Busted control arm bolt. DIY or not?

[Kurtatron]

I recently bought this car. It came like this. This bolt is normally torqued to about 101 ft lbs. I was thinking of using an irwin extractor bolt kit, but I think it may just fracture while trying to loosen it, compounding things further. I live in an apartment and have limited access to tools.

I have a drill and some bits, plus penetrating fluid. I don’t have a torch, welding, or any other power tools. Should I even bother or take this to a mechanic?

 

[Jetronic]

You can use the bolt extractor, if that fails it's mechanic time. It won't make the job much harder for the mech. I'd grind it clean, weld a big nut on and thread it out. a bit of bolt extractor won't interfere with that

 

[Rogueman2016s]

saturate with a good penetrating oil and get yourself an extractor on an impact driver

 

[GSCJR]

Save yourself a lot of aggravation, and take it to a shop. Find one that can also do an alignment afterwards.

 

[supton]

I’m voting, time for a mechanic. It’ll be done fast and over with. Worth the money.

 

[AZjeff]

If you don't mind some aggravation with your limited resources give it a go keeping in mind you'll likely end up at a mechanic.

 

[Kurtatron]

Yeah, I am leaning towards mechanic. Maybe if I had a garage I would attempt this, but I may as well help pay a mechanic’s livelihood.

 

[GSCJR]

Yes, too many unknows plus, a potential ride on a tow truck just adding to the cost.

 

[vavavroom]

I would try to drill a small hole into the bolt to see if I can get a screw extractor started. I've done this a few times and it's worked every time but it is nerve-wrecking.

You will need penetrating fluid, a center punch, cobalt drill bits, preferably lefthanded ones, a screw extractor set, and a strong electric drill. I used a 20V DeWalt.

If you don't have the tools it's probably cheaper to have a pro remove the bolt.

 

[WobblyElvis]

Can you drive it like that? I say take it to a shop.

 

[Kurtatron]

I would try to drill a small hole into the bolt to see if I can get a screw extractor started. I've done this a few times and it's worked every time but it is nerve-wrecking.

You will need penetrating fluid, a center punch, cobalt drill bits, preferably lefthanded ones, a screw extractor set, and a strong electric drill. I used a 20V DeWalt.

If you don't have the tools it's probably cheaper to have a pro remove the bolt.

I am afraid cause this thing is torqued to 101 foot pounds. I am skeptical that an extractor will be able to survive it. Maybe I’ll ask the shop what they did after they finish.

 

[spasm3]

I don't see any use in struggling with an extractor. It's easy enough for a shop to weld a nut on and get the bolt out.

 

[vavavroom]

I am afraid cause this thing is torqued to 101 foot pounds. I am skeptical that an extractor will be able to survive it. Maybe I’ll ask the shop what they did after they finish.

What is the bolt's diameter?

 

[michaelluscher]

Too many cost, failure, and injury variables here

Take it to the shop.

 

[Exhaustgases]

Control arm? with that photo we have no idea what we are looking at!

The lack of any scratched paint below that broke what ever deal, makes one wonder what it is.

Maybe the head of a bolt fit up into that hole in that very thin material?

It almost looks like that is a sub frame mounting point? You will need a person that knows what they are doing to remove that.

 

[Kurtatron]

Control arm? with that photo we have no idea what we are looking at!

The lack of any scratched paint below that broke what ever deal, makes one wonder what it is.

Maybe the head of a bolt fit up into that hole in that very thin material?

It almost looks like that is a sub frame mounting point? You will need a person that knows what they are doing to remove that.

It’s no. 7 in the diagram.

 

[JHZR2]

Save yourself a lot of aggravation, and take it to a shop. Find one that can also do an alignment afterwards.

Agree. At home if one has space and time ok, but at an apartment without the right tools it doesn’t make sense. Get it out, replaced, aligned and done.

 

[JTK]

Is the captive nut part of the subframe or is it welded into the unibody?

 

[michaelluscher]

Is the captive nut part of the subframe or is it welded into the unibody?

As per the schematic, it's a separate nut on top of the subframe

 

[Astro14]

I am afraid cause this thing is torqued to 101 foot pounds. I am skeptical that an extractor will be able to survive it. Maybe I’ll ask the shop what they did after they finish.

The issue won’t be the installed torque, because, without the head, that torque is effectively zero.

But the fact that it is still there, and really rusted, suggests that it is rusted in place. It’s been broken for a while.

So, take it to a shop. A large diameter bolt like that, rusted in place, will take a lot of torque to overcome the rust. The heat from welding a nut on there will help with breaking it free.