2007 Kia Sedona has a cartridge style oil filter which sits on top of the engine in a housing . Even with great care to use a factory filter or NAPA Gold filter - I question the effectiveness of such a filter ? As a comparison , my other vehicles which use a traditional encased filter which sits under the engine seem to hold more crud where as the cartridge style filter doesn't seem to have changed much when inspected after an oil change ? Your opinions , thoughts or experiences between the two ?
Cartridge Filter vs. Traditional Encased Filter ?
- Thread starter ChrisD46
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All my cars run a cartridge filters. I've been using them for the last 9 years, with no issues so far. I think they hold just as much crud as a traditional filter...
Then again, I've done a good job of keeping my engine clean as well...
Then again, I've done a good job of keeping my engine clean as well...
Do you remove the filter before draining the oil on your Sedona?
Most German cars have cartridge filters on top of the engines for more than 20-30 years and no additional problems.
They are both effective, but cartridge is more "enviro" friendly. My 1966 Pontiac had one when I was a kid, and I liked the spin on type, but they all do the same thing
Having used both I'll take a properly mounted cartridge filter any day of the week. Properly mounted means it is accessible from the top. Combine a cartridge filter with an oil extractor and you don't have to get under the car to change the oil! I've done oil changes on my TDIs this way - it's fantastic and actually removes more oil than a bottomside drain (when you suction out the oil cooler at the filter housing base).
I also like that with cartridge filters the oil bypass is built into the block somewhere - no more worries about bypass valve types or what material it's made of. Another a big plus for the BITOG crowd is you always get the chance to easily inspect the filter element instead of having to cut open the can of a spin-on filter.
I also like that with cartridge filters the oil bypass is built into the block somewhere - no more worries about bypass valve types or what material it's made of. Another a big plus for the BITOG crowd is you always get the chance to easily inspect the filter element instead of having to cut open the can of a spin-on filter.
I performed my first cartridge style oil change this past weekend. It was a little different. I didn't buy the 65mm, 14-flute oil filter wrench, so I improvised with the adjustable oil filter wrench we've used on cannister filters for years with a cut piece of serpentine belt to fill the void and grip the plastic housing. I replaced the o-ring, but forgot to oil the new one and the threads on the plastic housing, until I finished pouring the sump. No biggie, I'll keep an eye on it.
I'd rate is just a tad more tideous than the cannister style, but just different. Something I'll get accustomed to after a few oil changes.
In terms of functionality, I see no difference. My only discern is that the OEM Toyota had the cheaper "glued" end but any OCI less than 10,000, I don't see a problem arising.
I'd rate is just a tad more tideous than the cannister style, but just different. Something I'll get accustomed to after a few oil changes.
In terms of functionality, I see no difference. My only discern is that the OEM Toyota had the cheaper "glued" end but any OCI less than 10,000, I don't see a problem arising.
Originally Posted By: scurvy
Having used both I'll take a properly mounted cartridge filter any day of the week. Properly mounted means it is accessible from the top. Combine a cartridge filter with an oil extractor and you don't have to get under the car to change the oil! I've done oil changes on my TDIs this way - it's fantastic and actually removes more oil than a bottomside drain (when you suction out the oil cooler at the filter housing base).
I also like that with cartridge filters the oil bypass is built into the block somewhere - no more worries about bypass valve types or what material it's made of. Another a big plus for the BITOG crowd is you always get the chance to easily inspect the filter element instead of having to cut open the can of a spin-on filter.
Originally Posted By: cancov
I performed my first cartridge style oil change this past weekend. It was a little different. I didn't buy the 65mm, 14-flute oil filter wrench, so I improvised with the adjustable oil filter wrench we've used on cannister filters for years with a cut piece of serpentine belt to fill the void and grip the plastic housing. I replaced the o-ring, but forgot to oil the new one and the threads on the plastic housing, until I finished pouring the sump. No biggie, I'll keep an eye on it.
I'd rate is just a tad more tideous than the cannister style, but just different. Something I'll get accustomed to after a few oil changes.
In terms of functionality, I see no difference. My only discern is that the OEM Toyota had the cheaper "glued" end but any OCI less than 10,000, I don't see a problem arising.
I agree with above. Changing cartridge filter is more tideous than the canister style, especially when you need to change 4 o-rings on the filter holder.
One big advantage is you can inspect the filter element at anytime you want, if it is mounted on top of the engine. Once in a while, when I was so bored, I removed the filter holder in the evening to take a peek at the filter media then re-installed. If you do that with canister filter, you can not see anything other than inlet/outlet holes.
Having used both I'll take a properly mounted cartridge filter any day of the week. Properly mounted means it is accessible from the top. Combine a cartridge filter with an oil extractor and you don't have to get under the car to change the oil! I've done oil changes on my TDIs this way - it's fantastic and actually removes more oil than a bottomside drain (when you suction out the oil cooler at the filter housing base).
I also like that with cartridge filters the oil bypass is built into the block somewhere - no more worries about bypass valve types or what material it's made of. Another a big plus for the BITOG crowd is you always get the chance to easily inspect the filter element instead of having to cut open the can of a spin-on filter.
Originally Posted By: cancov
I performed my first cartridge style oil change this past weekend. It was a little different. I didn't buy the 65mm, 14-flute oil filter wrench, so I improvised with the adjustable oil filter wrench we've used on cannister filters for years with a cut piece of serpentine belt to fill the void and grip the plastic housing. I replaced the o-ring, but forgot to oil the new one and the threads on the plastic housing, until I finished pouring the sump. No biggie, I'll keep an eye on it.
I'd rate is just a tad more tideous than the cannister style, but just different. Something I'll get accustomed to after a few oil changes.
In terms of functionality, I see no difference. My only discern is that the OEM Toyota had the cheaper "glued" end but any OCI less than 10,000, I don't see a problem arising.
I agree with above. Changing cartridge filter is more tideous than the canister style, especially when you need to change 4 o-rings on the filter holder.
One big advantage is you can inspect the filter element at anytime you want, if it is mounted on top of the engine. Once in a while, when I was so bored, I removed the filter holder in the evening to take a peek at the filter media then re-installed. If you do that with canister filter, you can not see anything other than inlet/outlet holes.
When the filter is above oilpan level remove the filter before draining the oil.
I really like my cartridge filter. Its no more difficult to change then a can style. Mine is bottom mounted and has its own drain plug on the cap. I use an allen wrench to drain it out, then remove the cap and pull out the cartridge. I like looking at it as well and inspecting it.
Here is my last oil filter change in March as an example:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...927#Post2198927
Here is my last oil filter change in March as an example:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubb...927#Post2198927
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I have both and don't really have a preference. The cartridge is maybe a little cleaner, don't have to cut it open to see the media. I will agree with the bypass statement though and like that GM puts them in the block so I don't have to worry about it though.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Is there a specific reason why you should remove the cartridge filter first if it's above the oil pan ?
Doing so allows the oil trapped in the filter housing to drain back down into the oil pan.
Is there a specific reason why you should remove the cartridge filter first if it's above the oil pan ?
Doing so allows the oil trapped in the filter housing to drain back down into the oil pan.
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Originally Posted By: scurvy
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Is there a specific reason why you should remove the cartridge filter first if it's above the oil pan ?
Doing so allows the oil trapped in the filter housing to drain back down into the oil pan.
When I did the BMW, I pulled the plug and allowed to oil to start draining. Since I normally give it 15 minutes to drain or so, I then went and removed the cap from the filter housing and pulled the element. This drained the canister while the oil was already draining. I waited until no more oil was coming out, put the plug back in, put in the new filter, screwed on the canister lid then put the fresh oil in.
Originally Posted By: ChrisD46
Is there a specific reason why you should remove the cartridge filter first if it's above the oil pan ?
Doing so allows the oil trapped in the filter housing to drain back down into the oil pan.
When I did the BMW, I pulled the plug and allowed to oil to start draining. Since I normally give it 15 minutes to drain or so, I then went and removed the cap from the filter housing and pulled the element. This drained the canister while the oil was already draining. I waited until no more oil was coming out, put the plug back in, put in the new filter, screwed on the canister lid then put the fresh oil in.
My old Studebaker has a cartridge filter and it's still going strong. Choices then were simple: cartridge or no filter at all.
To me, spin-ons are easier and more idiot proof.
My 123 diesels had massive cartridge filters, as have both of my BMWs.
The 123 diesel filter was really easy to change.
To appreciate how large it is, consider that it has a little wire handle with which you pull it out.
I find the BMW filter housing cover a bit of a PITA.
It is easy to get it to not seal around the bolt that runs through the filter and holds it down, although I may be doing something wrong.
The GM Ecotec design is flawless and easy to change.
Did one once as a favor. An easy oil change on an engine I had never touched before, and likely never will again.
Any cartridge filter that must be accessed from the bottom of the vehicle is an automatic fail.
My 123 diesels had massive cartridge filters, as have both of my BMWs.
The 123 diesel filter was really easy to change.
To appreciate how large it is, consider that it has a little wire handle with which you pull it out.
I find the BMW filter housing cover a bit of a PITA.
It is easy to get it to not seal around the bolt that runs through the filter and holds it down, although I may be doing something wrong.
The GM Ecotec design is flawless and easy to change.
Did one once as a favor. An easy oil change on an engine I had never touched before, and likely never will again.
Any cartridge filter that must be accessed from the bottom of the vehicle is an automatic fail.
Originally Posted By: fdcg27
Any cartridge filter that must be accessed from the bottom of the vehicle is an automatic fail.
I agree.
Any cartridge filter that must be accessed from the bottom of the vehicle is an automatic fail.
I agree.
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