This blend nonsense is "overthinking" at its worst...
Just use a jug of appropriate name brand oil and be done with it.
Just use a jug of appropriate name brand oil and be done with it.
Caterham Blend Revisited: Best Modern Synthetic Oil In GDI Engines ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
- Start date
- Status
It's not "blending"...it's "mixing".
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
If you are that worried about the Theta II issue, are you running your OCI longer than the manual recommends for severe service? It appears you are not. Just sayin.....
BTW, I run my OCI at the severe service interval of 3750 miles, and my engine doesn't have the issues the Theta II does. But it is a Hyundai engine, so I am being extra careful, and my average speed is 26-27 MPH, so it seems reasonable to believe I am operating under severe service conditions anyway.
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
If you are that worried about the Theta II issue, are you running your OCI longer than the manual recommends for severe service? It appears you are not. Just sayin.....
BTW, I run my OCI at the severe service interval of 3750 miles, and my engine doesn't have the issues the Theta II does. But it is a Hyundai engine, so I am being extra careful, and my average speed is 26-27 MPH, so it seems reasonable to believe I am operating under severe service conditions anyway.
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
My sister in law lost the engine on her KIA CUV 2 months ago. Dont know if she got it back yet. They gave hear a Sorento loaner.
Note that I had oiling problems using the pretty, polished stainless crimp a trimmed korean hyundia filter - though I had it on the "incorrect - but correct application" Nissan 2.5. Same "Universal Asian minus Toyota" spec. Had to pull it 2 days later. Now I wonder. Suzuki had this problem in the 90's with filters, then I had this problem with Toyota Thai Denso in the mid 2000's, then recently with Nissan made in China filters. Likely unrelated and not causal - but I'd be cautious.
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
My sister in law lost the engine on her KIA CUV 2 months ago. Dont know if she got it back yet. They gave hear a Sorento loaner.
Note that I had oiling problems using the pretty, polished stainless crimp a trimmed korean hyundia filter - though I had it on the "incorrect - but correct application" Nissan 2.5. Same "Universal Asian minus Toyota" spec. Had to pull it 2 days later. Now I wonder. Suzuki had this problem in the 90's with filters, then I had this problem with Toyota Thai Denso in the mid 2000's, then recently with Nissan made in China filters. Likely unrelated and not causal - but I'd be cautious.
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Shannow
It's not "blending"...it's "mixing".
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
A syn-BLEND is a simple mix of two oils from the same manufacturer. Why parse the two words? Again, more needless overthinking.
(Of course do I realize people who want to "play chemist" needs this nonsense to feel intelligent somehow)
It's not "blending"...it's "mixing".
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
A syn-BLEND is a simple mix of two oils from the same manufacturer. Why parse the two words? Again, more needless overthinking.
(Of course do I realize people who want to "play chemist" needs this nonsense to feel intelligent somehow)
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by Shannow
It's not "blending"...it's "mixing".
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
A syn-BLEND is a simple mix of two oils from the same manufacturer. Why parse the two words? Again, more needless overthinking.
(Of course do I realize people who want to "play chemist" needs this nonsense to feel intelligent somehow)
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
Originally Posted by Shannow
It's not "blending"...it's "mixing".
Blenders use a bunch of raw materials, and blending charts and guides to create an oil in a predicatble manner, then either subject it to the full suite of tests, or use a bunch of pre-approved items to make a brew (e.g. an aproved/tested basestock, and a full additve package from the additive companies).
Mixers take two fully compliant, finished oils...and "mix them"...as such there are zero guarantees that the oil meets any of the standards/tests that the individual oils met in their virgin state.
A syn-BLEND is a simple mix of two oils from the same manufacturer. Why parse the two words? Again, more needless overthinking.
(Of course do I realize people who want to "play chemist" needs this nonsense to feel intelligent somehow)
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
Originally Posted by wemay
If the Sonata is still under warranty, you can try Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30.
It still an API SN Plus oil as well ACEA A3/B3, the HTHS is 3.5 and the viscosity is recommended by Hyundai. Or try what Garak does...a dual spec HDEO that will meet at least the SN requirements.
I'm thinking pretty hard about the HM M1 mentioned....I know somebody on here posted that its Noack loss was under 8% and that sounds quite reasonable for a synth in that grade, I just wish I knew where the info came from!
Valvoline HM/Maxlife 10W30 has a lower HTHS but also has a number of other appealing properties...haven't seen it at the WM closest to my house, though.
If the Sonata is still under warranty, you can try Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30.
It still an API SN Plus oil as well ACEA A3/B3, the HTHS is 3.5 and the viscosity is recommended by Hyundai. Or try what Garak does...a dual spec HDEO that will meet at least the SN requirements.
I'm thinking pretty hard about the HM M1 mentioned....I know somebody on here posted that its Noack loss was under 8% and that sounds quite reasonable for a synth in that grade, I just wish I knew where the info came from!
Valvoline HM/Maxlife 10W30 has a lower HTHS but also has a number of other appealing properties...haven't seen it at the WM closest to my house, though.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Originally Posted by Brigadier
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
If you are that worried about the Theta II issue, are you running your OCI longer than the manual recommends for severe service? It appears you are not. Just sayin.....
BTW, I run my OCI at the severe service interval of 3750 miles, and my engine doesn't have the issues the Theta II does. But it is a Hyundai engine, so I am being extra careful, and my average speed is 26-27 MPH, so it seems reasonable to believe I am operating under severe service conditions anyway.
Actually, I meant to say it looks like you ARE running a longer OCI than the book recommends for severe service.....
So why worry about the longevity of the engine, going to the effort of mixing oils, when you aren't even following the manual?
Originally Posted by ChrisD46
*I just threw out the Caterham Blend as a possibility as both M1 0W20 and 0W40 synthetic oils have a strong following ... As for "what am I smoking " ? Are you aware that Hyundai has set aside over $800 million on replacement engines for the 2.4L Theta II engines (2014 - through at least 2017) ? - This is more than an "occasional problem" and points to a bad design of the Theta II engine (connecting rod bearings go and grenade the engine) . Also of interest to note that in the new Hyundai engines work order it states 5W30 oil and not 5W20 to be used in replacement engine fills at the dealer ... As for me , I use a 5W30 synthetic D1 / Gen 2 SN+ rated oil in my 2017 Sonata , keep it filled to "F" on the dipstick with no more than a 5K mile OCI and then hope I don't encounter the "Hyundai Theta II Death Knock" ... As for selling the Sonata GDI - the resale value has absolutely plummeted worse than the stock market of 2008 (or more recently from Oct. to Dec.) ... Lastly , why not at least explore or discuss the possible merits of a newer , better oil - blended or not ? ... As long as their is BITOG then such discussions can and have taken place - we can all choose not to participate - just say'n ...
If you are that worried about the Theta II issue, are you running your OCI longer than the manual recommends for severe service? It appears you are not. Just sayin.....
BTW, I run my OCI at the severe service interval of 3750 miles, and my engine doesn't have the issues the Theta II does. But it is a Hyundai engine, so I am being extra careful, and my average speed is 26-27 MPH, so it seems reasonable to believe I am operating under severe service conditions anyway.
Actually, I meant to say it looks like you ARE running a longer OCI than the book recommends for severe service.....
So why worry about the longevity of the engine, going to the effort of mixing oils, when you aren't even following the manual?
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Better believe it. I called the 1-800 number of two different mfg's and thats what they told me.
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Better believe it. I called the 1-800 number of two different mfg's and thats what they told me.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Better believe it. I called the 1-800 number of two different mfg's and thats what they told me.
You specifically asked them if they just mixed two fully formulated lubricants? Or was the question as to how much was synthetic versus conventional in the blend? Because those are two wildly different questions.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
I doubt the veracity of that claim. A "syn blend" is a fully formulated product designed to contain both conventional and synthetic base stocks. It is a purpose-blended lubricant, tested and validated the same as any other. SOPUS didn't create Gold by just mixing 50% PUP with 50% PYB for example.
You are right. Most mix their synthetic and conventional oils in a 20-80 ratio, or there about.
I honestly can't tell if you are being sarcastic or not
Better believe it. I called the 1-800 number of two different mfg's and thats what they told me.
You specifically asked them if they just mixed two fully formulated lubricants? Or was the question as to how much was synthetic versus conventional in the blend? Because those are two wildly different questions.
Their conventional and their synthetic are already "two fully formulated lubricants". All mfg's will produce their respective products in the most streamlined, economically advantageous manner they can.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
Originally Posted by Virtus_Probi
Originally Posted by wemay
If the Sonata is still under warranty, you can try Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30.
It still an API SN Plus oil as well ACEA A3/B3, the HTHS is 3.5 and the viscosity is recommended by Hyundai. Or try what Garak does...a dual spec HDEO that will meet at least the SN requirements.
I'm thinking pretty hard about the HM M1 mentioned....I know somebody on here posted that its Noack loss was under 8% and that sounds quite reasonable for a synth in that grade, I just wish I knew where the info came from!
Valvoline HM/Maxlife 10W30 has a lower HTHS but also has a number of other appealing properties...haven't seen it at the WM closest to my house, though.
Not being one to usually notice such things in the past, i must admit the 10W-30 M1HM seems to have made the 2.4L very smooth...at idele and on full throttle.
Originally Posted by wemay
If the Sonata is still under warranty, you can try Mobil1 High Mileage 10W-30.
It still an API SN Plus oil as well ACEA A3/B3, the HTHS is 3.5 and the viscosity is recommended by Hyundai. Or try what Garak does...a dual spec HDEO that will meet at least the SN requirements.
I'm thinking pretty hard about the HM M1 mentioned....I know somebody on here posted that its Noack loss was under 8% and that sounds quite reasonable for a synth in that grade, I just wish I knew where the info came from!
Valvoline HM/Maxlife 10W30 has a lower HTHS but also has a number of other appealing properties...haven't seen it at the WM closest to my house, though.
Not being one to usually notice such things in the past, i must admit the 10W-30 M1HM seems to have made the 2.4L very smooth...at idele and on full throttle.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Their conventional and their synthetic are already "two fully formulated lubricants". All mfg's will produce their respective products in the most streamlined, economically advantageous manner they can.
That didn't come remotely close to answering my question. It sounds like you are just assuming that this is how these lubricants are created because in your mind, that's how the economics of it work.
For example, Pennzoil Gold, which we recently discussed in another thread, is 70-90% GTL. That makes it a synthetic oil, sold as a blend. It's not a blend of PP and PYB, as there isn't even a PYB 0w-20 to blend with PP, and the ingredients don't align on the MSDS sheets either:
PG:
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-21028-31258-screen_shot_2019_03_27_at_12.41.16_pm.png "[Linked Image]")
VS PP:
![[Linked Image]](https://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/attachments/usergals/2019/03/full-21028-31259-screen_shot_2019_03_27_at_12.44.36_pm.png "[Linked Image]")
You cannot, while retaining all the certifications and approvals for an oil, just mix two of them together. Even just the base oil aspect of that is touched-on in the thread Shannow linked to.
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
Their conventional and their synthetic are already "two fully formulated lubricants". All mfg's will produce their respective products in the most streamlined, economically advantageous manner they can.
That didn't come remotely close to answering my question. It sounds like you are just assuming that this is how these lubricants are created because in your mind, that's how the economics of it work.
For example, Pennzoil Gold, which we recently discussed in another thread, is 70-90% GTL. That makes it a synthetic oil, sold as a blend. It's not a blend of PP and PYB, as there isn't even a PYB 0w-20 to blend with PP, and the ingredients don't align on the MSDS sheets either:
PG:
VS PP:
You cannot, while retaining all the certifications and approvals for an oil, just mix two of them together. Even just the base oil aspect of that is touched-on in the thread Shannow linked to.
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
wemay
Site Donor 2023
file:///C:/Users/wemay/Downloads/D6922.pdf
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Visual color determinations and observations are made
on an undiluted test oil specimen, along with six blends of the
same test oil that have been combined with specific reference
oils. The pour point is then determined for the undiluted test oil
specimen and the six blends. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to warm to room temperature.
Color determinations and observations are again made on the
undiluted test oil specimen and six blends. The undiluted test
oil specimen and six blends are heated to 232°C, then allowed
to cool to room temperature, and then stored at their pour point
temperatures for 18 to 24 h. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to thaw and a series of color
determinations and observations are made as they reach room
temperature. All data are recorded on a report form.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because
operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used
in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are
combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Visual color determinations and observations are made
on an undiluted test oil specimen, along with six blends of the
same test oil that have been combined with specific reference
oils. The pour point is then determined for the undiluted test oil
specimen and the six blends. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to warm to room temperature.
Color determinations and observations are again made on the
undiluted test oil specimen and six blends. The undiluted test
oil specimen and six blends are heated to 232°C, then allowed
to cool to room temperature, and then stored at their pour point
temperatures for 18 to 24 h. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to thaw and a series of color
determinations and observations are made as they reach room
temperature. All data are recorded on a report form.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because
operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used
in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are
combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by wemay
file:///C:/Users/wemay/Downloads/D6922.pdf
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Visual color determinations and observations are made
on an undiluted test oil specimen, along with six blends of the
same test oil that have been combined with specific reference
oils. The pour point is then determined for the undiluted test oil
specimen and the six blends. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to warm to room temperature.
Color determinations and observations are again made on the
undiluted test oil specimen and six blends. The undiluted test
oil specimen and six blends are heated to 232°C, then allowed
to cool to room temperature, and then stored at their pour point
temperatures for 18 to 24 h. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to thaw and a series of color
determinations and observations are made as they reach room
temperature. All data are recorded on a report form.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because
operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used
in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are
combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly
Yes, Shannow talked about that in detail in the thread he linked to. Also covered the base oil interchangeability guidelines and required re-tests.
file:///C:/Users/wemay/Downloads/D6922.pdf
4. Summary of Test Method
4.1 Visual color determinations and observations are made
on an undiluted test oil specimen, along with six blends of the
same test oil that have been combined with specific reference
oils. The pour point is then determined for the undiluted test oil
specimen and the six blends. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to warm to room temperature.
Color determinations and observations are again made on the
undiluted test oil specimen and six blends. The undiluted test
oil specimen and six blends are heated to 232°C, then allowed
to cool to room temperature, and then stored at their pour point
temperatures for 18 to 24 h. The undiluted test oil specimen
and six blends are then allowed to thaw and a series of color
determinations and observations are made as they reach room
temperature. All data are recorded on a report form.
5. Significance and Use
5.1 It is important that engine oils from different manufacturers be homogeneous and miscible with each other, because
operators of automotive engines often do not have prior knowledge of the manufacturer of the oil that is currently used
in their application, and engine failure can occur if oils are
combined that do not stay homogeneous and function properly
Yes, Shannow talked about that in detail in the thread he linked to. Also covered the base oil interchangeability guidelines and required re-tests.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
That, EXACTLY, is why I called the "Caterham blend" and all such things nonsense. It just makes those who fancy themselves to be Jr. Chemists feel smart somehow.
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
That, EXACTLY, is why I called the "Caterham blend" and all such things nonsense. It just makes those who fancy themselves to be Jr. Chemists feel smart somehow.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Originally Posted by gfh77665
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
That, EXACTLY, is why I called the "Caterham blend" and all such things nonsense. It just makes those who fancy themselves to be Jr. Chemists feel smart somehow.
OK, I THINK we are back on the same page then
I'm in agreement.
Originally Posted by OVERKILL
Performance of the final product doesn't work that way.
That, EXACTLY, is why I called the "Caterham blend" and all such things nonsense. It just makes those who fancy themselves to be Jr. Chemists feel smart somehow.
OK, I THINK we are back on the same page then
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