Can initial use of a different oil loosen

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up enough stuff to make the insoluble count register at 0.4 on a UOA?

Reason I ask, is I have looked long and hard for a different kind of oil filter, rather then the OEM Isuzu (by Filtech) filter that I've used for some time now, thinking that the OEM filter isn't filtering very well. But, other filters that I have looked at, don't look as quality built as these Filtech's do.

These suckers are pretty sturdy, easy to put on and off, and I tried to open one, took me a few hours.

The one UOA I have done on this truck consisted of: OEM Isuzu filter and Havoline blend 5w-30. This was the 1st time it had ever seen a Blend oil, which most say, I know, is not much different then a regular oil.

The truck, at 154k miles, has had a life of 10w-30 Havoline dino oil, give or take a few change outs of Chevron dino oil and 3 rounds of Rotella synthetic.

So my question is, "should" I keep looking for a new filter, or is it possible that this blend-based oil loosened particules that would otherwise diminish by continuing use of the new blend and same filter?

I have a motorcraft filter on it, 97 Rodeo, now, but it has caused a slight ticking to return. This truck is not a ticker, only when I've used, in the past, Mobil 1, STP, AC Delco, Fram, Purolator premium, and Napa filters.

Thus you can see my reasoning for being filter picky, and I know many say that it could be that one or two filters may have had a flaw, and I was just unfortunate enough to have grabbed the flawed filters when the rest of you can use them without issue - but I don't see how that's likely.

FWIW - the part# my truck calls for, is 3593A Fram/ST, S2808/STP, or M1-104/Mobil 1

I don't remember the part# for Purolator or Napa Gold.

I'd like to know what you guys would do, would you do another round of Havoline blend & Isuzu filter, or keep looking for a non-ticking filter?

Blackstone said the filtering of my air/oil filter was good, but I didn't like the 0.4 Insoluble count after only 2,770 miles on the UOA.
 
1. your truck is a ticker if 5 out 6 brands
of filters make it tick - so use OEM.
2. Just do another round and test.
 
If a Bosch won't tick , ST should work and AZs Valuecraft. ( I thought an STP was a similar Champ too)
Rodeos are prone to ticking like my Mazda so I agree---- use filters that help and oil that helps. I can't use most 10-30 without more ticking and Mazda's recommended fix is 5-30.
Any of the filters you've listed that don't tick ought to do the filtering job.

Its possible you are getting some cleaning action with the different oil- although you've run Rotella Syn that would probably do as much.
Did Rotella Syn work w/o ticking?
 
Yes, it did. I LOVED it!

Just thought it might be too thick for Colorado winter, so I switched back to a 5w-30.

What oil are you using?
 
5-30 Chevron or 5-20 Chevron and equal parts 15-40 delo (the 50/50 mix is more like thick 10-30).
I am going to try a few other filters for my tick. I've been using Purolators since they've been under a buck but I'd pay more for less tick.
I'm swapping a few HLA and looking to go pick and pull a few this spring to the old tickers ( my guess is one or two near the front by sound location of the ticking.)

I do run the oil level at the full line and that helps. I'll probably add an new oil pump when I do the next timing belt change. They also tick when the oil is dirty after 5k miles. Your high insoluable count probably is contributing to the ticking rather than the filter failing to keep the oil clean.

I did a 2x ARX and it help more on the ring pack than the ticking.
 
quote:

Originally posted by m2200b:
1. your truck is a ticker if 5 out 6 brands
of filters make it tick - so use OEM.


Is this theory still true, if Fram extended guard, Bosch, K&N filters can be used withOUT ticking?

Reason I don't use them, Fram is gunk, Bosch seems to be uncertain by most here & is a PAIN in the arss to grip onto, and K&N is ridiculously priced.
 
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