Hey Guys - Just bought a pair of Buell Ulysses, one has 1300 miles and one has 3100 miles. Neither has synthetics yet...would like to get both on Synthetics as soon as possible. Am leaning towards Amsoil 20-50 Synthetic....is that a good choice? Any other synthetics recommendations for Buells?
Buell XB12X/T Synthetics - Need help choosing
- Thread starter WildBillC
- Start date
- Status
Amsoil 20W-50 MCV has proven to be a great MC oil. Low resistance to shear and very low wear numbers. The crowd here may try to steer you to lower cost oils, but they never with any proof can say these oils are in any way superior.
Amsoil 20W-50 MCV BITOG Sponsor LINK
Amsoil 20W-50 MCV BITOG Sponsor LINK
Erik Buell chose AMSOIL and had this to say.
“AMSOIL is a great story of American engineering and entrepreneurship, and we are very proud that they recognize similar characteristics in our new motorcycle company and have chosen to work with us,” said Erik Buell, “They were the first company to introduce synthetic oils to the consumer market, and have become recognized throughout the industry as a leader in lubrication technology.”
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/790/9218/M...ner-in-AMA.aspx .
“AMSOIL is a great story of American engineering and entrepreneurship, and we are very proud that they recognize similar characteristics in our new motorcycle company and have chosen to work with us,” said Erik Buell, “They were the first company to introduce synthetic oils to the consumer market, and have become recognized throughout the industry as a leader in lubrication technology.”
http://www.motorcycle-usa.com/790/9218/M...ner-in-AMA.aspx .
Last edited:
They make a 60wt too. Would that be ideal for a Californian summer on a Harley-Davidson engine?
I've got 46k miles on my Sportster running M1 V-Twin 20w-50. Everything from Highway in 90+F to idling in a traffic jam at the same 90+F. Works if at 35F too, but I try to avoid that.
No Syns for me!!!! I'll stick with the UOAs that show Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn for half the price, performing as well or better than Amsoil and Mobil 1 Vtwin.
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional. Good Luck with your decision.
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional. Good Luck with your decision.
Originally Posted By: OnTheFence
No Syns for me!!!! I'll stick with the UOAs that show Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn for half the price, performing as well or better than Amsoil and Mobil 1 Vtwin.
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional. Good Luck with your decision.
As I am sure you know, UOA does not indicate the "wear rate" of an engine. In fact, synthetics have been shown to result in longer engine life and far fewer oil related problems. Including comparatively minor things like stuck or sticky piston rings due to carbon. Same goes for valve guides and carbon build up. I've been a rider, licensed racer and engine builder for nearly half a century. Some of the advances we see today are oil related and not "material related". In other words, chrome faced rings running in an iron bore really have not changed much in years. Yet they last longer today. Why? Good oils share some of the credit.
And, of course you already know that air cooled engines can be hard on oils. I'd like to believe that where you ride, how you ride and what oil you chose will have an affect on overall lifespan. I typically choose quality synthetics to help reduce problems related to the severe operating conditions I generally create.
However, you are 100% correct, Harley riders have been accumulating massive numbers of miles on conventional oils, often without any problems what so ever.
Mobil 1, 20W-50 is a very stout oil, with high levels of additives. Plus it's available locally. I use it in my high boost turbo road race engines with stellar results.
No Syns for me!!!! I'll stick with the UOAs that show Valvoline VR1 and Brad Penn for half the price, performing as well or better than Amsoil and Mobil 1 Vtwin.
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional. Good Luck with your decision.
As I am sure you know, UOA does not indicate the "wear rate" of an engine. In fact, synthetics have been shown to result in longer engine life and far fewer oil related problems. Including comparatively minor things like stuck or sticky piston rings due to carbon. Same goes for valve guides and carbon build up. I've been a rider, licensed racer and engine builder for nearly half a century. Some of the advances we see today are oil related and not "material related". In other words, chrome faced rings running in an iron bore really have not changed much in years. Yet they last longer today. Why? Good oils share some of the credit.
And, of course you already know that air cooled engines can be hard on oils. I'd like to believe that where you ride, how you ride and what oil you chose will have an affect on overall lifespan. I typically choose quality synthetics to help reduce problems related to the severe operating conditions I generally create.
However, you are 100% correct, Harley riders have been accumulating massive numbers of miles on conventional oils, often without any problems what so ever.
Mobil 1, 20W-50 is a very stout oil, with high levels of additives. Plus it's available locally. I use it in my high boost turbo road race engines with stellar results.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Cujet
As I am sure you know, UOA does not indicate the "wear rate" of an engine. In fact, synthetics have been shown to result in longer engine life and far fewer oil related problems.
I understand your point. But, until I have or meet someone who has had an oil related problem on anything built this centry using Conventional or Synthetic oils of today, I am just not convinced that synthetics are necessary for an air cooled Vtwin.
I'll defer to experts as to why a UOA doesn't prove anything. Seems kinda crazy that they don't mean anything but a whole bulletin board is dedicated to it.
As I am sure you know, UOA does not indicate the "wear rate" of an engine. In fact, synthetics have been shown to result in longer engine life and far fewer oil related problems.
I understand your point. But, until I have or meet someone who has had an oil related problem on anything built this centry using Conventional or Synthetic oils of today, I am just not convinced that synthetics are necessary for an air cooled Vtwin.
I'll defer to experts as to why a UOA doesn't prove anything. Seems kinda crazy that they don't mean anything but a whole bulletin board is dedicated to it.
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OnTheFence
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional.
We will need some proof for this claim.
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional.
We will need some proof for this claim.
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: OnTheFence
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional.
We will need some proof for this claim.
Ok. Well Let's see. I can speak from my experience and personal observations. This is limited to two specific bikes. And my data would be speaking of "Measured Oil Temps".
The two bikes are 08 and 09 96" Harleys. Both Got filled with Harley's Syn3 when the oil temp guages were installed. The following fill was Mobil 1 V-twin. Summer temps in the mid high 90's would run 220 on the open road. Once hitting stop and go the oil temp would hit 230-240. The temp would stick at 230-240, until it was shut off.
Down the road, 1 bike got a fill of VR1 the second Brad Penn. Each would run around 220 in the mid high 90s on open road. Once hitting stop and go, each would eventually get to 230. Once back on the open road the temps would drop back down to 220.
So it may be a bit of a play on words that the bike is running cooler. But, my data shows that at least two synthetics once heated don't seem to dissipate the heat in the oil pan. Like the two conventionals did.
During part of this one bike was on conventional and the other on Mobil 1. We could pull up to a stop lights and watch two guages. The Mobil was always the first to peak temp. Then when both bikes had conventional. They were spot on oil readings.
I have put a lot of effort into making sure I am comparing apples to apples when doing my testing. Anybody can ride with me and we can compare oils and readings. I have nothing to gain by stating what I have observered. In the end my observations were the exact opposite of what I suspected. My oil temps were supposed to be 20 degrees higher when I ran the conventionals.
I see you are an amsoil dealer. What kind of pan temps do you see on your bike?
Originally Posted By: OnTheFence
Besides you bike will run cooler on Conventional.
We will need some proof for this claim.
Ok. Well Let's see. I can speak from my experience and personal observations. This is limited to two specific bikes. And my data would be speaking of "Measured Oil Temps".
The two bikes are 08 and 09 96" Harleys. Both Got filled with Harley's Syn3 when the oil temp guages were installed. The following fill was Mobil 1 V-twin. Summer temps in the mid high 90's would run 220 on the open road. Once hitting stop and go the oil temp would hit 230-240. The temp would stick at 230-240, until it was shut off.
Down the road, 1 bike got a fill of VR1 the second Brad Penn. Each would run around 220 in the mid high 90s on open road. Once hitting stop and go, each would eventually get to 230. Once back on the open road the temps would drop back down to 220.
So it may be a bit of a play on words that the bike is running cooler. But, my data shows that at least two synthetics once heated don't seem to dissipate the heat in the oil pan. Like the two conventionals did.
During part of this one bike was on conventional and the other on Mobil 1. We could pull up to a stop lights and watch two guages. The Mobil was always the first to peak temp. Then when both bikes had conventional. They were spot on oil readings.
I have put a lot of effort into making sure I am comparing apples to apples when doing my testing. Anybody can ride with me and we can compare oils and readings. I have nothing to gain by stating what I have observered. In the end my observations were the exact opposite of what I suspected. My oil temps were supposed to be 20 degrees higher when I ran the conventionals.
I see you are an amsoil dealer. What kind of pan temps do you see on your bike?
Interesting input. Thanks.
I don't have a 4T bike.
I don't have a 4T bike.
OK team, thanks for the input. This is what I did...scrounged the internet and found a local AMSOIL distributor. No AMSOIL filters available, so got a WIX at the recommendation of the AMSOIL guy.
Put 20-50 AMSOIL in the engine and transmission. At first, no change.
Wow. 300 miles later it rides like a different bike. The quaking Harley Engine smoothed out, idles better, revs higher and faster. Cooling fan runs less. Gas mileage went from 32 to 45 MPG. Transmission nicks like a new rice grinder, has a smoother feel, and WHOA...I can actually find neutral, Without a doubt, the Buell is more fun to ride now.
All I can say is WOW! What a difference. OK, I'm a believer.
AMSOIL works wonders on Buell XB12's. I'm putting it in all my scooters.
Thanks for your help guys. Happy ending here.
Wild Bill
Put 20-50 AMSOIL in the engine and transmission. At first, no change.
Wow. 300 miles later it rides like a different bike. The quaking Harley Engine smoothed out, idles better, revs higher and faster. Cooling fan runs less. Gas mileage went from 32 to 45 MPG. Transmission nicks like a new rice grinder, has a smoother feel, and WHOA...I can actually find neutral, Without a doubt, the Buell is more fun to ride now.
All I can say is WOW! What a difference. OK, I'm a believer.
AMSOIL works wonders on Buell XB12's. I'm putting it in all my scooters.
Thanks for your help guys. Happy ending here.
Wild Bill
Originally Posted By: WildBillC
OK team, thanks for the input. This is what I did...scrounged the internet and found a local AMSOIL distributor. No AMSOIL filters available, so got a WIX at the recommendation of the AMSOIL guy.
Put 20-50 AMSOIL in the engine and transmission. At first, no change.
Wow. 300 miles later it rides like a different bike. The quaking Harley Engine smoothed out, idles better, revs higher and faster. Cooling fan runs less. Gas mileage went from 32 to 45 MPG. Transmission nicks like a new rice grinder, has a smoother feel, and WHOA...I can actually find neutral, Without a doubt, the Buell is more fun to ride now. All I can say is WOW! What a difference. OK, I'm a believer.
AMSOIL works wonders on Buell XB12's. I'm putting it in all my scooters.
Thanks for your help guys. Happy ending here.
Wild Bill
Wow!! Are you planing on switching all of you gear (Cars, Boats, Weed Eaters, Lawmowers.) ? Sounds like you found the holy grail.
OK team, thanks for the input. This is what I did...scrounged the internet and found a local AMSOIL distributor. No AMSOIL filters available, so got a WIX at the recommendation of the AMSOIL guy.
Put 20-50 AMSOIL in the engine and transmission. At first, no change.
Wow. 300 miles later it rides like a different bike. The quaking Harley Engine smoothed out, idles better, revs higher and faster. Cooling fan runs less. Gas mileage went from 32 to 45 MPG. Transmission nicks like a new rice grinder, has a smoother feel, and WHOA...I can actually find neutral, Without a doubt, the Buell is more fun to ride now. All I can say is WOW! What a difference. OK, I'm a believer.
AMSOIL works wonders on Buell XB12's. I'm putting it in all my scooters.
Thanks for your help guys. Happy ending here.
Wild Bill
Wow!! Are you planing on switching all of you gear (Cars, Boats, Weed Eaters, Lawmowers.) ? Sounds like you found the holy grail.
I have on one of my Harley's that when I switched from conventional to synthetic (Amsoil 20-50), my oil consumption was drastically reduced. Now I rarely add any oil. According to my oil temp gauge, it also runs cooler.
On the 97 Sportster I run it in the engine and tranny. Shifts good now and no problem finding netural.
On the wife's bike (Honda Shadow), when I switched from conventional to synthetic (Rotella 5w-40), she says the top end is quieter (I feel the same), and the fan (liquid cooled) doesn't come on anywhere like it used to.
On the 97 Sportster I run it in the engine and tranny. Shifts good now and no problem finding netural.
On the wife's bike (Honda Shadow), when I switched from conventional to synthetic (Rotella 5w-40), she says the top end is quieter (I feel the same), and the fan (liquid cooled) doesn't come on anywhere like it used to.
- Status