Kinda needs to be a hatchback/wagon with fold-flattish seats. Love the pictures, though the first glance kind freaked me out.
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Buying a used Lexus RX300 (Oil gelling question)
- Thread starter HK_Ace
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As long as the oil has been changed on time, sludge is not a concern.
Has the transmission fluid been changed ever? Is it AWD or FWD? What about the timing belt, has it been changed?
My RX300 has been the most reliable vehicle that I've ever owned, and I've had more vehicles than I can count. Definitely my favorite purchase thus far.
Has the transmission fluid been changed ever? Is it AWD or FWD? What about the timing belt, has it been changed?
My RX300 has been the most reliable vehicle that I've ever owned, and I've had more vehicles than I can count. Definitely my favorite purchase thus far.
HK_Ace
Thread starter
Since it is an impounded vehicle, I have no idea about maintenance. I can get the VIN and ask my dealership buddy to run it, but that is all I can get. The only way I think I can make an offer is IF they let me take the vehicle to my friend at the Lexus dealership.
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
Thanks for the tip but I was referring to the oil pressure light.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
Thanks for the tip but I was referring to the oil pressure light.
A 1999 Sienna does not have a maintenance reminder.
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
Originally Posted By: KitaCam
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it... The oil light is what scared me away.
The Toyo oil light, if it's the MAINT REQD light, blinks on @ 4.5k and is on steadily @ 5k miles...
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Sludge was sitting on the baffle and around the cap itself. I know what to look for, check my sig.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Sludge was sitting on the baffle and around the cap itself. I know what to look for, check my sig.
Just asking.... Besides, the 1MZ-FE in your sig shouldn't be a sludge prone engine, and I did not know if the later engines had that gritty coating on the baffle (or had a baffle at all).
Still though, I will step out on a limb and say that "under the cap" isn't very reliable on this engine, I would want to pull the cover. But the light, if the system was working properly - is a bad sign. That often happens on a sludged up 1MZ-FE.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Sludge was sitting on the baffle and around the cap itself. I know what to look for, check my sig.
Still though, I will step out on a limb and say that "under the cap" isn't very reliable on this engine, I would want to pull the cover. But the light, if the system was working properly - is a bad sign. That often happens on a sludged up 1MZ-FE.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Originally Posted By: hypervish
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Where did you see the sludge under the oil cap? Actually in the cap itself? You can't see the valve train through the fill hole, just so you know. There is a baffle in the way and it has a gritty black coating on it.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
I just turned down a 1999 Sienna for $2000 "AS-IS" with 185k kms.. There was sludge under the oil cap and the oil light would turn on and off while test driving it. Everything under the hood looked original except for the battery, starter motor and oil filter. Engine sounded ok and the van drove nice though. The oil light is what scared me away.
+1, there is a baffle. Not sure how you saw sludge through a baffle.
Sludge was sitting on the baffle and around the cap itself. I know what to look for, check my sig.
You're right, mine is not prone to sludge, just the crusties on the baffle (which I've cleaned away). Having mine to compare with helped make my decision. Part of me is saying I should have taken a risk at cleaning it out and hope for the best, oh well, too late now.
Well, the black crusty/gritty coating on the baffle is supposed to be there, what it is for is anybody's guess (sound deadening, etc.) Assuming that is what you are talking about of course.
The reason I said that looking under the cap isn't reliable is because the gelling takes place on the head where the temperature is high. The inside of the cap (and on that baffle surface) is cooler, and generally only will display condensation related goop. I have seen a sludged 1MZ-FE and there was no indication of the mess under the cap. But when you pulled the cover...
Also the back bank runs a lot hotter than the front. I have had occasion to remove the exhaust system for various maintenance activities, and the mating surface on the manifold is pitted and heat damaged for the back bank (also on the pipe flange) but not on the front bank. It is clear that that back bank runs a whole lot hotter than does the front. It would probably be best to pull the cover on the back if you were really wanting to search for sludge, but no one does that due to the additional labor required to get that cover off.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
You're right, mine is not prone to sludge, just the crusties on the baffle (which I've cleaned away). Having mine to compare with helped make my decision. Part of me is saying I should have taken a risk at cleaning it out and hope for the best, oh well, too late now.
The reason I said that looking under the cap isn't reliable is because the gelling takes place on the head where the temperature is high. The inside of the cap (and on that baffle surface) is cooler, and generally only will display condensation related goop. I have seen a sludged 1MZ-FE and there was no indication of the mess under the cap. But when you pulled the cover...
Also the back bank runs a lot hotter than the front. I have had occasion to remove the exhaust system for various maintenance activities, and the mating surface on the manifold is pitted and heat damaged for the back bank (also on the pipe flange) but not on the front bank. It is clear that that back bank runs a whole lot hotter than does the front. It would probably be best to pull the cover on the back if you were really wanting to search for sludge, but no one does that due to the additional labor required to get that cover off.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
You're right, mine is not prone to sludge, just the crusties on the baffle (which I've cleaned away). Having mine to compare with helped make my decision. Part of me is saying I should have taken a risk at cleaning it out and hope for the best, oh well, too late now.
Originally Posted By: HK_Ace
Since it is an impounded vehicle, I have no idea about maintenance. I can get the VIN and ask my dealership buddy to run it, but that is all I can get. The only way I think I can make an offer is IF they let me take the vehicle to my friend at the Lexus dealership.
Assume limited maintenance. Run the Vin at the dealer. Buy a carfax for it too. Then offer the guy $3000 cash. Just make sure it runs and sounds ok first. Start it, let it warm up all the way and drive it around his lot to make sure the trans shifts ok.
Since it is an impounded vehicle, I have no idea about maintenance. I can get the VIN and ask my dealership buddy to run it, but that is all I can get. The only way I think I can make an offer is IF they let me take the vehicle to my friend at the Lexus dealership.
Assume limited maintenance. Run the Vin at the dealer. Buy a carfax for it too. Then offer the guy $3000 cash. Just make sure it runs and sounds ok first. Start it, let it warm up all the way and drive it around his lot to make sure the trans shifts ok.
Last edited:
I've been able to tell by the dipstick on one 1MZ-FE in a 99' Sienna, that's how badly sludged it was. I purchased the 98' Sienna instead.
The newer 1MZ-FE's have a baffle as well, my ES has the updated version of the 1MZ-FE and it has a baffle.
The newer 1MZ-FE's have a baffle as well, my ES has the updated version of the 1MZ-FE and it has a baffle.
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: HK_Ace
Since it is an impounded vehicle, I have no idea about maintenance. I can get the VIN and ask my dealership buddy to run it, but that is all I can get. The only way I think I can make an offer is IF they let me take the vehicle to my friend at the Lexus dealership.
Assume limited maintenance. Run the Vin at the dealer. Buy a carfax for it too. Then offer the guy $3000 cash. Just make sure it runs and sounds ok first. Start it, let it warm up all the way and drive it around his lot to make sure the trans shifts ok.
You can input the VIN yourself on the lexus website and retrieve all service history.
Originally Posted By: HK_Ace
Since it is an impounded vehicle, I have no idea about maintenance. I can get the VIN and ask my dealership buddy to run it, but that is all I can get. The only way I think I can make an offer is IF they let me take the vehicle to my friend at the Lexus dealership.
Assume limited maintenance. Run the Vin at the dealer. Buy a carfax for it too. Then offer the guy $3000 cash. Just make sure it runs and sounds ok first. Start it, let it warm up all the way and drive it around his lot to make sure the trans shifts ok.
You can input the VIN yourself on the lexus website and retrieve all service history.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
Well, the black crusty/gritty coating on the baffle is supposed to be there, what it is for is anybody's guess (sound deadening, etc.) Assuming that is what you are talking about of course.
The reason I said that looking under the cap isn't reliable is because the gelling takes place on the head where the temperature is high. The inside of the cap (and on that baffle surface) is cooler, and generally only will display condensation related goop. I have seen a sludged 1MZ-FE and there was no indication of the mess under the cap. But when you pulled the cover...
Also the back bank runs a lot hotter than the front. I have had occasion to remove the exhaust system for various maintenance activities, and the mating surface on the manifold is pitted and heat damaged for the back bank (also on the pipe flange) but not on the front bank. It is clear that that back bank runs a whole lot hotter than does the front. It would probably be best to pull the cover on the back if you were really wanting to search for sludge, but no one does that due to the additional labor required to get that cover off.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
You're right, mine is not prone to sludge, just the crusties on the baffle (which I've cleaned away). Having mine to compare with helped make my decision. Part of me is saying I should have taken a risk at cleaning it out and hope for the best, oh well, too late now.
Thanks for the info. As I mentioned earlier, it was the on and off of the oil pressure light that scared me away plus, the timing covers looked like they had never been off so, timing belt needed to be done too on a questionable engine.
Well, the black crusty/gritty coating on the baffle is supposed to be there, what it is for is anybody's guess (sound deadening, etc.) Assuming that is what you are talking about of course.
The reason I said that looking under the cap isn't reliable is because the gelling takes place on the head where the temperature is high. The inside of the cap (and on that baffle surface) is cooler, and generally only will display condensation related goop. I have seen a sludged 1MZ-FE and there was no indication of the mess under the cap. But when you pulled the cover...
Also the back bank runs a lot hotter than the front. I have had occasion to remove the exhaust system for various maintenance activities, and the mating surface on the manifold is pitted and heat damaged for the back bank (also on the pipe flange) but not on the front bank. It is clear that that back bank runs a whole lot hotter than does the front. It would probably be best to pull the cover on the back if you were really wanting to search for sludge, but no one does that due to the additional labor required to get that cover off.
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
You're right, mine is not prone to sludge, just the crusties on the baffle (which I've cleaned away). Having mine to compare with helped make my decision. Part of me is saying I should have taken a risk at cleaning it out and hope for the best, oh well, too late now.
Thanks for the info. As I mentioned earlier, it was the on and off of the oil pressure light that scared me away plus, the timing covers looked like they had never been off so, timing belt needed to be done too on a questionable engine.
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