them up for a dishonest claim.
Why a dealership?
So if you had an engine that was overdue on the oil change, you would change one quart at a time?You change part of the fluid to allow the new stuff to hopefully gently clean away accumulated debris & valve body stuff; completely changing 100% may knock pieces loose that can impede solenoids or even the filter pickup. The goal is to restore full functionality without causing damage.
What was your last car?In my last car my repair shop said they couldn’t do it.
I’ll ask about this car.