Brand new G37, suggestions on oil and OCI

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My new G37 has about 500 miles on it, on the factory fill.

Should I think about changing it now? After the 1200 mile "break in"? Or just run it to a standard dyno OCI (3750 miles)?

Also, I wanted to switch to synth. I *never* hit the mileage OCI, its always time-based (commute is 3 miles each way to work). I change the oil 2x/yr, April and November, so the car is always running pretty clean oil for the toughest seasons.

Since I dont drove a whole lot, I need a 6 month OCI more than I need a 7500 mile OCI, but its nice to have the option of running up the miles (just in case commutes change, etc).

Ive seen Pennzoil Ultra getting some good reviews (both here and on G37 forums), is that the consensus for these engines? I dont mind spending what I need to, but Ultra is a lot easier to get around here than Redline, Motul, etc.

Thanks in advance.

-Chris
 
If you don't mind the price on 3750-mile changes, and can get it easily, Pennzoil Ultra would be an excellent oil to use.

Castrol Edge would also be another great choice - it shows good results.
 
Originally Posted By: addyguy
If you don't mind the price on 3750-mile changes, and can get it easily, Pennzoil Ultra would be an excellent oil to use.

Castrol Edge would also be another great choice - it shows good results.


+1, PP or Ultra are solid choices for this engine. Get them on sale and the 3750 mile oci won't kill your wallet.
 
Originally Posted By: buster
M1 0w40.


^^2nd,and DO NOT do extended oci`s. I`d also do 3/3k.
 
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Hi.

I don't own a G37, but own a couple sporty cars and a motorcycle. My break in procedures are the same. If you do not feel comfortable doing it this way, that's perfectly fine.

My NSX did not come with a synthetic factory fill, nor did my motorcycle. I bought the Toyota MR2 and Porsche 968 used, so I'm not sure what the break in was like haha.

But anyways, I drove the car/bike very hard on the way home; it's about 35 miles from where I bought the bike and the car. Lots of full throttle and low gears. Didn't cruise or drive on the freeway. Then when I got home, I changed it. Then I simply followed roughly 5000 mile oil changes. 3000 for the bike because I don't drive it much and it sits for a year accumulating that mileage.

The owners manual specifically states not to drive it hard. But I am accustomed to doing it this way because when we build and test the race powertrains/drivetrains at work, that's how we do it. It's mainly to ensure the piston rings have seated properly. However, there is a high chance that on the way to the dealership, it's been done for you already :]

Have fun with the car. In my opinion, it's similar to the BMW 3-series that it competes with. The engine is quite an improvement in terms of NVH that the previous VHR engine. Although not nearly as smooth and linear as the turbocharged I6 from BMW, it's got a bit more character. And of course reliability with Infiniti is surefire while BMW may be a bit average. But to each his own! haha have fun.
 
Son own 2010 G37S. Put ~3700 on ff. Likely to go at least the same with this OCI from dealer change using their house dino 5w30. Next change going to be DIY, PP 5w30 with a P1 filter likely to ~5k/6month OCI. PU would work just fine too, just a bit more expensive.

Originally Posted By: buster
M1 0w40.

Enlighten me, why 0w40 in a car spec'd for 5w30? Not doubting you, just curious.
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
Son own 2010 G37S. Put ~3700 on ff. Likely to go at least the same with this OCI from dealer change using their house dino 5w30. Next change going to be DIY, PP 5w30 with a P1 filter likely to ~5k/6month OCI. PU would work just fine too, just a bit more expensive.

Originally Posted By: buster
M1 0w40.

Enlighten me, why 0w40 in a car spec'd for 5w30? Not doubting you, just curious.





VQ's are known for liking thicker oils, and M1 0w40 is one of their best as well.
 
30 weight oils are too thin for Nissan VG and VQ engines,at least if they`re driven the way they`re meat to be driven :^) I LOVE those G37`s! AWESOME car!
 
Does the MFG recommend syn oil? I wouldn't run syn oil unless you are doing extended oil change intervals. Reguardless what the internet experts say todays dino oils are great.
 
I'd run a heavy 5w30 that's API SM. Some higher mileage cars have done well with thin-40s, like M1 0w40.

German Castrol Syntec 0w30 is actually API SL but should still be fine.
 
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Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: buster
M1 0w40.


^^2nd,and DO NOT do extended oci`s. I`d also do 3/3k.
Again you do not need to run syn . In advance it is your money and you can do what you want but I would feel foolish spending extra money for syn oil and not reaping the benefits I paid for it.
 
I normally used German Castrol in my old 01 i30 (VQ30 engine), but switched to Pennzoil Plat with the last oil change just because it was on sale.

Looks like Ill be going M1 0w-40 on the G.

Final question - when should the first change be? Now, 1200 miles, or 3750 miles (or 6 months whichever comes first)? And should I just go directly to M1 at that point?
 
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Does the MFG recommend syn oil? I wouldn't run syn oil unless you are doing extended oil change intervals. Reguardless what the internet experts say todays dino oils are great.


Im not doing extended OCIs per say but Im definitely in a "severe" driving scenario: 3 miles each way to work, maybe a 10 mile round trip during work if I wanna get away for my lunch hour. Pretty not-good for the engine, so I preferred to have the best lubrication possible from startup to shutdown, and Ive always figured synth would provide that. And thats assuming I take the car to work every day, which I do not (I drive my pickup truck most of the time lately because of all the lovely northeast snow)

Like I said, Ill hit the 6 month "time limit" long before I hit an extended OCI (and maybe even before I hit 3750 miles)
 
Quote:
30 weight oils are too thin for Nissan VG and VQ engines,at least if they`re driven the way they`re meat to be driven :^) ......
So in essence you're telling me Nissan is no better at specing an oil weight for the G37 than they are about providing the correct fix for a defective precat on a 2.5L Altima. If true, not surprising to me.

How does using an other than spec'd weight oil under warranty, affect the warranty? Based on my personal experience with Nissan and warranty coverage, just wondering.
 
Originally Posted By: aquariuscsm
Originally Posted By: buster
M1 0w40.


^^2nd,and DO NOT do extended oci`s. I`d also do 3/3k.


Why not? So long as he gets it out for a longer drive once in a while, I see no reason not to extend it to at least the 2x/yrm if not 1x/yr. No issues with my mother's 5 block commute 4x/day on regular M1 at non-severe service interval...
 
Originally Posted By: ChrisJH
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Does the MFG recommend syn oil? I wouldn't run syn oil unless you are doing extended oil change intervals. Reguardless what the internet experts say todays dino oils are great.


Im not doing extended OCIs per say but Im definitely in a "severe" driving scenario: 3 miles each way to work, maybe a 10 mile round trip during work if I wanna get away for my lunch hour. Pretty not-good for the engine, so I preferred to have the best lubrication possible from startup to shutdown, and Ive always figured synth would provide that. And thats assuming I take the car to work every day, which I do not (I drive my pickup truck most of the time lately because of all the lovely northeast snow)

Like I said, Ill hit the 6 month "time limit" long before I hit an extended OCI (and maybe even before I hit 3750 miles)
You will not see any difference with syn oil over dino oil in your application. You can do what ever you think will benefit you . But you will not get any return for your extra $$$ spent.
 
Not exactly an expert here, but from other threads I see smart fella's recommending synthetic for short drive, cold weather situations (for your Nov-Apr oil). Definitely dino oil is good enough for the summer though, especially at that interval.
 
Here's a novel idea!!!!
Why not just follow the manufacturers recommendation for oil, filter and OCI!!!! Protect your investment and ensure no warranty issues by following your owners manual!!!
Why one would consider doing anything other than following the required OCI and oil as spec'd for your engine is beyond comprehension.
Believe me if you take bad advice from people I can guarantee none of them will be at your side with their credit card out while you spend $10,000 - $12,000 for a new engine for that bus.
NEW CAR + WARRANTY + Manufacturers maintenance schedule = TROUBLE FREE AND HAPPY MOTORING!!!

The problem with alot of people today is that COMMON SENSE has really become rather UNCOMMON!!!
 
Yes why would anyone ever do anything that the manufacturer didn't recommend? Because what they recommend isn't necessarily what is best for the vehicle, maybe they recommend things to make money?
 
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