Briggs recomends 5-30dino only below 40 degreesF

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Had a Murray's counter guy tell me once that my lawn mower would "last forever" if I used synthetic oil. Also referred to BITOG while talking to me.....

John
 
those engines have pretty loose tolerances - oil consumption can be fairly high with 5W-30 dino as its NOACK volatility is pretty high and it shears fairly quickly. the more stable molecules in synthetic keep it from boiling/burning as quickly
 
I had a left over bottle of Esso Syn 5w30, it was time to change oil in the mower (a Briggs). I dumped in the synthetic and was really surprised. Started easier, and uses less gas. I had used the same oil in my 2000 F150 and honestly never noticed that big of a difference. But the Briggs seems to love the stuff.
 
I am no expert but here is what I have done. I have a 14 horse vanguard twin and for the first 400 hours I just ran plain old
30 weight case oil. I dont know who made it either. Then, I ran out and started running mobil 1 5w 30 blue cap oil. I have run the snot out of this thing and there is no oil consumption. I run it in hot temps and cant tell the difference other than it starts better when its real cold out.

I honestly think all of the talk of oil is over rated as long as you change it and the filter every now an then. These engines are a lot better these days. The oil is also better no matter what you run. Just change it out now and then and you will be ok no matter what brand of engine or oil. Just my two cents.
 
nomochevys you put it in the best terms,"just change it out every now and then" I love it.....
LOL.gif
 
My new Briggs V-Twin sheared a 30wt conventional to a 20 wt in one hour.

I was even crazy enough to test the oil for the fun of it.

yea..syn is the way to go to prevent shearing if nothing else.
 
I just changed the oil and filter in my 7.0 HP Briggs InTek push mower engine with Quaker State Conventional 10W-30 and a PURE One filter(Yes, my push mower has an oil filter; It is awesome!). Noticed right away that it only will take 2 pulls to start(Used to take 7!) and doesnt beltch white smoke when I start it.
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
nomochevys you put it in the best terms,"just change it out every now and then" I love it.....
LOL.gif



Well, people get anal about oil and so forth but think about how many xyz engines be it a chevy, ford, briggs, kohler or what ever than ran forever on just who knows what changed every now and then. Engines will run a long time if your just somewhat reasonable with changing oil and not abusing them. It dont matter what brand it is either imo. People take this stuff to the extreme but in the real world it really does not matter becasue most of us will be dead by the time we kill off our engines.
 
"Had a Murray's counter guy tell me once that my lawn mower would 'last forever' if I used synthetic oil. Also referred to BITOG while talking to me ..."

That's very generic advice ... but pretty much on the money. Briggs in their infinite simplicity, recommended straight 30 weights for decades. As they (and other manufacturers) have made their engines cheaper and more fragile, starting them in sub-freezing weather with a straight 30 weight can cause things to fail. So now they have recently updated their recommendations to be current as of the 1980s.

Truth is, synthetic PCMOs will shear down (often by design) almost as much as a 'conventional' oil and they have to be monitored so you don't burn them off and run the engine out of oil.

"Is it safe to mix SAE 30 and 10w30 in a mower engine?"

Yes.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
"Had a Murray's counter guy tell me once that my lawn mower would 'last forever' if I used synthetic oil. Also referred to BITOG while talking to me ..."

That's very generic advice ... but pretty much on the money. Briggs in their infinite simplicity, recommended straight 30 weights for decades. As they (and other manufacturers) have made their engines cheaper and more fragile, starting them in sub-freezing weather with a straight 30 weight can cause things to fail. So now they have recently updated their recommendations to be current as of the 1980s.

Truth is, synthetic PCMOs will shear down (often by design) almost as much as a 'conventional' oil and they have to be monitored so you don't burn them off and run the engine out of oil.

"Is it safe to mix SAE 30 and 10w30 in a mower engine?"

Yes.

My Briggs is a 05 model the last year rated in HP. Anyway it recommends sae30. Which I used for 3 years. It hit me one day that I mulch leaves in November sometimes the temp could be in the low 40's. It made allot of sense to switch to Motorcraft syn blend 10w30,for more temp coverage. Makes me wonder why Briggs recommends sae30 when 10w30 gives you better coverage?
 
"Makes me wonder why Briggs recommends SAE 30 when 10w30 gives you better coverage?

Ignorance? Laziness? Apathy? I think straight 30 worked most of the time in most applications so they never bothered to change it.

Then they probably got complaints about their newer engines in cold weather, woke up and decide to update their recommendations. Still, they are kinda KISS to the extreme. A synthetic 5W-30 will burn off in a loose engine ... almost as much as a dino 5W-30.
 
Originally Posted By: Bror Jace
"Makes me wonder why Briggs recommends SAE 30 when 10w30 gives you better coverage?

Ignorance? Laziness? Apathy? I think straight 30 worked most of the time in most applications so they never bothered to change it.

Then they probably got complaints about their newer engines in cold weather, woke up and decide to update their recommendations. Still, they are kinda KISS to the extreme. A synthetic 5W-30 will burn off in a loose engine ... almost as much as a dino 5W-30.



A synthetic 5W-30 will burn off in a loose engine ... almost as much as a dino 5W-30.

I would certainly think so.
 
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