Central AC - How long should I wait after turning on breaker?

No it's not necessary. I do it because I just don't like the idea of something being energized outside during winter that is going to just sit there unused for six straight months.

Also makes it safer for the scrap metal thieves that will steal your outdoor unit. Wouldn't want them to electrocute themselves and sue you and win.
 
My Amp-clamp will measure lower than that. It was measuring around .6 of an Amp. X 118 V on that side of the 236 VAC going into it, that's how I came up with 70 Watts. Pretty sure I did it when it was cold outside so it might have an internal thermal switch. I have not checked it when ambient temps were warm. It's also a lot older probably than yours. 1997. Anyway looks like you found your answer!
Ed, I think the entire (nominal) 240 V would apply to your power calculation, so that would be more like 140 W. That would add up fast.

I need to check the unit in a few months after it's shut down for the season. If there is a thermostatically controlled heater, it would run a lot here at -35 C. If so, I'll continue to flip the breaker off for the winter.

I wish my clamp-on meter had that low range, but can't complain - paid $11 for it quite a few years ago.

Also makes it safer for the scrap metal thieves that will steal your outdoor unit. Wouldn't want them to electrocute themselves and sue you and win.
Gah! Do thieves actually go after AC units now? Are they the new catalytic convertors? The possibility had never occurred to me.
 
Gah! Do thieves actually go after AC units now? Are they the new catalytic convertors? The possibility had never occurred to me.
Yep… they go after the copper. Can’t speak for everyone else, but my newer York uses an all aluminum micro channel style coil vs copper tubes with aluminum fins, which I hope is a deterrent.
 
I need to check the unit in a few months after it's shut down for the season. If there is a thermostatically controlled heater, it would run a lot here at -35 C. If so, I'll continue to flip the breaker off for the winter.

You can open the electrical wiring cover on the unit and look to see if there are two smaller gauge wires going to the compressor from the contactor. Normally there are only 3 and they are heavy-gauge wires. If there are two additional smaller (18AWG or so) wires going to the compressor then it does have a heater. You might even be able to see this looking down from the top.

Gah! Do thieves actually go after AC units now? Are they the new catalytic convertors? The possibility had never occurred to me.

They sure do.
 
Crankcase oil heaters are not so much to warm the oil its for driving out any refrigerant from the oil to keep it from foaming up at startup. Not all compressors have heaters need to look on the wiring diagram. And if it's a.few years old it may be bad need to check it with a clamp on amp meter. Most residential compressors are 50 watts. 4 hours when its warm out side.
 
https://www.acfurnaceparts.com/Service Manuals/13ACD.pdf

Per the linked document, a crankcase heater is optional.

My inspection was inconclusive - Rhino conduit containing the three power conductors (240 Vac) runs alongside a small BN cable which almost certainly carries the low-voltage (24 Vac) control conductors. The Rhino conduit enters and exits the disconnect switch on the outside wall of the house. The run of control cable is continuous.

Per Pg 12 of the linked document, the wiring to the crankcase heater (if present) is all internal - I'm not curious enough to start taking things apart to confirm the presence of a heater.

If there is a crankcase heater, it is thermostatically controlled. I will leave the breaker on this coming autumn, and check for current again. Once it gets cold out, the heater, if present, should run. This is only for my own curiosity, though.

After determining whether or not there's a crankcase heater, I'll continue to flip the breaker off after cooling is no longer required, and will turn it on again at least 24 hours before I think we'll want to run the AC.

Doing so does no harm, and might do some good.

Thanks, everyone, for your contributions.
 
Per Pg 12 of the linked document, the wiring to the crankcase heater (if present) is all internal - I'm not curious enough to start taking things apart to confirm the presence of a heater.

If you can see the compressor through the top of the unit, the crankcase heater will look like a big hose clamp around the compressor.
 

Attachments

  • crankcaseheat.webp
    crankcaseheat.webp
    9.6 KB · Views: 15
Back
Top Bottom