Change-Flush transmission fluid at 120k

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Oct 12, 2020
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2011 Toyota camry V6 with 120,000
hot climate
Would you change or flush the transmission fluid
(A car fax doesn’t show that it’s ever been done)

Thanks
 
Full flush, all at once, out a cooler line. Drain pan, refill, then start and pull a line so as to pump one quart out. Refill with one quart, repeat until clean fluid comes out. Why waste time on repeated drains?

Dropping the pan might be nice, to see the magnets, not sure how necessary though.

120k isn’t all that high miles…
 
I have done it both ways, a 3X3 and removed the cooler line and done it that way...
On a very neglected system I would do an initial pan drop filter replacement, etc... but if its only 120K / 10 years I think a a slow flush via the cooler line would work very well in that case.
I agree 120K is not alot of miles.
 
If the OP is new to this, a pan drop is likely smarter as only the pan bolts and gasket are involved.

Turning a rookie loose on cooling line clips might be too involved. Besides, a pan drop is fast enough and a great cheaper first step.
If the fluid drains black and disgusting, the replaced fluid will nibble away at the remaining dirt while the OP gathers his jugs and case of fluid for a lengthy pump-out.

Also, assuming the unit hasn't been abused, fluid 120K old won't be too horrible in the first place.
 
If the OP is new to this, a pan drop is likely smarter as only the pan bolts and gasket are involved.

Turning a rookie loose on cooling line clips might be too involved. Besides, a pan drop is fast enough and a great cheaper first step.
If the fluid drains black and disgusting, the replaced fluid will nibble away at the remaining dirt while the OP gathers his jugs and case of fluid for a lengthy pump-out.

Also, assuming the unit hasn't been abused, fluid 120K old won't be too horrible in the first place.
Thanks
Just to clarify
This would be a dealer job
I now live in a highrise and I would not be doing this myself
 
I believe most times the dealer "flushes" the system and does not drop a pan or replace the filter... unless they are trying to fix an issue or you specifically ask for it...

The "filter" in most automatics is more like a strainer anyway so it's not a fine filter that clogs in the traditional sense.
 
Please don't let this thread die.
Get back to us after you contact the dealer.
We've heard plenty of stories of dealerships turning down transmission fluid jobs as they fear the customer is setting them up for a dishonest claim.

Why a dealership?
 
Full flush, all at once, out a cooler line. Drain pan, refill, then start and pull a line so as to pump one quart out. Refill with one quart, repeat until clean fluid comes out. Why waste time on repeated drains?

Dropping the pan might be nice, to see the magnets, not sure how necessary though.

120k isn’t all that high miles…
You change part of the fluid to allow the new stuff to hopefully gently clean away accumulated debris & valve body stuff; completely changing 100% may knock pieces loose that can impede solenoids or even the filter pickup. The goal is to restore full functionality without causing damage.
 
Please don't let this thread die.
Get back to us after you contact the dealer.
We've heard plenty of stories of dealerships turning down transmission fluid jobs as they fear the customer is setting them up for a dishonest claim.

Why a dealership?
In my last car my repair shop said they couldn’t do it.
I’ll ask about this car.
 
You change part of the fluid to allow the new stuff to hopefully gently clean away accumulated debris & valve body stuff; completely changing 100% may knock pieces loose that can impede solenoids or even the filter pickup. The goal is to restore full functionality without causing damage.
So if you had an engine that was overdue on the oil change, you would change one quart at a time?

There is no complaint about issues, so how do we know that any crud has built up? that we should be worried about loosening up? At 120k all the material may well be held in suspension at this time—this trans likely has a rock catcher, drop the pan to see if there is debris, but I think nothing will be seen.

I’ve watched a few videos of trans teardowns, and outside of carnage, I’m not sure I have seen anything other than dirty fluid? not piles of deposits lurking in corners, waiting to come loose.

Yet on car engines we’ve all seen plenty of sludge, yet no one thinks twice about full oil changes and aggressive cleaners. I get it, different applications with different parts, but I don’t see the need to be careful. Those clutches are wear items and any failure after atf change I suspect is more related to old fluid than new.
 
Drop pan.
Change filter.
Clean magnets.
Add additional magnets per the 4cyl TSB even though a V6.
Button it all up, refill, check level at proper temp, and keep driving.
If all is well after a few months, 5k miles... whenever, I would then cooler line exchange 2 gallons.

I would also have no issue with doing a complete cooler line flush and then a filter change.

Great transmission after the initial bugs from 2007/8 were worked out. Toyotaisin takes a couple years to get work the hardware/software bugs beaten out of their new transmissions. Your 2011 should be a good unit. My 2011 and 2016 U660 definitely are great.
 
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