Break-In Oil for Flat Tappets

[TopBanana]

Hey everyone! I'm a newbie to this forum and it looks like lots of great info is available her so I thought you could help me out.

I'm hearing lots of info about modern oils:

1. The EPA has mandated reduced ZDDP in modern oils to increase catalyst life.
2. Reduced ZDDP can be catastrophic to the camshafts in older cars w/ flat tappet lifters...especially during break-in.
3. Diesel oils (Rotella, Delvac, etc) typically have increased ZDDP over auto oils, but it's being reduced here too.

I'm getting ready to fire a 318 Polysphere motor with a new cam and flat tappet, solid lifers and I'm obviously concerned about using the right oil for break in. Is there adequate ZDDP in the diesel oils that I can use them for break in? or should I get an additive like "ZDDPlus" and add it to the diesel oil? or do I need to spend the money and purchase a special "break-in oil"?

Thanks in advance.

 

[Steve S]

Use the lube on the cam that came with the cam use a HDEO Delo 400 or Shell Rotells for example and get some G.M. ESO or Redline break in additive and prime the oil system and follow the cam mfg instructions. it there are double springs remove the inner spring for the break in.

 

[FrankN4]

What grade oil was recommended? You can get a 10w30 motorcycle oil with 1340 ZDDP or a 10W-40 motorcycle oil with 1600 ZDDP.

 

[Cyprs]

Welcome TB.

Look for CI-4/SL rating, hard find in syn oil now but still around in HDEOs in Conventional.

Here are some Zinc/Phospherous numbers for Delo 400 (one of oils SteveS suggests) and the new LE version in conventional HDEO too.

Delo 400 15-40 CI-4/SL (older version) has 1360 ppm phosphurous and 1480 ppm Zinc 1.41 ash and TBN 12.2. It is also supposed to have Moly too which is a great protection to boot.

The new CJ-4 Delo 400 15-40 Conventional LE is 1300 ppm zinc and 1200 ppm phospurous and 1 in ash, TBN 9.6 Still better than your SM only rated oils, about 400-500 ppm more zinc/phosphorus.

The Delo 400 0-30 syn oil remains as CI-4, its gas rating is actually SJ. It has 1300 ppm Zinc, 1140 ppm phos and 10 TBN.

The 5-40 syn Delo 400 is now LE according to web page,It is 1270 ppm zinc and 1150 ppm phos and 10.3 TBN. it does not mention 15-40 CI-4/SL anymore but you might find old stock CI-4 Delo 5-40 somewhere, great oil that closely refects the 15-40 conventional non LE numbers.

Esso XD3 up here in CI-4/SL runs great numbers too, your EXXON American version should be close too.

Up here one has to hit the bulk stations and shop around to get the CI-4/SL

Steve20 mentions best buy on ZDDP in "oil additives" section too.

Cyprs

 

[FastSUV]

Best break-in oil for flat tappets in usually Rotella (or any diesel oil). It has all the "good stuff" in it to protect the engine during break-in.

Once the motor is broken in, most modern oils are fine for a stock flat-tappet motor because the stock valve springs are weak and do not put enough pressure to wear a cam lobe down too fast.

That being said, it is important to do break-in right. 4-stroke motor cylce oil is also a good choice, but most engine builders I have ever talked to liked one of 3 methods:

1.) Rotella, Mystic, Delo, etc, etc...10w40 or higher
2.) Castrol straight 30wt HD
3.) Regualt conventional oil with a special break-in additive poured in such as the stuff made by Lucas: http://www.hawkinsspeedshop.com/categories/lubricants-and-chemicals/products/product-970.html

I used the castrol HD myself the one time I installed a new cam in a 305 chevy.

 

[KW]

I build a few drag car motors a year. Now that I can't get EOS anymore I use a parts house brand 10W30 or 10W40 and a bottle of the ZDDPlus for the first 30 minute run in. Then most any HDEO like Rotella T 15W40 or 10W30.

Note to self -- cast iron rings won't seat with a really smooth bore if Schaeffers 15W40 goes in before at least a few passes have been done.

 

[LC]

Do a google on Brad Penn Oil they have some great oils for your application. I would think since your in Maryland you should have it available close by. Or give them a call/email.

 

[BuickGN]

I'm running a fairly fast ramp flat tappet hydraulic cam with 100lb (closed) valvesprings. I'm sure your solid cam is a bit more aggressive than mine.

I just ran Amsoil ACD straight 30wt synthetic. It's a bit pricey for an oil you're going to dump after 30 minutes but it has high ZDDP, it's a straight weight that flows like a 10w30 cold so it can't shear, and the HT/HS is pretty high for a 30wt.

I like straight weights for break-in whether it's a new engine or just a new flat tappet cam.

 

[FastSUV]

but still conventional oil is best for break-in is it not? I know a syn with high ZDDP is better than not, but from what I know the rings never seal right if not broken in on conventional & then switched to syn later on??? I know vettes & stuff come w/ Mobil 1 but I bet they at least use a special additive in the factory fill.

 

[FrankN4]

Hot Rod magazine did an article on the Corvette engine assembly. Not only does Corvette use 5w30 Mobil 1 as the factory fill, they also use it as an assembly lube. The factory fill is the exact same oil as the over the counter oil.

Myself, my two daughters, their husbands have had a few new cars since 1990. They all got factory oil drained the day they were purchased and Mobil 1 synthetic installed. None of them ever had any kind of engine problem and one with 208,000 is still in use. The others had 170,000 to 190,000 when traded.

 

[AzFireGuy79]

You are probably aware, but Redline has a new break in additive out. Looks to have quite a bit of ZDDP.

 

[Ben99GT]

The Corvette doesn't have flat tappets.

 

[Drew99GT]

I'd strongly consider Valvoline VR-1 racing oil as it has a ton of zinc.

 

[ZZman]

Buy any oil you want and add a break in additive from Redline or break in oil from Royal Purple.

http://www.redlineoil.com/products_coolant.asp?subCategoryID=35

http://www.royalpurple.com/breakin-oil.html