Break in oil for modern engine?

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: dave123
Originally Posted By: nitehawk55
AND....if something did happen to go wrong with that engine shortly after you take delivery and you have drained the FF chances are you could kiss your warranty goodbye .


not true


Might be true, depending on what happened. If it starts burning too much oil and they can prove the FF was dumped early causing the rings not to bed in fully due to too high a Moly content in the first fill or some other issue, then the warranty would be binned for sure.
BUT, most new engines fail for other reasons if you get a Monday morning job. Eg head bolt breaks or bottom clip falls off the lower rad hose etc. Most manufacturers / dealers will pay out or fix the problem, although some bad El Cheapo ones could cause trouble and force you into a legal dispute.
Can't think what the OP has been reading, other than some Boys own A to Z of how to get your day in court with a new car!
 
Originally Posted By: screaminglemon
but I am a believer in the "run it hard" style of engine break in promoted by motoman.

You lost me at motoman.....
15.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Doog
Originally Posted By: screaminglemon
but I am a believer in the "run it hard" style of engine break in promoted by motoman.

You lost me at motoman.....
15.gif



Interesting site, BUT does it say dump the factory fill early some place. It's of more interest to high rev bike owners or race car folks.
If you manage to seal the rings on a diesel or non turbo petrol engine too well with such a break in method it can cause a real increase in bearing wear due to lack of blowby if you select a wrong gear or even during cold starts. That lack of effective cylinder pressure relief can damage head gaskets but also increases wear of the main bearings. It might get you a few extra hp but it won't be for free in the longer term.
Sort of trick that applied to the wrong type of engine could even weaken an exhaust valve or rocker arm. I bet the car manufacturers love that site.
 
Originally Posted By: ZFoily
If you manage to seal the rings on a diesel or non turbo petrol engine too well with such a break in method it can cause a real increase in bearing wear due to lack of blowby if you select a wrong gear or even during cold starts. That lack of effective cylinder pressure relief can damage head gaskets but also increases wear of the main bearings. It might get you a few extra hp but it won't be for free in the longer term.
Sort of trick that applied to the wrong type of engine could even weaken an exhaust valve or rocker arm. I bet the car manufacturers love that site.


^ I have never read anything on this site that makes less sense than those words up there.
 
I think something was lost in the German->English translation which might happened inside the person's head.
 
Quote:
That lack of effective cylinder pressure relief can damage head gaskets


Cylinder pressure relief, SKYoily, is done by the exhaust valve.
sick.gif
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule



For new vehicles, my "druthers" are to run the FF for about 500 miles and then change the filter and oil according to the OEM's oil weight (viscosity) specifications.



I agree and got flamed in the past for it. I'm glad to see I'm in good company.
 
The notion that you shouldn't use synthetic oil in a new engine is a hundred years out of date. That's if it ever was necessary at all. As always, your car, your money, but the concept of dumping TGMO 0W20 (a very highly regarded oil) in favor of some dino strikes me as absurd.
 
Originally Posted By: screaminglemon
So I am a couple of weeks from buying a brand new Toyota FJ Cruiser. This is my first new car and want to do things right, but I am a believer in the "run it hard" style of engine break in promoted by motoman. Of course, he says to never use synthetics during break in, but the truck will come with 0W20 from the factory so I plan to change it out immediately.

The problem is, the manual says to only use 0W20 or if its unavailable 5W20 is OK for 1 OCI. Specialized "brake in" oils (Royal Purple, Amsoil, Brad Penn) are almost all straight W30. Lucas makes a W20 (but I can't find the spec sheet for it), and Joe Gibbs makes a 5W30. Then there's the camp that says to just use cheap Castrol HD 30, with or without a break in additive.

My guess is that the factory spec 0W20 is purely for MPG and a slightly higher viscosity wont hurt anything, especially with the abbreviated break in OCI. After break in, I will use 0W20 for sure but I'm leaning towards the Joe Gibbs Driven BR30 (5W30) for the first 1500 miles.

Then there's the whole don't use high zinc oil in EGR equipped vehicles. Not completely sure what that's about but I'll be OK for such a short period, correct?

So what is everyone's thoughts on modern engine break in?


Your the reason it is scary to buy a used vehicle
smile.gif
. Why would you not just follow the owners manual? I mean they did design and build your engine right? Or you can take the advise of a stranger on the interNet
wink.gif
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
but I am a believer in the "run it hard" style of engine break in promoted by motoman.

Those break-in oils are mainly for rebuilt engines that do not have the kind of machining available from the factory.

+1. the special break-in oils are mostly for rebuilt engines.

I would leave the FF in till the first OCI for max benefits from OEM additives optimized for the first OCI period.
 
Originally Posted By: MolaKule
Quote:
That lack of effective cylinder pressure relief can damage head gaskets


Cylinder pressure relief, SKYoily, is done by the exhaust valve.
sick.gif



So that's why they put those things in there!
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom