Cavity wax spraying?

That one will run alot.. the high end is only 115psi so it has almost no useable headroom after it kicks off.

150psi or at least 135psi would be better.

You guys get better portable compressors because 230v is available.

all our small stuff here is 115v unless its specialty equipment
 
My setup for Noxudol 700 and 300:

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I really like aerosol cans with super thin wands for spraying door drainage holes.
My Makita compressor is undersized for shown spraying gun (it's getting somewhat hot) however I had no problems completing my two cars this summer.
 
I don’t know if they have Mike Sanders in the United States, but this stuff is popular with some here in Germany. I once had a Lada Niva that I treated with Mike Sanders wax - sprayed in body cavities and undercarriage. You have to heat it (liquify) before you can spray it, but once sprayed on it sticks pretty well.

I tell you, you want a product that creeps.
 
My setup for Noxudol 700 and 300:

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I really like aerosol cans with super thin wands for spraying door drainage holes.
My Makita compressor is undersized for shown spraying gun (it's getting somewhat hot) however I had no problems completing my two cars this summer.
Thanks for the feedback. Iv just ordered 5 of those 1L noxudol 700 cans hopefully that's enough to do the sills and doors of the car.
I will get a small compressor in the spring and get the job done. Don't mind it running a lot since I'm not using the compressor all day in a shop it's just gonna be used probably 3 days a year for the one year then maybe one day a year for any top up work.
If anyone can recommend a small cheapish compressor I should get then I'm open to suggestions. Will look for higher pressure ones but most of these small ones in the UK seem to be around 115psi
 
Holy smokes 5 ltr is enough to do 2+ cars depending on size with the wand. No problem, plenty for touch ups. On tip though is to warm the 1 ltr cans in a bucket with hot tap water for 20 min before spraying, you get a much more atomized spray that goes further.
 
I don't have a compressor yet but looking to get one. Space is an issue for me so the smaller the better. From the room I have left in the shed a 24L compressor will fit and possibly a 50L but need to get it's measurements before committing.
I was looking at something like this:
https://www.sgs-engineering.com/sc24h-24-litre-high-flow-air-compressor-starter-kit
Which seems to be compact enough. Will be enough for cavity wax spraying though is the question
I would think twice about a compressor. I have a 60 gallon 5 hp two stage. But with cordless tools I seldom use it. I watch Dave's Auto YT and never see then use a pneumatic took.
 
I would think twice about a compressor. I have a 60 gallon 5 hp two stage. But with cordless tools I seldom use it. I watch Dave's Auto YT and never see then use a pneumatic took.
I don't have any cordless tools, I do have a 230v corded impact gun that I used once to take crank pulley off for timing belt job it's more hassle to get it out and set it up with extension cable for doing wheel swaps.
The kiddo watches the YouTube videos of people making tamiya car models and using sprayer to paint them so he wants to get in on that too which makes me think that the air compressor can double up as a birthday gift so saves cash on that too.
Just remembered the one cordless drill I have was a battery powered 14v one which had a dead battery so I converted it to run with cables off a car battery/jump pack. Tools with battery are not used often enough for me so they end up with dead batteries long before their time.
 
Sealey SG18 and a small 50 litre 1.5hp compressor here. Works just fine and never have to play 'catch-up' with the compressor.

The SG18 is a fantastic bit of kit and 'aerosols' really well. I often spray in a void and you can see a 'mist' of product flying out of holes in the void 2-3 meters away from where the nozzle is.
 
Sealey SG18 and a small 50 litre 1.5hp compressor here. Works just fine and never have to play 'catch-up' with the compressor.

The SG18 is a fantastic bit of kit and 'aerosols' really well. I often spray in a void and you can see a 'mist' of product flying out of holes in the void 2-3 meters away from where the nozzle is.
Been looking at that sg18 sprayer, does that use the Venturi effect to suck up the wax from the bottle or is it a different system where it pressurises the bottle?
 
I’m a believer in cosmoline wax. CRC Heavy Duty Corrosion inhibitor in an aerosol can with an extension wand, or if you want to shoot it from a spray gun check out the cosmolinedirect.com website for sprayable versions of cosmoline.
 
Worked at a couple GM dealers in the 80s. First one was Chev/Cad that had Vesco black tar-based rust-proofing.
Along with another option of a GM GoodWrench product that was wax-based that "crept"
So, several customers would have our guy put the wax in the doors, fenders, cavities, etc.
Then spray tar over everything under vehicle like a mad-man!
Some people didn't want the added $$ for the GM wax.
So, our guy was taught to take a punch to set a dimple for a drill.
THAT would "break" the paint, causing a rust spot under the plug in a couple years, OOPS!
The other dealer was Oldsmobile, didn't do any of that, sent it out to TuffKote Dinol.
 
The easiest way on many car to get at the inside of the rocker panels is to take the sill plates off, there is usually plenty of holes and oblongs to get a wand in.
I use Fluid Film in aerosol cans and remove door striker bolts to get into body cavities, as well as removing tail lights and spraying in drains. 5 cans does an initial treatment and 2-3 takes care of it after that. I don’t spray in all the body cavities after the first treatment, rather, just in the drains and in the doglegs. The rest is the underbody.

My son’s 00 Camry has very little rust underneath, but developed rust on the roof at the windshield that will be its demise. Compared to his wife’s 05 Accord that never got FF, it’s night and day different.

I need to switch to another product though as my wife cannot stand the smell of FF and is very angry with me when I do the pre-winter treatment.

I found using a good Hybrid Ceramic wax keeps the outer body much cleaner as well, reducing my inner drive to have to wash the cars all the time in the winter. That helps with the longevity of the FF. I wash with a wand and don’t do the underbody until winter is over, or take advantage of a warm day (35F) to hand wash
 
I use Fluid Film in aerosol cans and remove door striker bolts to get into body cavities, as well as removing tail lights and spraying in drains. 5 cans does an initial treatment and 2-3 takes care of it after that. I don’t spray in all the body cavities after the first treatment, rather, just in the drains and in the doglegs. The rest is the underbody.

My son’s 00 Camry has very little rust underneath, but developed rust on the roof at the windshield that will be its demise. Compared to his wife’s 05 Accord that never got FF, it’s night and day different.

I need to switch to another product though as my wife cannot stand the smell of FF and is very angry with me when I do the pre-winter treatment.

I found using a good Hybrid Ceramic wax keeps the outer body much cleaner as well, reducing my inner drive to have to wash the cars all the time in the winter. That helps with the longevity of the FF. I wash with a wand and don’t do the underbody until winter is over, or take advantage of a warm day (35F) to hand wash
Once you use oil, you’re pretty much committed. You can’t use wax unless you remove all of the oil and grime. You could try woolwax. It’s actually not a wax. It’s an oil that’s thicker than fluid film. Doesn’t smell as much they say.
 
Once you use oil, you’re pretty much committed. You can’t use wax unless you remove all of the oil and grime. You could try woolwax. It’s actually not a wax. It’s an oil that’s thicker than fluid film. Doesn’t smell as much they say.


To be pedantic, both woolwax and fluid film actually ARE technically waxes. They just remain viscous instead of hard.
 
To be pedantic, both woolwax and fluid film actually ARE technically waxes. They just remain viscous instead of hard.
I've actually been wondering about that all weekend. Thanks for clarifying.

It's amazing how Fluid Film creeps long after application. My son never washes his Camry and the bottoms of the doors turned very black, and it kept creeping along the outdoor door sheet metal.
 
Getting worried about buying an air compressor been reading stories of how the tanks can blow up. Is this a common issue?
 
Getting worried about buying an air compressor been reading stories of how the tanks can blow up. Is this a common issue?
on old neglected rusty ones maybe.
there is an overpressure safety valve that will pop and let out air if its too high pressure for any reason.
 
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