People consistently over oil their KN filters causing MAF/sensor issues. Not KN's fault I agree and have repeatedly stated so.
Here you go....free and on the house
http://www.iespell.com/
Can anyone offer proof that K&N is inferior?
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People consistently over oil their KN filters causing MAF/sensor issues. Not KN's fault I agree and have repeatedly stated so.
Here you go....free and on the house
http://www.iespell.com/
Show me one MAF equipped engine where the crankcase breather is in front of the MAF? There is a difference between metered and unmetered air, the crankcase breather will always be "downwind" of the MAF. Can't blame that for trashing MAFs.
I am one of the evil dealership techs that blame K&Ns for trashing MAF sensors. It doesn't take a huge stretch of imagination when you see a MAF sensor covered in oil film and a sensor wire packed with crud. That little ""K&N Equipped" sticker was proudly displayed somewhere on the intake. Combine a K&N with dusty conditions and you takes your chances.
Work on 40+ cars a week for performance problems and you tend to notice trends like this.
I called Donaldson and they said they make the nano air filter series for Amsoil. Amsoil does not make them.
I haven't had any MAF related issues on my car (S&B) nor on my father's Sierra (K&N) with the cotton gauze(sp) type filters. I've cleaned both MAF sensors before and haven't noticed anything out of the oridinary. Of course on both filters I run an outerwears prefilter cover, as they are FTW. gone are the days of me using pantyhose.. Haven't had any build up of grime in the intake tract either. Although on my car, the intake tract is only about 5" long
I installed a S&B panel filter on the gf's 01 cavalier also. Not really sure why I bought it, but I did, and ended up getting two free filters because chevy changed the size of the air box ever so slightly that the filter would barely seat (took care of that with a 1/8" thick piece of nylon to add to the seat area) in the box. I think she prolly has maybe a dozen trips or so this last OCI running down dirt roads and around farm fields. Her first UOA (6,150mi) shows the filter is doing a fairly good job @ only 11ppm. Not that silicon levels are a clear cut and dry indication of how well a filter is filtering, it is a good indication
so, not bad if I do say so myself. I suppose sometime I can swap it out on an OCI for a paper unit and see how it compares.
I wouldn't mind running a paper element on my car due to the filter placement, but they dont' make one that would fit. Im waiting to see how well these AEM dryflow filters work, and might go with one of them.
I installed a S&B panel filter on the gf's 01 cavalier also. Not really sure why I bought it, but I did, and ended up getting two free filters because chevy changed the size of the air box ever so slightly that the filter would barely seat (took care of that with a 1/8" thick piece of nylon to add to the seat area) in the box. I think she prolly has maybe a dozen trips or so this last OCI running down dirt roads and around farm fields. Her first UOA (6,150mi) shows the filter is doing a fairly good job @ only 11ppm. Not that silicon levels are a clear cut and dry indication of how well a filter is filtering, it is a good indication
I wouldn't mind running a paper element on my car due to the filter placement, but they dont' make one that would fit. Im waiting to see how well these AEM dryflow filters work, and might go with one of them.
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Sounds like you are one off the evil dealership techs that charges a person $100+ for a new MAF senser and another $50 for 'labor', instead of just cleaning the MAF sensor.
I've used K&N in 3 different cars and put over 50k on two of them to have NO problems with the MAF sensor in any of them.
its an old wives tale that k&n oil the maf sensors i learned..one has to remember the pvc system is in the tube and air moves back an forth with normal use of the car the throttle is barely open therefore air breaths and that pvc air has oiled vapors and that could be the culprit..but many studies show that a maf sensor with oil soaked on it still functioned....k&n is getting a bad rap...they are great filters
Just bought a used E350 motorhome. Removed the 17,000 mile K&N filter. Saw very little dirt on filter, but lots of dust downstream of the filter. Getting rid of it and getting an Amsoil EaA.
Just installed a K&N this morning in our 2005 Subaru Outback.
Installed a K&N last week in our 1995 BMW 325ic.
Have run a K&N air filter in 1986 325es for over 450,000 miles.
I've cleaned the air filter more or less correctly for 20 years using the K&N products...and I used to be guilty of 'over oiling'.
The BMW 325es engine is original and has never had service beyond timing belts, water pumps, fan clutches, spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotors.
One BMW cylinder head gasket campaign was performed 20 years ago.
If K&N allows more dirt in or causes increased wear I think I'd see it over 2 decades and 400K + miles of very hard driving.
I also spoke with K&N at length at SEMA in Las Vegas last Octoberand they answered all my questions about the internet forum criticisms of K&N air filters.
Installed a K&N last week in our 1995 BMW 325ic.
Have run a K&N air filter in 1986 325es for over 450,000 miles.
I've cleaned the air filter more or less correctly for 20 years using the K&N products...and I used to be guilty of 'over oiling'.
The BMW 325es engine is original and has never had service beyond timing belts, water pumps, fan clutches, spark plugs, wires, and distributor cap and rotors.
One BMW cylinder head gasket campaign was performed 20 years ago.
If K&N allows more dirt in or causes increased wear I think I'd see it over 2 decades and 400K + miles of very hard driving.
I also spoke with K&N at length at SEMA in Las Vegas last Octoberand they answered all my questions about the internet forum criticisms of K&N air filters.
i agree with you i use to blame it on k&n then when i understood more on how an intake works i quickly changed my mind.. i learned that its all wives tales about k&n and other cotton oiled filters. i truly feel a big difference and cleanliness of my intake with k&n, afe etc...k&n has been in business since the early 60's and have survived by making a great product!!! i have all k&ns on my cold air intakes on all my fords and lincoln..the performance and the benefits for your engine are awasome
If a K&N fits well and is properly maintained it can work well. In the wrong hands they can be ineffective.
To the people who keep talking about mpg changes between filters. In most cases it just isnt going to happen in a gasoline engine. Why? A gas engine is air throttled. If the filter is more restrictive the throttle blade opens a little farther. Less restrictive and the throttle blade closes a little. Exactly the same amount of pumping losses for a given hp output and the ECM in most cases will maintain the fuel/air mixture at the same ratio.
To the people who keep talking about mpg changes between filters. In most cases it just isnt going to happen in a gasoline engine. Why? A gas engine is air throttled. If the filter is more restrictive the throttle blade opens a little farther. Less restrictive and the throttle blade closes a little. Exactly the same amount of pumping losses for a given hp output and the ECM in most cases will maintain the fuel/air mixture at the same ratio.
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My $0.02 for what it's worth:
On my '97 Escort wagon (hey! stop that giggling!) I switched from the stock paper filter to the K&N replacement at about 100,000 miles. At about 190,000 miles I placed an aftermarket air intake system with a K&N cone filter (hey! stop laughing and come back here!). The car suffered irreparable engine damage at 313,000 miles from head failure when valve seat inserts from a rebuilt head trashed all four pistons and cylinders three months ago. From about 100,000 miles I was also using Red Line oil, as I had intended to keep this car on the road for a long while. Unfortunately, heads seem to be a weak point with the Fix-Or-Repair-Daily 2.0 SPI (CVH) engine. Weaselmaster head rebuilders seem to be an even weaker point.
When the rebuilt head was installed earlier in 2006, I saw the condition of the cylinders, and they still had cross-hatching from the factory honing visible after nearly 300,000 miles. Periodically from about 75,000 miles (that is, before I ever installed the first K&N filter), I removed the intake system (stock or aftermarket) at the throttle body to clean the throttle body of oil residue at the plate from the PCV system. This was about every 20,000 miles, or about twice a year based on the usual mileage I would put on the car. When I would check the intake plenum during cleaning, it was always clean of dust and dirt, despite using a K&N filter after the 100,000 mile mark.
Generally I left the filter alone and cleaned it only about every 30,000 miles or so. The K&N cleaner and water were the only chemicals used for cleaning, and I used the aerosol oil. The cleaner and water was used from the inside out, and the filter gauze would come out nearly white. If I used a little too much oil, I wicked it off the filter with paper towels while blowing into the exit as it was sealed against my mouth and chin. Sounds stupid, but it worked well. The original factory MAF sensor failed at about 180,000 miles, but it was probably time for it to go anyway whether or not a K&N filter was installed. When I had the valve cover off to replace the gasket at well past 200,000 miles, everything in that area was clean, obviously from using Red Line, but my point is that there was no evidence of oil contamination from dirt.
With the K&N filter simply replacing the original-style paper filter, I noticed some difference in performance during full acceleration at highway speeds. With the aftermarket intake, that difference was greater. The Escort was no performance vehicle, mind you, but by seat-of-the-pants feel there was a tangible difference when accelerating on the Interstate. There was little difference with mileage. Would I try another K&N? Sure, why not?
I strongly suspect that problems with K&N filters not filtering or performing properly are mostly from failure to seal the filter against its mating surface, overcleaning, and overoiling. Certain vehicle applications are probably not ideal for use of any aftermarket filter, either, because of plenum routing and restrictions from the factory. Also, manufacturers are doing a better job designing intake systems and aren't really missing too many tricks today. Racing Beat has said on its website that in comparison to, say, 20 or 25 years ago, it was able to get an increase of only a few hp with modified intake and exhaust systems on the Mazda RX-8 compared to the factory setups. Years ago, of course, it was possible to unleash quite a bit of power with such aftermarket changes.
The RX-8 results say something, and they probably apply to many newer vehicles. As a result, unfortunately, it appears that the "maintenance-free" intake system with nonreplaceable filter as on the current US-spec Ford Focus is probably going to be the wave of the future as the automakers attempt to ensure that people won't use any aftermarket parts under the hood. K&N is a good outfit and I hope it can adapt.
This is something that alot of people cant grasp. Yes I believe the K&N's allow slightly more dirt past. But guess what, it is not halfing the engine life!!! Not every car is going to last 1,000,000 miles. Cars die for 3 reasons, wear, corrosion (rust), and fatigue (they break). Throw in a fourth, non repairable accidents.
I see oil analysis reports daily of improperly oiled or just loaded dirty nasty air filters made or cotton and syn fibers that restrict air flow. Period. Those that clean frequently and perfectly will see long service but the predominant person who uses these does not do that. Just my experience and I have used K&N for years in racing ( professional) and our personal cars. I no longer use them because a dry and sometimes cleanable media exists that I do not have to oil.
K&N fit and quality has always been exceptional.
Terry
K&N fit and quality has always been exceptional.
Terry
Don't know about the rest of you, but that says it all!
yup!
1. That is a serviceable filter on the Focus and recommend a 30K replacement in severe driving conditions. It is just a derivative of our diesel filter in use by a car.
2. They make CAI systems for about the same price as a replacement filter. Maqybe they have adapted already?
i just re-oiled my K&N on a LT1 camaro and know that i will have to clean the MAF wires every 2 or 3 months for the rest of the year, but that's ok. i'll also have to shoot throttle body cleaner into the intake but that's ok too because the stock filter is so restrictive. 17-20 dyno hp from switching to the K&N.
I also learned to not over-oil. once you see tiny red dots appear on the media, it's saturated. best to stop and let it soak in. sit it upright for a few hours and let the excess fall off.
I also learned to not over-oil. once you see tiny red dots appear on the media, it's saturated. best to stop and let it soak in. sit it upright for a few hours and let the excess fall off.
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