Break-In Oil. Theories.

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Hello all. Ive been a long time lurker on this great resource of a website and I finally decided to join to ask a fairly specific set of questions related to break-in oils.

Im in the process of installing a rebuilt motor into a 2002 Honda Civic. Im planning on using a semi-hard break-in process to set the rings. Ive been researching and debating in my mind whats the best oil to use during this break-in process. Ill be changing the oil about 6 times in the first 500 miles of this process.

My questions are the following...

1a. Ive read in several places on the web that many suggest using a single weight like a 30W SAE. Most didnt give any specific reasons but a few mentioned that the viscosity modifiers in multi-viscosity oils may effect the rings ability to shear down the high spots on the cylinder walls to mesh the rings and walls for a tight seal and good break-in. What say the people of BITOG?

1b. Related to the above, literally every source on the web that touted a single weight for break-in exclusively talked about 30W and nothing else. Yet, my Civic calls for a 20W. I see that, while rare, 20W single viscosity oils are available but is it really necessary to stay with the factory recommended weights during break-in only? Obviously I would be switching to the proper 5W-20 after the 500 mile break-in.

2. Many also mentioned the use of conventional rather than a synthetic during break-in. Many mentioned that synthetic is too slippery to allow the strong friction needed for a hard break-in. Any thoughts?

3. Additives. I didnt read this anywhere as this is just my thoughts but for the same reasons as mentioned in question #2, should I be looking for a break-in oil that is low in anti-wear additives? It seems like I should since during break-in "wear" is actually what youre trying to achieve by "wearing down" the piston walls and rings so they can mesh. I would imagine that an oil high in anti-wear would work against me here and fight that process. Im also thinking that while I may not want any anti-wear package, my engine may benefit greatly by having a good detergent/dispersant package during break-in to help suspend all the metal particles that are going be sloshing around through the process. Again, what are everybodys thoughts on this?


So to summarize, is the ideal hard break-in oil a conventional, single weight with a small anti-wear package and a large detergent/dispersant package?

Thanks!
 
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You do not understand the break in process. Break in oil is a marketing scam.
 
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You want high anti wear


Why? Like I said, wouldnt that prolong the break-in process by preventing the wearing-in of the rings?

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low detergent


I thought high detergents would be good for washing out the debris that swirls around during the initial break-in.

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low friction modifiers


Ok, that makes sense.
 
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You do not understand the break in process


Elaborate.

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Break in oil is a marketing scam.


I can certainly believe that but why are you mentioning "break-in oil"? Im talking about oil for breaking-in an engine. Not oil specifically marketed as "break-in" oil. I wanted to start a conversation about what qualities in an oil are necessary for the a quality break-in of a rebuilt engine.
 
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I always break em in with whatever oil the car came with.


I noticed during my research that many people choose this route. I like to brainfucc everything so Im looking for very specific attributes to maximize ring set for the best compression and lowest oil bypass I can get.
 
Originally Posted By: nola000
I noticed during my research that many people choose this route. I like to brainfucc everything so Im looking for very specific attributes to maximize ring set for the best compression and lowest oil bypass I can get.

Right.

I "broke in" my Sienna 18 years ago on whatever it had in there from the factory. Same story for my ECHO one year later. Same story for the Accord.

Once many years ago I rebuilt my 1981 Mazda 626 motor and broke that in on Mobil 1 5W-30. The whole story of synthetic not "breaking in" a motor is silly since some cars come with synthetic from the factory. And my Mazda didn't have any problems, either.

My conclusion is that as long as it meets the requirements of the owner's manual, it will... break in.
 
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The whole story of synthetic not "breaking in" a motor is silly since some cars come with synthetic from the factory.


Well I imagine there are all kinds of reasons for this. Plus, from what I understand all cars get preliminary break-in at the factory. Who knows what they really use during this factory break-in. I read one account that mentioned that GM factory fills with whatever oil they recommend in the manual but they add some kind of GM oil additive when they do the break-in on the factory floor dyno before they load it up in the truck to the dealerships.

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And my Mazda didn't have any problems, either.

My conclusion is that as long as it meets the requirements of the owner's manual, it will... break in


Im not concerned with it having problems I just want to maximize the engines life on this rebuild. I bought the vehicle with 70k on the odometer and I pulled it for a rebuild at 297k and Im fairly certain the previous owner didnt do a proper break-in so if I do this right maybe I can see 500k this time around.
 
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Originally Posted By: nola000

So to summarize, is the ideal hard break-in oil a conventional, single weight with a small anti-wear package and a large detergent/dispersant package?

Thanks!


Makes sense to me, in the hard-break context, though that is itself controversial.

OTOH, I think its conventional to use high Zinc oils for break-in, though that might be due to the influence of excess muscle which your car doesn't manifest.

I don't have an opinion, but I think this might be a job for Universal Answer B Man.

Nobody Knows
 
What you need is a run-in oil with over 1000 ppm of phos and zinc, such as Amsoil BRK.

Avoid any oil with friction modifiers.

Treat it gently for the first 500 miles. After it quits using any oil, change to the oil viscosity speced for your engine.

Check compression after run-in so can get a baseline if any problems arrive later.
 
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I wouldn't worry about getting any special break in oil; I'd just use a conventional oil.

I found a good deal on Amazon for you...

You can get three 5-quart jugs of Havoline 5w-20 (API SN) for $37.75! That's only $2.52 per quart:

Three 5-Quart Jugs - Havoline 5w-20 API SN

I suggest using this filter for the first break-in run:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIX0/57356/02269.oap

And after the breaking in of the engine is done, you could continue to keep using those, or step up to the XP:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/WIXX/57356XP.oap
 
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My 2cents. New cars need "some" breaking in. You're also breaking in the rear gears/trans axle and brakes. Can you go and just drive the be-Jesus out it? Yes. Will it hurt it? Who knows until, down the road something pukes. A newly re-built stock engine, some break-in yes. A high performance engine, do what "your" engine builder tells you to do. Don't listen to your buddies(unless they're Robert Yates etc." My thoughts......
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It looks like you are spending more on the break in oil by changing it six times in 500 miles than the rebuild itself.

The first life was 197k, what makes you think that they didn't break it in correctly? Perhaps the rare break it in hard people are the ones that shorten engine life to
I built a 350 for my former '66 vette. I used conventional oil and it didn't consume much if any at all. There are so many issues while rebuilding and engine oil is not even close to the top of the list. It won't solve any sins nor rectify any major issues. I would spend more time ensuring all the other issues are triple checked and that the rest of the car is set up to last.

What driving environment are you in (city/highway. traffic, etc)? How long can you take for the first 500 miles?
 
Originally Posted By: nola000
Quote:
You want high anti wear


Why? Like I said, wouldnt that prolong the break-in process by preventing the wearing-in of the rings?

Quote:
low detergent


I thought high detergents would be good for washing out the debris that swirls around during the initial break-in.

Quote:
low friction modifiers


Ok, that makes sense.


Detergents won't do anything with metal shavings, it only works on combustion by products.
 
If new engines needed special break in oil, I would think the manufacturer would say so or we would have a lot of failures of new cars.
 
I used to build a lot of engines did the install and break in also. We used napa conventional. Today i would probably use something like supertech conventional. You dont need fancy oil just a solid break in. We never used to short change our break in oil either.
 
Originally Posted By: E150GT
If new engines needed special break in oil, I would think the manufacturer would say so or we would have a lot of failures of new cars.


Honda does.
smile.gif
 
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