Hi, I have a few questions. Let me start by telling you that I am in the process of rebuilding a 8 horsepower briggs and stratton. I am going to have the crank machined and polished .020" U.S., new rod, .030" O.S piston and Rings, new valves, most everything will be new. When I am finished the compression ratio will be lowered by having two head gaskets installed, The reason for this is it be operated on koresene (diesel) but will have to be warmed up on gas. My question is what would be the best oil to use that is diesel rated and still be a good safe oil for this engine for break-in. Also what diesel rated oil would be best for this engine after break-in.
Break-In oil?
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Rotella-T SAE 30 or Delo 400 SAE 30.
For "off road" use, you don't have to pay highway taxes. In Orygun, that's $.24/gal. (or was a couple years ago)
Have you seen the signs that say "PUC Diesel"?
Chances are it's on a farm with a lot of diesel equipment.
As far as power loss, how much? Diesel has more BTU/gal. I'm sure he has enough power for his application.
There was a post from Gurkha (sp?) in India a couple months ago about a diesel powered Honda generator. Sometimes diesel is a viable and/or logical alternative, depending where you live.
Have you seen the signs that say "PUC Diesel"?
Chances are it's on a farm with a lot of diesel equipment.
As far as power loss, how much? Diesel has more BTU/gal. I'm sure he has enough power for his application.
There was a post from Gurkha (sp?) in India a couple months ago about a diesel powered Honda generator. Sometimes diesel is a viable and/or logical alternative, depending where you live.
I am a diesel nut thats why I want a diesel lawn mower. To answer the reply about losingf power I am told that I will only lose like 10% of the power that gasoline would produce.
wouldnt you need more compression to burn diesel?
May be wrong but I'd be suprised if it even runs, if it runs I'd be suprised if it survives. There are big differences between gas and diesel engines. For example a diesel engine speed is controlled by metring the fuel, airflow is always wide open. Gas engine is controlled by metering the air. Diesel combustion is violent like detonation in a gas engine, parts are made heavy to deal with it. Good example is some of the efforts by GM to convert gas engines to diesel, didn't turn out to good even with beefing thing up best they could. It takes a lot of compression to make diesel fuel produce any power, some of the multi fuel trucks the army has are, well, gutless at best, way more than 10% loss of power.
That's a *REALLY* bad idea. A diesel lawnmower would be cool, but that is not what you would have. You'd have a gas lawnmower poorly running on the wrong fuel. You will loose more than 10%, from the compression loss alone. Trying to burn diesel fuel through spark ignition will leave you with even less power. The engine will also probably get ALOT of carbon buildup very quickly. Not to mention the annoyance of having to start it on gas and then switch to diesel...
They used to run cars on kerosene in WWII when gas was rationed. IIRC, you had to heat it up pretty hot so it'd vaporize. Diesel is just a step further. What the OP says about starting it on gas makes sense to me. Will see if I can rustle up some articles...
How about trying a 50/50 mix?
Hmmmm. Maybe 50 % Diesel, 50 % alcohol.
Fix
Hmmmm. Maybe 50 % Diesel, 50 % alcohol.
Fix
The idea of running on kerosene or diesel is not crazy...I have a Briggs repair manual about 15 years old that specifies which models can run with 2 headgaskets for kerosene operation and which ones need a special head. Good luck!
Diesel and Kerosene have 25 to 45 Octane depending on phase of the moon and your source of information. Old engines that ran on kerosene typically had compression ratios under 4:1
Sounds like an interesting experiment, but don't expect much. I doubt that an extra head gasket will even get you in the ballpark.
Kersosene will work a lot better than diesel. I doubt you would be able to get #2 diesel to work at all with out some advanced trickery, a lot more than just lowering the compression ratio.
Sounds like an interesting experiment, but don't expect much. I doubt that an extra head gasket will even get you in the ballpark.
Kersosene will work a lot better than diesel. I doubt you would be able to get #2 diesel to work at all with out some advanced trickery, a lot more than just lowering the compression ratio.
I have an OLD B&S too that states you can run on number 1 fuel oil.
No doubt about it, it will run. Most stock Briggs engines will run on diesel once they're warm, although the carb has to be adjusted so as to not have a giant mesquito fogger. Most stock flathead engines are only around 6:1 compression. The problem is you have no power and the engine doesn't last very long. The only reason to run diesel is if gas isn't available...
This is an interesting thread.
Silly? Perhaps.
Practical? Not in the least.
BITOG? Most definitely!
If I was trying to go this route, I’d start with a blend of fuels and move slowly towards 100% diesel or kerosene watching for signs of poor running, fouling of plugs, valves, etc ... along the way.
I knew a guy about 20 years ago who was in his 70s back then. I can’t imagine he’s still around today. But he told me he drove a Model T or Model A (I think) and would get it running using gasoline first thing in the morning then run it all day on kerosene because it was cheaper.
O, and as for break-in, try searching this thread using the phrase “break in.”
--- Bror Jace
Silly? Perhaps.
Practical? Not in the least.
BITOG? Most definitely!
If I was trying to go this route, I’d start with a blend of fuels and move slowly towards 100% diesel or kerosene watching for signs of poor running, fouling of plugs, valves, etc ... along the way.
I knew a guy about 20 years ago who was in his 70s back then. I can’t imagine he’s still around today. But he told me he drove a Model T or Model A (I think) and would get it running using gasoline first thing in the morning then run it all day on kerosene because it was cheaper.
O, and as for break-in, try searching this thread using the phrase “break in.”
--- Bror Jace
Try Havoline straight 30 weight Heavy Duty. I don't think you can go wrong with it! Just an opinion.
Very cool project!
I understand a flathead motor will you well on koresene once the motor is good and warm.
For the oil I would use an HD30 with some GM E.O.S in it for the break-in then something like Rotella T 5W40 the rest of the time.
For the oil I would use an HD30 with some GM E.O.S in it for the break-in then something like Rotella T 5W40 the rest of the time.
I would like to give thanks for all that viewed my topic and to the posters that gave me there two cents worth. I would like to say thanks for the link bill.also thanks for the help KW.
My dad has a 1937 John Deere Model A. This an all fuel model with a small tank for gasoline and the main tank for kerosene. The engine had to be up to operating temp first on Gas the switch to kerosene.
I think the compression is about 5 to 1.
He has only run it on gas since he bought it a few years ago.
I think the compression is about 5 to 1.
He has only run it on gas since he bought it a few years ago.
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