Brand new G37, suggestions on oil and OCI

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Originally Posted By: Steve S
Originally Posted By: ChrisJH
Originally Posted By: Steve S
Does the MFG recommend syn oil? I wouldn't run syn oil unless you are doing extended oil change intervals. Reguardless what the internet experts say todays dino oils are great.


Im not doing extended OCIs per say but Im definitely in a "severe" driving scenario: 3 miles each way to work, maybe a 10 mile round trip during work if I wanna get away for my lunch hour. Pretty not-good for the engine, so I preferred to have the best lubrication possible from startup to shutdown, and Ive always figured synth would provide that. And thats assuming I take the car to work every day, which I do not (I drive my pickup truck most of the time lately because of all the lovely northeast snow)

Like I said, Ill hit the 6 month "time limit" long before I hit an extended OCI (and maybe even before I hit 3750 miles)
You will not see any difference with syn oil over dino oil in your application. You can do what ever you think will benefit you . But you will not get any return for your extra $$$ spent.

I agree with you about extend OCI for syn oil, and that is exactly what I did with my cars. My OCI is 6-7k/6mo with dino and 12-13k/12mo with syn.

But you need to know that the OP just paid good amount of $ for a brand new G37, he doesn't care much about $15-20 extra for syn oil every 6 months ($3-4 extra a month) for the first few years. After the new car smell had been gone, then he may rethinking the oil choice.
 
I usually do a 3,000 mile first oil change on a new car, and switch it to synthetic.

My son has a G37 Coupe, He wanted to do a couple of dino oil changes at 3750 miles before switching to synthetic. We used Mobil Clean 5000 for second oil change. We then switched to Pennzoil Ultra and are going 7500 miles on it. Will probably get a UOA on it when we change.

I changed from Mobil 1 to Castrol Edge in my Corvette after about 3 years of increasing lead ppm. It went down by 3 times after using Edge. Only reason I wouldn't recommend Edge in a G37 is that it starts out as a low viscosity 5W-30 weight, almost 5W-20, and G37's shear oil.
 
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Here's a novel idea!!!!
Why not just follow the manufacturers recommendation for oil, filter and OCI!!!! Protect your investment and ensure no warranty issues by following your owners manual!!!
Why one would consider doing anything other than following the required OCI and oil as spec'd for your engine is beyond comprehension.
Believe me if you take bad advice from people I can guarantee none of them will be at your side with their credit card out while you spend $10,000 - $12,000 for a new engine for that bus.
NEW CAR + WARRANTY + Manufacturers maintenance schedule = TROUBLE FREE AND HAPPY MOTORING!!!

The problem with alot of people today is that COMMON SENSE has really become rather UNCOMMON!!!
Well, not always. But, I hear ya and find it difficult to disagree, even after the "not always."
 
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Because what they recommend isn't necessarily what is best for the vehicle, maybe they recommend things to make money?


Proof of my ``common sense theory`` right here with the above comment.

I know if I was the manufacturer and was on the hook for the powertrain I would just tell people to fill them up with WATER so I could do all the warranty work!!!!!!

Suggesting the manufacturers suggested fluids and maintenance is not best while on warranty is rediculous.

Sould the OP choose to no follow the OM I would like to suggest you be the first in line to help the OP pay the costs should something go wrong and crater his engine!!!
 
Originally Posted By: sayjac
So in essence you're telling me Nissan is no better at specing an oil weight for the G37


No,I`m just saying that the G37 is a high performance car and not a grocery getter,so I wouldn`t use a grocery getter oil in it. 5W30 is a CAFE oil. It`s like in my car`s manual,it says you can use a 5W/10W30 BUT doesn`t recommend it if you`re racing or driving at extended high speeds. Same thing was in my 3000GT`s manual,30 weight oil for fuel economy,40 or 50 weight if racing or driving fast.
 
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Reading the G37 OM, it doesn't say anything about an alternative weight, 5w30 only. But, what you are saying is Nissan didn't spec the correct oil for use the G37 'could' incur with 'some' users.

It does say, "Choosing an oil viscosity other than that recommended could cause serious engine damage." Doesn't sound like Nissan would honor the warranty if other than 5w30 oil was used and something happened.
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Love the G37 but would not clasify it as a `High Performance`` car by any means. Best classified as a sports coupe. We are not talking about a Ferrari, Lambo or Porche here. We are not even talking Corvette performance.
The liklihood of this engine ever requiring more than the manufacturers specified oil is slim to none IMHO.
 
Originally Posted By: Beagle2000
Originally Posted By: mac9128
Because what they recommend isn't necessarily what is best for the vehicle, maybe they recommend things to make money?


Sould the OP choose to no follow the OM I would like to suggest you be the first in line to help the OP pay the costs should something go wrong and crater his engine!!!



Yes I will pay for someone else's engine on a forum for expressing my opinion, talk about common sense haha. So you don't think manufactures use less than stellar, or products that are not the top of the line to save money? I don't want to get off topic for OP, notice I did not tell him to use a certain oil other than oem I didn't recommend anything specific but from reading on here it seems there are better oils than oem from UOAs and such for the VQ engines since they shear oil.
 
I have a G35X 08, pretty much the same engine, and it gets Mobil 5000 for 4000mile OCI's. I don't drive it like I stole it, but I jump on it from time to time.

While it's under warranty I will run what the manual says to run. Running synthetic gets you no where while under warranty.

Use 5/30 and leave the second guessing to the Nissan Engineers, you aren't smarter than they are, and no on one this forum is regarding the grade of engine oil required.
 
I don`t dispute the fact there may be better oils, however, his warranty specifies a certain oil. I just would hate to see him on here one day in a warranty battle with Nissan Infiniti because of bad advice.
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Your opinion is certainly respected.
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Some manufacturers do cheap out. I would not think Infiniti would be one of them. Nonetheless, they are warranting the car and common sense would suggest following their recommendation until the warranty expires.
Truth is, it`s not my ride, so fill your boots and use what you like. Broken rods and pistons make great conversation pieces!!!! LOL
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Common sense and a very strict OCI has managed to get my car to 182,000 miles without issue to this point. Car runs like new and uses no oil on 3000 mile OCI`s on dino. Yumm says my Buick!!!
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I have an '09 Nissan 370Z with the same engine and have put my faith in this plan:
Factory fill and filter changed at 1250 miles. I used the way overpriced Nissan Ester oil and a Mobil 1 # 110 filter which is slightly over sized up to the 5K mark. At 5K miles I switched to Redline 5W-30 synthetic with the same filter. My plan is 5K OCI's which is about every 7-8 months, and I'll stick with the Redline. You can buy a case of 12 bottles from Amazon.com for just under $10 per quart and that's with shipping included. Not as cheap as Walmart oils like Penzoil Ultra (which reportedly is quite good) but the difference per oil change is about what a couple of cups of Starbucks coffee costs so not enough to fret about. The VQ37 engines run hot and are hard on oil. Use a premium oil and protect your investment.
 
The owners manual should be your guide-period. Beware of those who advise against what the factory engineers recomend. The factory has put tens of thousands of engine test hours and their recomendations is based on data. Too early oil changes are probably not the best thing to do because of assembly lubs and or additives are there to protect against scuffing and other oil related issures. Your oil filter is there to protect.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
The owners manual should be your guide-period. Beware of those who advise against what the factory engineers recomend. The factory has put tens of thousands of engine test hours and their recomendations is based on data. Too early oil changes are probably not the best thing to do because of assembly lubs and or additives are there to protect against scuffing and other oil related issures. Your oil filter is there to protect.


Well said Eddie!!! +1
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I like M1 0w40 and 5w30 in high performance engines for a few reasons.

1. Extensively tested.

2. Good approvals.

With Mobil 1 0w40, you get a bit more ZDP and hover around the upper 30wt/low 40 grade. It's hard to beat that oil when you consider all factors.
 
Originally Posted By: Eddie
The owners manual should be your guide-period. Beware of those who advise against what the factory engineers recomend. The factory has put tens of thousands of engine test hours and their recomendations is based on data. Too early oil changes are probably not the best thing to do because of assembly lubs and or additives are there to protect against scuffing and other oil related issures. Your oil filter is there to protect.


Absolutely true!
 
OP here -

I didnt intend on stirring up the pot so much!

Ill leave the factory fill in until after break in (1200 miles, *per the owners manual*
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The only reason I even ask about what type of oil to use is because I know the Nissan Ester stuff is A) expensive and B) not necessarily a good oil. Part A I have no problem with, its part B that bothers me. Yes, its spec-ed from the factory (technically not for my car....since the VVEL issue is supposed to be resolved in the 2010+ models), but if it protects worse than many other oils, why wouldnt I use a better oil instead?

Even if I used the nissan stuff and the engine tanked, Id still have to deal with Nissan/Infiniti Im sure, because Im not letting the dealer change the oil. Had too many times where the dealer messed something up...luckily it didnt harm an engine, but it was still a PITA to deal with myself.

I dont necessarily want to change grades either....5w-30 is fine, its really more of a question of what brand oil to use than anything else. Granted, I keep reading how hard this engine is on oil, so how could a Mobil1 0W-40 protect any worse than the Nissan ester stuff that doesnt seem to protect that great to begin with?
 
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Originally Posted By: edhackett
Nope, there is no reason to ask why, think, research, or learn something. Just do what mommy says. Mommy is always right.

Baa Baa

Ed


"momma said alligators are ornery because they got all those teeth and no tooth brush."
 
Chris, Changing at 1200 is a good plan.

The reason Nissan specifies only 5W-30 for their engines is because that is the oil weight they used to obtain their CAFE numbers for that engine. By law they can only recommend that weight oil. It has to be in the owners manual and on the oil cap. Basically they have to do everything they can to brainwash you into using that weight oil so that they meet government regulations.

Many(most) engines do just fine with that recommendation. Certain engine families from several manufacturers have demonstrated lower wear using a heavier oil than the CAFE oil. The Nissan V6's and Subaru turbo engines being examples.

The M1 0W-40 others are recommending is an excellent choice. If you wanted to stay to the letter and use a 5W-30, Pennzoil Ultra is turning in excellent results, much better than the Nissan's aunt Esther oil.

Ed
 
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