Castrol 0W-30 & 5W-30 Euro formula differences

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New here, just curious what, and if there are any, the differences between Castrol 0W-30 and 5W-30 European Formula oils. Obviously the 0 and 5 weight, but i mean as far as whats in them? In a car i recently purchased I would like to run the 5W-30 however it's quite difficult to get it. The 0W-30 is very easy to get, and benefits/problems with running the 0W-30? Car called for 5W-20 from factory but makes good power and will be driven hard so i'm choosing to run a xW-30 weight.

Thank You all.
 
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
New here, just curious what, and if there are any, the differences between Castrol 0W-30 and 5W-30 European Formula oils. Obviously the 0 and 5 weight, but i mean as far as whats in them? In a car i recently purchased I would like to run the 5W-30 however it's quite difficult to get it. The 0W-30 is very easy to get, and benefits/problems with running the 0W-30? Car called for 5W-20 from factory but makes good power and will be driven hard so i'm choosing to run a xW-30 weight.

Thank You all.

0W30 is more sophisticated of two. There are no any drawbacks of running any of those. They are though on heavy side of w30, almost W40.
 
0W-30 is about 25-50% PAO base oil, with the remainder being thicker hydrocrack Group III.

5W-30 is all Group III.

The PAO is present in the 0W-30 is mainly there so it can pass the "0W" tests, while still meeting all the other requirements of that oil (A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, etc).
 
PAO like Esters are better base oils but regardless lighter base oils tend to burn off quicker, hence the higher noaks for them
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
0W-30 is about 25-50% PAO base oil, with the remainder being thicker hydrocrack Group III.

5W-30 is all Group III.

The PAO is present in the 0W-30 is mainly there so it can pass the "0W" tests, while still meeting all the other requirements of that oil (A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, etc).

Where can I find this published information?
 
Originally Posted by sloinker
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
0W-30 is about 25-50% PAO base oil, with the remainder being thicker hydrocrack Group III.

5W-30 is all Group III.

The PAO is present in the 0W-30 is mainly there so it can pass the "0W" tests, while still meeting all the other requirements of that oil (A3/B4, BMW LL-01, MB 229.5, etc).

Where can I find this published information?



Current MSDS is usually helpful.
 
I was under the impression that the European Formula Castrol was 100% PAO based because it's made in Belgium, and any oil sold in Europe that is marketed and sold as a Full Synthetic HAS to be fully synthetic. I've actually read that somewhere on this forum before.
 
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
I was under the impression that the European Formula Castrol was 100% PAO based because it's made in Belgium, and any oil sold in Europe that is marketed and sold as a Full Synthetic HAS to be fully synthetic. I've actually read that somewhere on this forum before.

No. It's not 100% PAO, partly because no fully formulated oil is ever 100% PAO.

And it's not Europe, it's Germany only.
 
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
I was under the impression that the European Formula Castrol was 100% PAO based because it's made in Belgium, and any oil sold in Europe that is marketed and sold as a Full Synthetic HAS to be fully synthetic. I've actually read that somewhere on this forum before.


IIRC there's no such thing as 100 percent PAO motor oil because it's a poor carrier for additives.
 
The reason I was asking is the info I can glean online through the SDS and company provided product sheets doesn't show the hallmarks of large quantities of PAO or Ester base oils. The pour points and HTHS are not really indicative of having much class IV or V. The Euro 5w30 low saps LL3 is class III as I have used it in the past and researched it pretty thoroughly. The old Mobil1 Euro 5W30 had a good amount of PAO it seems by its specs, but is hard to find now and I believe has been replaced by less expensive base oils.
 
LotI - Car is a high horsepower 04 Cobra that's going to get driven hard. Ford has come out in the past and said that the 5W-20 thing was for fuel economy purposes, i'm also on several pages/forums with owners and engine builders that all strongly recommend using a higher viscosity oil than what he engine calls for factory.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
LotI - Car is a high horsepower 04 Cobra that's going to get driven hard. Ford has come out in the past and said that the 5W-20 thing was for fuel economy purposes, i'm also on several pages/forums with owners and engine builders that all strongly recommend using a higher viscosity oil than what he engine calls for factory.


There's many full syn "thicker" oils available at your local Walmart that will work in your application:

- Rotella T6 5W-40
- Delo XSP 5W-40
- M1 0W-40
- Castrol 0W-40 and 5W-40
- M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

Castrol 0W-30 is hard to find less than $10 a quart.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted by benjy
PAO like Esters are better base oils but regardless lighter base oils tend to burn off quicker, hence the higher noaks for them


If that's the rule, then why is Redline the exception to it as their High performance 5w30 and Euro 5w40 have low NOACK evaporation? It is primarily PAO/Ester blend.
 
Originally Posted by 1JZ_E46
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
LotI - Car is a high horsepower 04 Cobra that's going to get driven hard. Ford has come out in the past and said that the 5W-20 thing was for fuel economy purposes, i'm also on several pages/forums with owners and engine builders that all strongly recommend using a higher viscosity oil than what he engine calls for factory.


There's many full syn "thicker" oils available at your local Walmart that will work in your application:

- Rotella T6 5W-40
- Delo XSP 5W-40
- M1 0W-40
- Castrol 0W-40 and 5W-40
- M1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40

Castrol 0W-30 is hard to find less than $10 a quart.


I can get the 0W-30 European Formula for about $5.50 a quart through my shop account at a local O'Reilly Auto Parts so that is not an issue. I was trying to not go with the 0W-40 because the car still has a factory bottom end and I've been told that it could be too thick for the bearing clearances. I don't know enough about viscosity/thickness/flow to know what i would be better off doing.
 
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
I was trying to not go with the 0W-40 because the car still has a factory bottom end and I've been told that it could be too thick for the bearing clearances. I don't know enough about viscosity/thickness/flow to know what i would be better off doing.

No lol. It's not going to be too thick.

Besides the 0W-30 Euro formula is nearly the same operating viscosity. But even if it wasn't the 40 grade is not going to be too thick, that's complete nonsense.
 
^^^Besides, the M1 0W-40 at least (I don't know about the Castrol Edge 0W-40 product's HTHSV) is one of the thinner (thinnest?
21.gif
) 40 weights in existence, no?
 
Originally Posted by UG_Passat
Originally Posted by benjy
PAO like Esters are better base oils but regardless lighter base oils tend to burn off quicker, hence the higher noaks for them


If that's the rule, then why is Redline the exception to it as their High performance 5w30 and Euro 5w40 have low NOACK evaporation? It is primarily PAO/Ester blend.


You can get away with a heavier PAO or POE base because of the superior low temp performance, whilst you'll have to use a lighter (4cSt) Group III or lower base.
 
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
I was trying to not go with the 0W-40 because the car still has a factory bottom end and I've been told that it could be too thick for the bearing clearances. I don't know enough about viscosity/thickness/flow to know what i would be better off doing.

No lol. It's not going to be too thick.

Besides the 0W-30 Euro formula is nearly the same operating viscosity. But even if it wasn't the 40 grade is not going to be too thick, that's complete nonsense.



I don't know enough that's why I came here to ask the experts. My main concern was using a 5W-30 or a 0W-30, i can get 0W-30 easier but i CAN get the W-30 if need be.
 
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
Originally Posted by kschachn
Originally Posted by Natedogg1701
I was trying to not go with the 0W-40 because the car still has a factory bottom end and I've been told that it could be too thick for the bearing clearances. I don't know enough about viscosity/thickness/flow to know what i would be better off doing.

No lol. It's not going to be too thick.

Besides the 0W-30 Euro formula is nearly the same operating viscosity. But even if it wasn't the 40 grade is not going to be too thick, that's complete nonsense.



I don't know enough that's why I came here to ask the experts. My main concern was using a 5W-30 or a 0W-30, i can get 0W-30 easier but i CAN get the W-30 if need be.

5W or 0W is just performance of oil at cold start.
 
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