Can use Torque wrench Horizontally?
- Thread starter SumpChump
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At 10 ft/lb oil won't make much difference. Might actually get 10 1/4.
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I always use a torque wrench on my drain plugs. I have torque wrenches, I have the torque spec, so I see no reason not to do it.
And lug nuts same way. I was told that a properly torqued lug nut will prevent a warped disc brake rotor.
Rotors that have the studs and wheel bearings in them and are held by a spindle nut, then yes you have be careful.
If the rotor just sandwiched between the hub and wheel its not really that critical, rust on the hub is more likely to cause problems.
I always torque aluminum pan drain plugs, steel just snug.
Originally Posted By: stephen9666
I always use a torque wrench on my drain plugs. I have torque wrenches, I have the torque spec, so I see no reason not to do it.
And lug nuts same way. I was told that a properly torqued lug nut will prevent a warped disc brake rotor.
Rotors that have the studs and wheel bearings in them and are held by a spindle nut, then yes you have be careful.
If the rotor just sandwiched between the hub and wheel its not really that critical, rust on the hub is more likely to cause problems.
I always torque aluminum pan drain plugs, steel just snug.
No need for a torque wrench for the oil drain plug -- and you are hearing this from someone who uses a torque wrench for almost everything.
Torque specs on drain plugs are usually excessive as the OEMs ignore the fact that there is a gasket. Just make sure you are using a quality gasket and tighten it by feeling how much the gasket is being compressed. About 10 ft lb is enough for a quality gasket. I would change the gasket every time.
Torque specs on drain plugs are usually excessive as the OEMs ignore the fact that there is a gasket. Just make sure you are using a quality gasket and tighten it by feeling how much the gasket is being compressed. About 10 ft lb is enough for a quality gasket. I would change the gasket every time.
Originally Posted By: Gokhan
No need for a torque wrench for the oil drain plug -- and you are hearing this from someone who uses a torque wrench for almost everything.
Torque specs on drain plugs are usually excessive as the OEMs ignore the fact that there is a gasket. Just make sure you are using a quality gasket and tighten it by feeling how much the gasket is being compressed. About 10 ft lb is enough for a quality gasket. I would change the gasket every time.
This may work for you but the OP wanted to know specifically about torqueing. A Ford drain plug may require 15 ft. lbs. of torque but a Duramax is 62 ft. lbs. Some on-highway diesels are 75 ft. lbs. or more. Not every oil drain plug uses a gasket.
I weigh the inconvenience of torqueing drain plugs against the cost of replacing an oil pan after the threads are pulled out or the cost of rebuilding an engine after it dumps all the oil on the pavement while under maximum load. Running a fleet I always gave mechanics the choice: torque the plug or not. If it falls out, you are unemployed. They always torqued drain plugs. OTOH, you may do whatever you want on your engine.
No need for a torque wrench for the oil drain plug -- and you are hearing this from someone who uses a torque wrench for almost everything.
Torque specs on drain plugs are usually excessive as the OEMs ignore the fact that there is a gasket. Just make sure you are using a quality gasket and tighten it by feeling how much the gasket is being compressed. About 10 ft lb is enough for a quality gasket. I would change the gasket every time.
This may work for you but the OP wanted to know specifically about torqueing. A Ford drain plug may require 15 ft. lbs. of torque but a Duramax is 62 ft. lbs. Some on-highway diesels are 75 ft. lbs. or more. Not every oil drain plug uses a gasket.
I weigh the inconvenience of torqueing drain plugs against the cost of replacing an oil pan after the threads are pulled out or the cost of rebuilding an engine after it dumps all the oil on the pavement while under maximum load. Running a fleet I always gave mechanics the choice: torque the plug or not. If it falls out, you are unemployed. They always torqued drain plugs. OTOH, you may do whatever you want on your engine.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
So AITG, as long as I PUSH to torque even though horizontal to the earth surface...I will be ok?
What would be in error would be to PULL the wrench? If un understand correctly.
Sorry I was a little slow getting back to you. Like others have said, the Earth surface isn't the issue. The issue is to pull on the same plane as the wrench handle as opposed to twisting it off axis. Pushing on the wrench is a safety issue: if the wrench slips (or the ratchet breaks) you will end up punching out something solid or doing a faceplant.
The most painful thing I have ever experienced was a ratchet failure while pulling at 200 ft. lbs. My thumb got crushed between the wrench handle and a cast iron air compressor head. I didn't know I could punch anything that hard. It cost me one thumbnail and a fracture that took 8 weeks to heal.
So AITG, as long as I PUSH to torque even though horizontal to the earth surface...I will be ok?
What would be in error would be to PULL the wrench? If un understand correctly.
Sorry I was a little slow getting back to you. Like others have said, the Earth surface isn't the issue. The issue is to pull on the same plane as the wrench handle as opposed to twisting it off axis. Pushing on the wrench is a safety issue: if the wrench slips (or the ratchet breaks) you will end up punching out something solid or doing a faceplant.
The most painful thing I have ever experienced was a ratchet failure while pulling at 200 ft. lbs. My thumb got crushed between the wrench handle and a cast iron air compressor head. I didn't know I could punch anything that hard. It cost me one thumbnail and a fracture that took 8 weeks to heal.
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Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Not looking or answers like, "get it good n tight".. I asked about torque wrenches.
You really SHOULD be able to tighten the drain plug without a torque wrench.
People who need a torque wrench for a drain plug probably shouldn't be turning any kind of wrenches.
Not looking or answers like, "get it good n tight".. I asked about torque wrenches.
You really SHOULD be able to tighten the drain plug without a torque wrench.
People who need a torque wrench for a drain plug probably shouldn't be turning any kind of wrenches.
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Not looking or answers like, "get it good n tight".. I asked about torque wrenches.
You really SHOULD be able to tighten the drain plug without a torque wrench.
People who need a torque wrench for a drain plug probably shouldn't be turning any kind of wrenches.
I guess i better quit while I'm ahead. LOL I see an aluminum pan, out comes the torque wrench.
Some people just don't have the feel and use a torque wrench on everything and thats fine. Rather torqued properly then gorilla armed or loose.
Originally Posted By: SumpChump
Not looking or answers like, "get it good n tight".. I asked about torque wrenches.
You really SHOULD be able to tighten the drain plug without a torque wrench.
People who need a torque wrench for a drain plug probably shouldn't be turning any kind of wrenches.
I guess i better quit while I'm ahead. LOL I see an aluminum pan, out comes the torque wrench.
Some people just don't have the feel and use a torque wrench on everything and thats fine. Rather torqued properly then gorilla armed or loose.
There is a torque figure for Toyota drain plugs. I figure it's a wise idea to stay close to it. On the other hand, I now use a 14 mm gear wrench, after measuring the torque I set with it with my torque wrench I found d I'm pretty close. I always finish wheel nuts with a torque wrench. I think it wise to avoid an imbalance across the wheel and rotor.
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Originally Posted By: Trav
I guess i better quit while I'm ahead. LOL I see an aluminum pan, out comes the torque wrench.
Some people just don't have the feel and use a torque wrench on everything and thats fine. Rather torqued properly then gorilla armed or loose.
This is what I use to tighten my Buick's drain plug:
http://store.snapon.com/SearchResults.as...amp;FieldValue=
I turn the drain plug until it stops and then I put a little bit of shoulder into it for the final tightness. It's the same drain plug GM uses on most all their vehicles. It's a flange bolt with a built in rubber flat washer. There's no spongy feel when tightening it. It spins in real easy and then stops hard when it's tight. The feel I get from it is excellent. If the feel is not spongy, I see no reason to use a torque wrench.
I guess i better quit while I'm ahead. LOL I see an aluminum pan, out comes the torque wrench.
Some people just don't have the feel and use a torque wrench on everything and thats fine. Rather torqued properly then gorilla armed or loose.
This is what I use to tighten my Buick's drain plug:
http://store.snapon.com/SearchResults.as...amp;FieldValue=
I turn the drain plug until it stops and then I put a little bit of shoulder into it for the final tightness. It's the same drain plug GM uses on most all their vehicles. It's a flange bolt with a built in rubber flat washer. There's no spongy feel when tightening it. It spins in real easy and then stops hard when it's tight. The feel I get from it is excellent. If the feel is not spongy, I see no reason to use a torque wrench.
I torque lugs only* Everything else is by feel and my brakes still work, suspension, oil in stays in the pan/filter, etc.
Maybe people who have air tools don't get the same amount of arm use? I'm only an occasional wrencher and am fully confident with realizing what fasteners need what amount of general force/tightness.
*matter of fact, I am quite sure I've torqued enough lugs to do those by feel now also, but the clicker is easy and quick to use in this instance.
Maybe people who have air tools don't get the same amount of arm use? I'm only an occasional wrencher and am fully confident with realizing what fasteners need what amount of general force/tightness.
*matter of fact, I am quite sure I've torqued enough lugs to do those by feel now also, but the clicker is easy and quick to use in this instance.
You think i am using a torque wrench on my GP drain plug? Its a steel pan, snug is good enough.
Fiddle around like that with a Honda (and others) aluminum pan and you could be in for a nasty and expensive surprise. Knowing what to use and when to use it makes a difference.
Anyone not torquing suspension fasteners, brake fasteners, hubs, lugs or any other critical fasteners like some of those found in the engine is either a hack or a fool.
There is no shame in using a torque wrench. For some reason a lot of DIY guys think it makes them look less of a mechanic.
Fiddle around like that with a Honda (and others) aluminum pan and you could be in for a nasty and expensive surprise. Knowing what to use and when to use it makes a difference.
Anyone not torquing suspension fasteners, brake fasteners, hubs, lugs or any other critical fasteners like some of those found in the engine is either a hack or a fool.
There is no shame in using a torque wrench. For some reason a lot of DIY guys think it makes them look less of a mechanic.
For Toyota's with 14-mm-socket drain plugs, the OEM torque spec is 27 ft lb. This is ridiculously too high!!! Likewise, the OEM torque spec on the oil filter or oil-filter-cartridge cap is ridiculously too high.
The 2009 Corolla I once had came from the US-based Toyota engine factory with a drain plug tightened so much that I couldn't pry off the drain-plug gasket for several oil changes -- it was toothed in and stuck there from overtorquing. Kept putting a second, new gasket over it and one day it eventually came off.
For quite a while, Toyota's had a problem with their OEM drain-plug gasket. The gasket material was too hard and springy and it wouldn't sponge in at all and cause the drain plug to come loose. When they had that gasket, I would tighten the plug very well. It never came off and caused a leak but I kept finding it loose during the oil changes. They eventually redesigned the gasket. Now, it's aluminum sandwiched within gasket material and works very well.
Bad hard, springy gasket they had for a while:
Newest 14-mm-wrench Toyota gasket design with soft laminar aluminum sandwiched within blue gasket material that is strong but soft and won't come loose:
So, I simply tighten the drain plug to about 10 ft lb and that's more than enough. I bet even if I only tightened it with my bare fingers, it wouldn't come loose with the current gasket design.
When it comes to canister-type oil filters, I only tighten them by hand -- never use an oil-filter wrench to tighten a canister-type oil filter. This was a great advise I got from an oil-change technician many years ago. Just tighten them with bare hands or holding with a shop towel as much as you can and it won't loosen even a tiny bit. This way, you won't go crazy when it's time to remove the filter. Even with a hand-tightened filter with a properly lubricated gasket, you need to press hard on the wrench when it's time to remove it and a wrench-tightened one is usually a nightmare.
The 2009 Corolla I once had came from the US-based Toyota engine factory with a drain plug tightened so much that I couldn't pry off the drain-plug gasket for several oil changes -- it was toothed in and stuck there from overtorquing. Kept putting a second, new gasket over it and one day it eventually came off.
For quite a while, Toyota's had a problem with their OEM drain-plug gasket. The gasket material was too hard and springy and it wouldn't sponge in at all and cause the drain plug to come loose. When they had that gasket, I would tighten the plug very well. It never came off and caused a leak but I kept finding it loose during the oil changes. They eventually redesigned the gasket. Now, it's aluminum sandwiched within gasket material and works very well.
Bad hard, springy gasket they had for a while:
Newest 14-mm-wrench Toyota gasket design with soft laminar aluminum sandwiched within blue gasket material that is strong but soft and won't come loose:
So, I simply tighten the drain plug to about 10 ft lb and that's more than enough. I bet even if I only tightened it with my bare fingers, it wouldn't come loose with the current gasket design.
When it comes to canister-type oil filters, I only tighten them by hand -- never use an oil-filter wrench to tighten a canister-type oil filter. This was a great advise I got from an oil-change technician many years ago. Just tighten them with bare hands or holding with a shop towel as much as you can and it won't loosen even a tiny bit. This way, you won't go crazy when it's time to remove the filter. Even with a hand-tightened filter with a properly lubricated gasket, you need to press hard on the wrench when it's time to remove it and a wrench-tightened one is usually a nightmare.
Originally Posted By: Trav
Anyone not torquing suspension fasteners, brake fasteners, hubs, lugs or any other critical fasteners like some of those found in the engine is either a hack or a fool.
I don't use a torque wrench on any of that stuff. I get the fasteners tight enough to know that they will never back off. How are you supposed to use a torque wrench on a ball joint castle nut?
Anyone not torquing suspension fasteners, brake fasteners, hubs, lugs or any other critical fasteners like some of those found in the engine is either a hack or a fool.
I don't use a torque wrench on any of that stuff. I get the fasteners tight enough to know that they will never back off. How are you supposed to use a torque wrench on a ball joint castle nut?
Obviously without a crows foot and the correct torque adjustment figures you cant and that's fine it has a cotter pin. Be aware that on aluminum knuckles too loose can elongate the hole and too tight can crack the knuckle so you do have be a little carefull.
Where the control arms meet the frame, caliper brackets, hubs and axle nuts correct torque is a must,
On many cars your asking for premature hub failure if you don't get the CV axle nut torque right.
Hey if you can do all these fasteners without it your a better mechanic than me because i do. LOL
Where the control arms meet the frame, caliper brackets, hubs and axle nuts correct torque is a must,
On many cars your asking for premature hub failure if you don't get the CV axle nut torque right.
Hey if you can do all these fasteners without it your a better mechanic than me because i do. LOL
Aside from internal engine components and components that are torque critical such as bearings and axle components, I rarely use a torque wrench.Never torqued a wheel in my life. If that makes me a hack then a hack I am. But it also makes the vast majority of ASE mechanics hacks, because I guarantee you most of them do the same. Not once have I ever had anything come loose or back off and none of my vehicles have ever seen the inside of a shop (except when our Mountaineer was new and under warranty. I once sat through a class on pipe flange alignment (I'm talking large flanges with 30+ studs) and the point the instructor kept driving home was the importance of relieving enough tension on the pipe line to get a nice even draw of the flanges followed by the proper cross tightening. He went on to demonstrate how a properly tightened pipe with blind flanges on both sides could pass a hydro test with 2/3 of the specified torque.
No one does it so it must be okay right? I see some of the worst workmanship i ever seen in some of these garages but hey you guys want to do without its your car.
I put aluminum wheels on they torqued and in 100 miles they get torqued again.
If its wheels, hubs, suspension, drive shafts, cv axles, brakes, internal engine parts and some external, etc its not leaving without being properly torqued.
Like it or not thats the right way!
I put aluminum wheels on they torqued and in 100 miles they get torqued again.
If its wheels, hubs, suspension, drive shafts, cv axles, brakes, internal engine parts and some external, etc its not leaving without being properly torqued.
Like it or not thats the right way!
Originally Posted By: Trav
Where the control arms meet the frame, caliper brackets, hubs and axle nuts correct torque is a must,
On many cars your asking for premature hub failure if you don't get the CV axle nut torque right.
For axle nuts, control arm to frame bolts, and lug nuts, I use this with both hands pulling with all my mite:
For brake caliper mounting bolts, hub to spindle bolts, caliper bracket bolts, and of course spark plugs, I use this:
By the way, after the world gets blown up with nuclear weapons, the only thing left on Earth will be cockroaches and my indestructible Proto 3/4'' drive x 1-5/16'' socket.
Where the control arms meet the frame, caliper brackets, hubs and axle nuts correct torque is a must,
On many cars your asking for premature hub failure if you don't get the CV axle nut torque right.
For axle nuts, control arm to frame bolts, and lug nuts, I use this with both hands pulling with all my mite:
For brake caliper mounting bolts, hub to spindle bolts, caliper bracket bolts, and of course spark plugs, I use this:
By the way, after the world gets blown up with nuclear weapons, the only thing left on Earth will be cockroaches and my indestructible Proto 3/4'' drive x 1-5/16'' socket.
Oh my.
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