Brakes feel squishy after service

[PWMDMD]

For background, here is my ongoing saga - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2020-tundra-needs-new-front-differential.406841/

Got the truck back yesterday and didn't drive it much until today. When I first got in, I thought the brakes felt squishy, but figured I hadn't driven the truck in 5 weeks and I was just noticing the difference between a new truck and a 6 ½ year old truck. Now I'm convinced there is an issue.

Here are the facts:

1. Brakes and brake fluid changed 20k miles ago with plenty of meat on pads

2. Brake were 100% fine before dealership replaced front differential, coolant and a frozen emergency brake pivot.

3. Dealership dropped truck on front right caliper when unsecured wheel came off. Checked brakes and sent to another dealership to check damage and repair right front fender.

4. Much more pedal travel needed in every day driving but if I slam on the brakes, it still comes to a full stop in hurry.

5. If I pump the brakes with the engine on, there is a slight increase in brake pedal resistance and then it slowly sinks to just above the floor.

6. If I pump brakes with the engine off, it builds quite a bit of pressure and it maintains that pressure.

7. There is plenty of light yellow/clean brake fluid the reservoir and there isn't anything obviously leaking.

Is that consistent with introducing air into the brake system? I have a call into service advisor.

 

[The Critic]

Sounds like your brakes need to be bled.

 

[PWMDMD]

Sounds like your brakes need to be bled.

I really wish BITOG would let me swear...

 

[The Critic]

Just fix it yourself. Grab a friend and it’ll be done in 15 mins.

 

[PWMDMD]

Just fix it yourself. Grab a friend and it’ll be done in 15 mins.

Would replacing the front differential or replacing the emergency brake pivot require opening the brake system? If it doesn't and with them dropping the truck, my concern is there is a leak somewhere sucking air into the system. The brake fluid reservoir was halfway between min and max, but to be honest, I have no idea where it was before the service and it very well could've been at max.

Is that a reasonable concern?

 

[drtyler]

Would replacing the front differential or replacing the emergency brake pivot require opening the brake system? If it doesn't and with them dropping the truck, my concern is there is a leak somewhere sucking air into the system. The brake fluid reservoir was halfway between min and max, but to be honest, I have no idea where it was before the service and it very well could've been at max.

Is that a reasonable concern?

Did the dealer replace the RF caliper?

 

[97prizm]

For background, here is my ongoing saga - https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/2020-tundra-needs-new-front-differential.406841/

Got the truck back yesterday and didn't drive it much until today. When I first got in, I thought the brakes felt squishy, but figured I hadn't driven the truck in 5 weeks and I was just noticing the difference between a new truck and a 6 ½ year old truck. Now I'm convinced there is an issue.

Here are the facts:

1. Brakes and brake fluid changed 20k miles ago with plenty of meat on pads

2. Brake were 100% fine before dealership replaced front differential, coolant and a frozen emergency brake pivot.

3. Dealership dropped truck on front right caliper when unsecured wheel came off. Checked brakes and sent to another dealership to check damage and repair right front fender.

4. Much more pedal travel needed in every day driving but if I slam on the brakes, it still comes to a full stop in hurry.

5. If I pump the brakes with the engine on, there is a slight increase in brake pedal resistance and then it slowly sinks to just above the floor.

6. If I pump brakes with the engine off, it builds quite a bit of pressure and it maintains that pressure.

7. There is plenty of light yellow/clean brake fluid the reservoir and there isn't anything obviously leaking.

Is that consistent with introducing air into the brake system? I have a call into service advisor.

There is likely still air in the system. Some vehicles need the ABS activated via OBD software to ensure no air in the system.

 

[PWMDMD]

Did the dealer replace the RF caliper?

Sorry...rotor...not caliper, it dropped on the rotor. Both the offending dealership and the dealership that did the body work inspected the frame, suspension, and brakes, and they both said all checked out, so they did not replace the rotor. FWIW...truck otherwise drives fine besides the squishy pedal.

 

[JeffKeryk]

Calling the service advisor was the right thing to do. Just say the brakes had a firm pedal before and now require pumping.
Stuff happens.

 

[drtyler]

Sorry...rotor...not caliper, it dropped on the rotor. Both the offending dealership and the dealership that did the body work inspected the frame, suspension, and brakes, and they both said all checked out, so they did not replace the rotor. FWIW...truck otherwise drives fine besides the squishy pedal.

Its possible that they removed the brake hose from the caliper & removed the caliper in order to remove rotor for inspection. I suspect they did a sloppy job with bleeding, or just forgot to do so.

 

[PWMDMD]

Its possible that they removed the brake hose from the caliper & removed the caliper in order to remove rotor for inspection. I suspect they did a sloppy job with bleeding, or just forgot to do so.

One would hope if you dropped someone's truck causing $4K worth of damage, you'd triple check all the other things you did.

I'm not surprised. I've been poop talking dealerships here for being careless for a long time.

 

[drtyler]

One would hope if you dropped someone's truck causing $4K worth of damage, you'd triple check all the other things you did.

I'm not surprised. I've been poop talking dealerships here for being careless for a long time.

I agree 100%. Unfortunately, it seems that speed in job completion is prioritized over quality work at most dealerships.

 

[Timmastertech]

If there was a leak you would have trouble building pressure in a panic stop situation. I agree with the Critic that its air. The fixed calipers on those trucks can be a royal pain to bleed air out of and it wouldnt surprise me if a line was loosened to have enough movement of the steering knuckle to remove the axles during the diff R&I.

 

[JavierH19]

Don't waste your time calling they're more confident in blowing you off over the phone. Go back and have a polite word with the advisor if not the manager and explain that after they did the work the pedal is soft and spongy when it was firm and strong before.

 

[ecotourist]

You describe a brake system that needs bleeding (maybe again, or maybe for the first time).

Last time I had my brakes serviced (caliper pins lubed and the brake fluid replaced) I had the same outcome. I took it back, they bled the brakes again, and it was back to normal. There was no further charge.

Stuff happens.

 

[D60]

Bottom line they're lying. That doesn't just happen and you're not sucking air. The system has been opened up.

Bleed it and move on.

 

[Lubener]

Sorry...rotor...not caliper, it dropped on the rotor. Both the offending dealership and the dealership that did the body work inspected the frame, suspension, and brakes, and they both said all checked out, so they did not replace the rotor. FWIW...truck otherwise drives fine besides the squishy pedal.

If the system wasn't opened up which it's hard to determined from what's been posted. I doubt it's air in the system IF it wasn't opened up. Air cannot enter into a closed system. Could be the M/C going if the system wasn't bled by the dealership. Sometimes improper pumping of the brakes during bleeding can damage the seals within a M/C.