I am working on it!
Bypass Filter & Pre-luber Install
- Thread starter Tragic
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carock - In the winter I could hear the metal grinding sound from the pistons during engine startup. Wouldn't pre-lubing the engine remove the initial piston friction due to lack of lubrication?
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- Sep 28, 2002
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Do you mean for the preluber thingie? If that's convenient for you, sure. If not ..then just cut the line and insert your preluber where ever you want.
I don't recall what type of line you're running ...AT cooler line
If so ..then just plumb a T at the preluber ...fit your hose barbs to the T ..one leg goes to the sandwich ..the other to the bypass filter. It should work just fine that way.
I don't think you need to go to the expense of stainless. It's nice if you don't mind the added expense ..but you do pay a premium for it.
I don't recall what type of line you're running ...AT cooler line
I don't think you need to go to the expense of stainless. It's nice if you don't mind the added expense ..but you do pay a premium for it.
My setup is pretty close to the BITOG ultimate setup. I have an Amsoil BMK-13 Dual Remote Bypass filter with a Shurflo 3gpm Prelube pump.
An 8AN brass tee fitting (the kind you get at any hardware store for gas lines) screws right into the inlet to the BMK-13. I've had this setup for almost 2 years with no problems. The prelube pump is tapped into a hollow oilpan bolt, and the bypass filter is plumbed to and from the adapter located where the stock full-flow filter used to be.
The Shurflo diaphragm pump has a built-in check valve. I also installed an oil pressure gauge to make sure everything is working right. This entire setup was relatively inexpensive, too.
An 8AN brass tee fitting (the kind you get at any hardware store for gas lines) screws right into the inlet to the BMK-13. I've had this setup for almost 2 years with no problems. The prelube pump is tapped into a hollow oilpan bolt, and the bypass filter is plumbed to and from the adapter located where the stock full-flow filter used to be.
The Shurflo diaphragm pump has a built-in check valve. I also installed an oil pressure gauge to make sure everything is working right. This entire setup was relatively inexpensive, too.
Gary - Would you recommend an 1/4" stanless tee to be installed on my Frantz sandwich adaptor?
slalom44 - The ShurFlo 3gpm pump is designed as a water pump for RV.
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/shurflo-pumps.htm
Since oil is thicker than water, how long do you have to run this pump under extremely cold temp to pre-lube the engine without the help of external oil heating device like a heat pad on the oil pan?
http://www.pplmotorhomes.com/parts/rv-pumps-water/shurflo-pumps.htm
Since oil is thicker than water, how long do you have to run this pump under extremely cold temp to pre-lube the engine without the help of external oil heating device like a heat pad on the oil pan?
Using Amsoil Series 2000 0W30, it can take as long as around 20 seconds to get pressure on sub-zero winter days. I've had this setup on my car for 20,000 miles now without any problems.
http://theoildrop.server101.com/cgi/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=36;t=000222
I'll post pictures and a writeup of my setup in the next few weeks when I have some time.
I started to just point to my earlier posts but they scroll off the end, I find. Here's a schematic diagram of my preluber/bypass filter setup.
I think the plumbing is OK based on what I heard here. Hope the pictures help.
I think the plumbing is OK based on what I heard here. Hope the pictures help.
That looks like a great setup.
Thanks, slalom!
The other bits were a low cost bypass filter made from a hydraulic spin-on filter with proper beta ratings to qualify it as a 3 micron absolute (and that is by beta rating, not by the nominal or absolute claims that are thrown around by some filter makers)the matching spin on mount, and the marine lube pump and drain plug.
The marine lube pump was rated for hot oil, which is hard to find in simpler pumps, and was quite inexpensive.
I posted the tab for the whole mess here at the time. I can look it up if there's interest. The hydraulic filter/mount in particular was relatively cheap.
The other bits were a low cost bypass filter made from a hydraulic spin-on filter with proper beta ratings to qualify it as a 3 micron absolute (and that is by beta rating, not by the nominal or absolute claims that are thrown around by some filter makers)the matching spin on mount, and the marine lube pump and drain plug.
The marine lube pump was rated for hot oil, which is hard to find in simpler pumps, and was quite inexpensive.
I posted the tab for the whole mess here at the time. I can look it up if there's interest. The hydraulic filter/mount in particular was relatively cheap.
How do I determine how much more oil I should add to the engine with the installation of a pre-lube pump? When the pump stops, will the oil in the hoses flow back to the engine such that no additional oil should be added?
Since the prelube pump has a check valve (and if not, you need to add one), the oil won't flow back. In the unlikely event that the check valve seeps a little, check your oil level with a warm engine or run the prelube pump before checking the oil level. That will tell you the level with all passageways filled up.
I'll post the results of the install. I will be installing the pre-luber this weekend but am awaiting release of the latest oilguard housing/filter and have no definite date.
To summarize, the plan is to connect the pre-luber inlet to a hollow oil pan plug and the outlet to a sandwich adapter. The OIlguard will be fed by the same sandwich adapter and will return oil by way of a tee in the pre-luber supply line.
Sifan, the changes in oil level was one of the reasons I chose not to go with an accumulator despite liking the simplicity and the protection from starvation. It seemed that one properly sized for your engine would be safe but it also seemed largely guesswork as to what size that would be. Regardless, I main reason I went with the Pre-luber was to take advantage of the protection provided to the turbo. Accusump does have a accumulator-based turbo after-oiler, but combining that with an accumulator seemed to be sure trouble and it provides limited circulation.
To summarize, the plan is to connect the pre-luber inlet to a hollow oil pan plug and the outlet to a sandwich adapter. The OIlguard will be fed by the same sandwich adapter and will return oil by way of a tee in the pre-luber supply line.
Sifan, the changes in oil level was one of the reasons I chose not to go with an accumulator despite liking the simplicity and the protection from starvation. It seemed that one properly sized for your engine would be safe but it also seemed largely guesswork as to what size that would be. Regardless, I main reason I went with the Pre-luber was to take advantage of the protection provided to the turbo. Accusump does have a accumulator-based turbo after-oiler, but combining that with an accumulator seemed to be sure trouble and it provides limited circulation.
Where'd 70% come from?
The below linked SAE paper states in the conclusions that filtering down to 15 microns will reduce engine wear by 70 percent......
http://www.aeromag.net/images/how/SAE.pdf
http://www.aeromag.net/images/how/SAE.pdf
The article has to do with reducing engine wear with good oil filtering, but, it has nothing to do with engine wear from cold start. Well, it makes me feel good about my Frantz bypass filter, which can filter particles smaller than 1 micron with the TP.
I finally intalled the Pre-Luber kit yesterday just in time for the first freezing morning today. The newly installed Wolverine oil pan heat pad worked great with the Pre-Luber. After heating the oil to 175F in 35 minutes I turned the ignition and watched the dummy low oil pressure warning light go off in just few seconds. I think it also pre-filled the Frantz oil bypass filter becase I could hear oil gushing into the canister which is great. The Pre-Luber kit increases the oil capacity by 1 quart. Now my engine uses 6 quarts of oil. Besides the check valve I also installed a 3-way ball valve and a self-seal quick disconnect coupling on the output side of the pump, so, I can pump out the oil during oil change in the future. The electronic control module that came with the kit allows 40 seconds of pre-lubing when I turn the ignition. I think 40 seconds should be sufficient to pump out 6 quarts of oil with such a powerful pump. I was initially thinking of installing a manual toggle switch, but, decided to give up that idea.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Thanks everyone for the help.
Excellent Sifan! Have you done anything with your transmission? (I can't recall if you had a auto or standard).
Definately need some pictures of your whole setup.
Definately need some pictures of your whole setup.
My car has AT with a Frantz transmission bypass filter already installed.
I wish I have a digital camera to take some photos, but I don't have one yet. The pre-luber situates between the radiator and the front bumper.
I wish I have a digital camera to take some photos, but I don't have one yet. The pre-luber situates between the radiator and the front bumper.
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