Bypass Filter & Pre-luber Install

[Tragic]

I'm about to install both a pre-lubrication pump and an Oil Guard bypass filter on a 2006 Jeep Liberty diesel. I plan for the pre-luber to take oil from the pan via the drain plug and return oil via an oil filter sandwich adapter, which will allow filtration prior to entrance into the engine. I plan to feed the bypass filter by way of the pressure sending unit port but I'm not sure where best to return the oil. The filter manufacturer normally recommends the oil pan via the drain plug but I doubt this would be a good idea with the pump feed plumbed there. I could plumb the return to the filler cap or valve cover, which is what the filter manufacturer recommends with use of the pre-luber, but I've also read reports of this possibly being hazardous to the engine depending upon the location of the return relative to the valve train and airflow. So, would a hollow bolt in the oil pan then be the best choice? Could there be any other option? Can I know that return to the filler cap or valve cover won't cause any damage in the long term? Also, I've read recommendations for hollow bolts to be installed above the pan oil level but have also read that it should be below. Which is correct? Does it matter?

And, is there a sandwhich adapter that would accept both the output of the pre-luber pump and the feed for the bypass filter?

Is there any better way to set this system up?

Thanks for any suggestions,

Mike

 

[Tragic]

I just realized that this vehicle has a cast aluminum oil pan. I'm guessing a STHB won't work, but not sure. Maybe if I drill & tap?

 

[LateArrivalforLSU]

quote:

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Originally posted by Tragic:
I just realized that this vehicle has a cast aluminum oil pan. I'm guessing a STHB won't work, but not sure. Maybe if I drill & tap?

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Right on. Drill and tap an aluminum pan.

 

[slalom44]

Your sandwich adapter will have an inlet and an outlet port to tap into, so you can hook your prelube pump up to the inlet and the Oil Guard to the outlet. You could put a tee after the hollow drain plug and feed one line to the preluber and the other through a check valve as the exit for the Oil Guard. With this setup, the check valve will prevent backflushing the oilguard and the preluber should have its own check valve to prevent reverse-flow through the pump.

I have a similar setup, but I use the Amsoil Dual Remote Bypass Filter. Rather than using a sandwich adapter, this unit is fed to and from an adapter plate. A spring-loaded valve in the BMK-13 unit provides the necessary differential pressure for the bypass filter. My prelube pump is fed from a hollow drain bolt and is hooked up to a tee at the inlet to the BMK-13 unit. A built-in check valve prevents the prelube pump from allowing oil to go backwards through the pump.

 

[canadiantim]

If you're already making an oil connection to the pan plug as the supply for the preoiler, you could return bypassed oil here as well.

You'd need some check valves and enough clearance from hazards but you could get creative connecting both. You could probably connect both to the pressure sender as well.

12v electric solenoid hydraulic shutoff valves are available for about $20 each. With some form of timer you could use these to run the preoiler and make the switch over to the bypass flow after a predetermined amount of time.

 

[Tragic]

Ok, I really like the idea of using a sandwich adapter to both receive the output of the pre-oiler pump and supply the bypass filter, and I intend to do this. I also like the idea of returning the bypassed oil to the drain plug as well, however, I'm wondering whether this will really work. If I simply use a tee, then the pump will draw oil from both the pan and (to a much lessor extent) the bypass line. I wonder what the consequence would be if there is air in the lines, as I would expect if the bypass filter drains. Would it matter if the pump drew air through the bypass, albeit temporarily?

Why would I need a check valve to prevent backflushing the bypass filter, since the bypass return would be between the pan and the pump inlet?

This pre-oiler pump does have a built-in check valve as well.

Using a shutoff valve certainly seems to be an option, although I'd prefer to go a simpler route if possible.

First, since the return will be between the pan and the pump input, why would a check valve be needed to prevent bypass filter backwashing?

 

[Gary Allan]

I believe that your bypass won't siphon empty if you are tied in to the pan. There should be no place for air to get in. Now you may run the oil in the bypass return line around in a circle...but you have to draw from the pan since the filter cannot supply the demand of the pump.

That is, tie your outlet of the bypass to a hollow drain bolt ..it's T-eed into the preoiler too. The return is always submerged. Once the air is purged ..unless you have a leak ..it should remain full of oil. The pump will draw equally on the bypass return hose and the pan ..but the bypass hose will not supply enough feed due to the density of the filter ..it will draw from the pan.

Or so I reason.

 

[Tragic]

Gary,

Thanks a lot...that's exactly the answer I was looking for, and it does make sense.

Mike

 

[slalom44]

After rethinking your setup, I guess you don't need another check valve as long as you have a check valve on the prelube pump. But make sure that you hook up the preluber to the inlet port of your full-flow filter, not the outlet port. Otherwise, you will be backflushing your full-flow filter every time you run the prelube pump, and you will be pumping unfiltered oil from the bottom of your oilpan directly into your engine.

I also recommend that you install an oil pressure gauge (if you don't already have one) and make sure that it is plumbed into your system so that it measures the pressure post-filter. This way you know exactly how much oil pressure your engine is seeing when prelubing. And with all that extra plumbing, it's nice to be able to check that everything is running right.

Which prelube pump are you planning to use?

 

[Tragic]

Slalom, thanks for the reply. I will definitely be installing a pressure gauge post-filter. I'm planning on using one of these: Pre-luber

 

[Tragic]

If anyone is still there, I could definitely use some help in picking a sandwich adapter for the above set-up. What's got me confused is whether I should get one with a relief valve, and if so, why?

Regardless of whether the engine or pre-oiler pump is in operation, I'd like all oil not routed thru the bypass filter to flow thru the full-flow filter. It seems to me that all I need to do this is an adapter with an outlet & a pre-filter inlet. I don't see why I would need anything else.

Also, does every adapter have the same inlet/outlet routing, such as inlet before filter and outlet after?

 

[Gary Allan]

Hmmm...let my regroup here. Okay, you're returning to the pan ..no pressure environment. You just need a tap of the oil filter.

Nope. No need for a relief valve if I read your setup correctly.

You can use one of the Frantz style sandwich ..with the single outlet (small) port. Tee it just like you tee the suction for the preoiler and the return of the bypass. The oil will hit a virtual dead end with the bypass filter and the oil pump.

You could probably use a Permacool, since the relief port does pass an incredible amount of oil (I never would have believed it if I didn't experience it myself :shocked ..but the simple spacer would be the natural selection. Some guy on ebay has sandwich adapters (effectively, spacers) that have two 1/8" port on it. I don't know how it compares to the wefilterit.com offerings for price. A Permacool will cost you about $30 from just about anywhere. Maybe JCwhitney can get it delivered cheaper. You can always drill out the divider in it to provide 100% full flow under all conditions if it ends up being cheaper then the others.


Your sandwich adapters interrupt the flow from the engine. So it's engine - out port (or relief)- in port - filter - center threaded return to engine.

They are all intermediate spacers. The only difference if they have a divider so that the ports can route the flow to something else first before going to the filter.


Here's a Permacool with the relief port @ 3 o'clock. What you see @ 12 and 6 o'clock are plugs that I had to install due to the port passing way too much oil when it warmed up.

 

[OffOrWFO]

As another possible return location you could look at the turbo oil return line. There is usually a way to T into it without to much work.

 

[sifan]

Gary - As you mentioned the Frantz sandwich adaptor in your last message of this thread, it got me to re-think about installing the 1-qt Canton pre-oiler to my car. With the Frantz oil bypass filter in place I already have to add 1 extra qt of oil. So far my car's engine gracefully takes it during startup. Now if the pre-oiler were installed, I would need to add even more oil. This reminds me the horrorible experience of overfilling the engine with oil during my first failed attemp of installing Frantz bypass filter. Fortunately no damage was done to the engine at that time. Now I am thinking of taking the route of pre-luber instead of pre-oiler. If I interpret your last message correctly, I can just simply put a tee at my Frantz sandwich adaptor for the returned oil from the pre-luber, right?

Tragic - Could you keep us up with your progress on your installation?

 

[sifan]

I forgot to ask another question. As I read this entire thread, I am still not sure if it is ok to just put a tee at the oil drain plug for the oil bypass filer to return oil, and for the pre-luber to draw oil assuming they do not operate at the same time? Currently I return the oil from the Frantz oil bypass filter to the oil filler cap thru a swivel fitting. Even though the PCV valve is at the far end of the engine, I notice some oil has been sucked into PCV valve which requires more frequent cleaning on throttle body. I am now thinking of returing the oil from bypass to the oil drain plug.

 

[slalom44]

quote:

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Originally posted by sifan:
Now I am thinking of taking the route of pre-luber instead of pre-oiler.

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The term "Pre-luber" means the same thing as "Pre-oiler". I'm not sure what you're saying.

If you are referring to Canton's Accusump, this unit doesn't have a return line, so you don't have to put any tee at the drain plug. You only need a high-pressure port, like a sandwich adapter port.

 

[Gary Allan]

Yes (I'm with slalom44 here), you just need a pressure source. You would put it between your pressure tap and your bypass filter. When you hit the switch ..it would (effectively) dead head against the bypass filter and push its output into the engine (where ever you tapped your source from).

 

[LACTD]

By installing the Oilguard you are cutting the wear by 70%. How much more will the pre-luber decrease the wear?

 

[carock]

It is my understanding tht a preluber primarily helps the bearings. The pistons and valve gear don't receive much help from the preluber. If that is correct, then it may not be prudent to install a preluber with a bypass filter as the bearings may go 1,000,000 with the bypass installed.

 

[LarryL]

Are we headed to a BITOG ultimate setup. Let's see, a Frantz or MotorGuard bypass filter, a PureOne oil filter a Pre/Post lube system, an air/oil seperator on the pcv line, synthetic German Gold Castrol 0w-30 oil, oil heater glued to the pan, Lube Control added, a Frantz/MotorGuard fuel filter, a Frantz/MotorGuard automatic transmission filter, routine Dyson analysis, an annual Auto-RX treatment, coolant filter, drive careful, don't life where the weather is bad, only take long trips and wash the car every Saturday.