Brand new G37, suggestions on oil and OCI

[The Critic]

Use an oil that is recommended by its manufacturer for applications requiring Genuine Nissan Ester Oil. Pennzoil Ultra and Valvoline SynPower 5w-30 are two examples.

Change the oil every 3 months or 3750 miles, whichever comes first, as required by Nissan for nearly all driving conditions. According to Nissan, most driving conditions are considered severe and the 3/3.75k schedule must be followed.

end of discussion.

 

[virginoil]

Originally Posted By: edhackett
Nope, there is no reason to ask why, think, research, or learn something. Just do what mommy says. Mommy is always right.
Baa Baa
Ed


Ed

I think there is merit to look seek and ask so you can you can learn. Providing there is scope within the guidelines of oil selection within the owners manual (to vary the oil grade according to use and climate etc) whilst under warranty then yes.

Otherwise me thinks, the OEM recommendation with an OEM approval is the way to go until the end of the warranty period.

 

[RumbleG]

I have a '05 G35 Sedan. I love it!

My oil is full syn 5W-30 Q-Horsepower (UDQH) with either a Napa Gold or Pureone oil filter. All my oil changes have been at around 8K miles. I have 55K on my G with no issues.

Enjoy your G37!

BTW, when I bought my daughter a new 08' Mazda 3 the dealership was offering free oils changes for life of ownership of the Mazda. They said bring it in every 5K miles for service with Dino oil........

 

[CBR.worm]

I would run M1 0w40 as I have been for the last 110k in my G35. I would not run extended OCI's unless you are using synthetic, even then it is at your own risk. I run ~7k, but I do a lot of highway miles and live in Florida.

 

[ChrisJH]

I think M1 0w-40 is what I would go with once out of warranty, but I wanted to stick with something 5w-30 (per Nissan recommendations). Synthetic, yes. Extended OCIs, no.

Like I said I have no problem paying for the genuine Ester but A) its harder to get (Im not letting the dealer change the oil) and B) there are much better oils out there for the $$$.

BTW the 3.7L is a very different beast than the 3.5L in regards to what it does to oil...if I had the 3.5L I wouldnt be nearly as concerned with what I put in it.

 

[Dwight_Frye]

I had an '04 G35 Coupe and ran 05W-30 Castrol GTX or PYB for the 5 years I owned it, but my OCI's were usually around 3000-3200 mile intervals. Mainly out of habit for the last 35 years + of driving and doing my own changes.
An oil change using Redline 05W-30 and a Mobil 1 filter runs me about $75 for the oil and filter and doing it myself which I don't mind. I do 5K OCI's which helps a bit with the cost of ownership per mile. Not like a $19.95 JiffyLube special but I don't trust those places and don't mind using premium products in my 370Z with the same VQ37 engine.


Originally Posted By: ChrisJH
I think M1 0w-40 is what I would go with once out of warranty, but I wanted to stick with something 5w-30 (per Nissan recommendations). Synthetic, yes. Extended OCIs, no.

Like I said I have no problem paying for the genuine Ester but A) its harder to get (Im not letting the dealer change the oil) and B) there are much better oils out there for the $$$.

BTW the 3.7L is a very different beast than the 3.5L in regards to what it does to oil...if I had the 3.5L I wouldnt be nearly as concerned with what I put in it.

 

[ChrisJH]

Yeah, I sourced a place that can get me RedLine consistently. Looking at 10.00/qt so figure 60.00 for the first batch of oil, then 50.00 for the next 7 (use the full 6th quart 1/8th at a time for each oil change), plus filter (I use PureOne filters, usually from Amazon for 4.00 or so each).

Its not really the cost, its just the fact that RedLine should be a MUCH better oil than Nissan Ester. Even Pennzoil Ultra is turning out to be a good oil for the 3.7L and thats dirt cheap (relatively speaking) and ultra available.

Not sure I want to extend the OCI mileage wise, but I might think about stretching it time wise, instead of 3 months maybe 5 or 6? Dunno. If Nissan is going to be a PITA about possible warranty issues Ill probably just change the oil every 3 months even though there will be very little reuntime on it.

 

[CougarRed]

Sorry I missed this thread. I own a 2010 G37.

My car has about 6000 miles on it. It's almost broken in. My last UOA showed:

10 parts Iron (Universal Average = 18)
4 parts Lead (UA = 5)
2 parts Aluminum (UA = 5)
0 parts Tin (UA = 1)
32 parts Copper (UA = 12)

Copper is trending down, and should be below 12 by 10,000 miles.

I've seen a lot of G37 UOAs on engines with well over 10,000 miles that are still spewing off a ton of wear metals. Usually it's due to the use of Nissan Ester oil or because the owner started with 5-7K OCIs when the engine was new.

I owe my unusually low wear metals to the fact that I changed my oil at 500 miles, 1400 miles, 2800 miles (1st UOA) and 5500 miles (last UOA). As a result, I've managed to flush most of those metals out of the system.

By the way, I drive about 5500 miles a year in mostly stop and go city traffic in Houston. Not exactly ideal conditions for motor oil. For my last UOA, the oil spent 6 months in the engine.

Do I recommend this early oil flush procedure? Only if you plan to keep the car 7-10+ years. If you change cars every 4-5 years, who cares. Just follow the manual. Or push the envelope on OCIs. You'll probably be long gone before ill effects, if any, begin to show.

Regarding the choice of oil, I've seen some excellent G37 UOAs with Pennzoil Platinum 5W30 and Eneos 5W30. I'm sure Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE would be fine. In my climate with my driving habits, I'm leaning towards more shear stable 10W30 oils like Rotella T5 and Lubrication Engineers 8130.

As far as filters go, it's hard to beat a PureOne.

 

[Indydriver]

OP: will your new car sit in unheated places during your cold CT winters? It's pretty hard to avoid unless you're lucky enough to work for someone with a heated garage. ALL of the oils discussed to this point will work just fine for a 3k OCI. I would be more focused on what's going on at startup, where all the wear occurs. Look at something in a 0W, at least for your fall change. The OTC syns will be just fine. No need to waste money on the $10 boutique oils.