Brake pads - which products where

[JHZR2]

As mentioned in the thread about current best products, historically I've used the red crc brake quiet goo liberally with good results. Honestly I've not paid attention to other moving parts.

Will be doing pads and rotors on my 91 318i, because while with 60k+ on them! they have over 50% of the material! the rotors are warped.

Bought some Bendix CT-3 pads and rotors, I have the packet of goo that came with the pads, as well as some purple ceramic brake lube product and Sil glide. I can buy anything else I need. Here are the pads:

The calipers are ATE or Girling, and look like this:

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Usually I've just put the red goo liberally on the back of the pad, cleaned things (no lube) and called it a day. I wear brakes very slowly, and I've never had an issue. That said, continuous improvement and learning... These pads don't have ears. So what do I put where?

Thanks!

 

[spasm3]

Did i see a GG rating on the edge of those pads?

 

[JHZR2]

Yes. I wouldn't buy anything else

 

[901Memphis]

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths-of-the-brakes.199109/

Have you read that link in this thread? Just thought I would pass it along it was interesting to me.

 

[spasm3]

I've used orange ultracopper rtv on the backs of my pads, but they all had ears. I would look at the contact points.

 

[Rylan]

I don't have experience with that red stuff, so I don't know where it goes. I usually have other stuff on hand mostly CRC syn grease, Permatex, or SilGlyde.

I'd put a light coat on the back of inside (piston-side) pad, and the flat contact areas on the back of the outer pad. Whenever I have the calipers off, I usually clean and regrease the caliper pins as well.
I also put a light coat on the "lip" of the piston dust boot to keep it from dry rotting (and sticking). Not much, as you don't want any to seep inside the piston.

 

[Voltmaster]

my 2000 accord had the indicators on the piston side, and the OE akebono the indicators are build in the pad so I put them there.

As long as it fits who cares?

 

[Oil Changer]

What does the "GG" mean?

 

[NHGUY]

GG is a heat grading.Most you will see is EE or FF.

 

[edwardh1]

does akebono, the toyota oem, made in usa, make bmw oads?

 

[JHZR2]

Akebono does, they have a "euro" line. But I'm a fan of the bendix ct-3, and I got the set for $19 on amazon, vs like $50 for akebono.

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
What does the "GG" mean?


Its a friction rating. The first letter is a friction coefficient
for 250 degress f. The second is the friction coefficient at 600 degrees f. Most pads are and ee, ef. Some are FF . GG is a very good pad! Most GG ratings are seen on motorcycle pads.


http://student.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm

 

[spasm3]

Originally Posted By: spasm3
Originally Posted By: Oil Changer
What does the "GG" mean?


Its a friction rating. The first letter is a friction coefficient
for 250 degress f. The second is the friction coefficient at 600 degrees f. Most pads are and ee, ef. Some are FF . GG is a very good pad! Most GG ratings are seen on motorcycle pads.


http://student.ccbcmd.edu/~smacadof/DOTPadCodes.htm


E: between .25 and .35
F: between .35 and .45
G: between .45 and .55

higher number is more friction.

 

[threeputtpar]

Those calipers and pads appear to be almost identical to the ones on my Audi. Here is what I did on the last pad and rotor swap.

You'll need a thin profile 15mm open end wrench to hold the inner bolt head and a 13mm box end to loosed the caliper pins. It makes it much easier with the thin 15mm, but you can press in a normal width wrench if you cannot find a thin one.

I installed the pads in the caliper carrier dry, as the Akebono Euros have a bonded shim on them already and it looks like your CT3's do too. Use SylGlide or any other silicone based lube on the caliper pins and you should be good for the life of the pads. I have yet to have any issues with my setup after 50k miles, and the rotors are really rusted. Knowing what I know now, I'd suggest to just buy new boots, bolts and pins as the set is pretty cheap at a local FLAPS.

Another helpful point is that you probably don't need to remove the caliper from the housing to get the rotor off. Just take out the lower pin and loosen the top one and pivot it up and there's enought room to remove the pads and then the rotor.

Optional: Coat the hub with grease to keep the rotor and hub from fusing together.

 

[doitmyself]

Regarding brake lube products, I follow the Larry Carly Automotive Library philosophy, which I believe The Critic also endorses.

The CRC glue type products should not be used on pads with integral shims. Supposedly, the CRC glue "can" cause the shims to be ripped off pad back through vibrations, movement, and the grabbing action of the CRC. People refute this the same way people refute use of anti-seize on lug nuts.

From CRC regarding their Brake Quiet: "For use on the back of non-shimmed disc pads."

For caliper lubrication, Larry Carley recommends a "grease" for the enclosed metal to metal and metal to rubber sliding points (booted pins, etc.) Choice????? Through experience, I prefer Sil Glyde or silicone grease (Motorcraft, etc.).

I tried the Bendix Ceramic purple lube and it dried out in one year in MY application. The synthetic green PAO Permatex product also dried out on me. Others have different results.

For exposed to weather, metal to metal, Larry Carley recommends a high solids moly PASTE product like Molykote 77. I use a product called Pastelube: http://www.gwrauto.com/pastelub.html Both have 40%+ moly and are nearly water proof (amazing). This would be used on the back of pads, ears, drum brake contact points etc..

I also use a paper thin coating of the PasteLube on the rotor hat and hub to prevent rust. It works wonderful in our salt laden climate. The stuff will not wash off your hand under the "water test", nor does it soak up water like a lithium grease does in the "sink water test".
Did I say this stuff is amazing????

My 2 cents.

 

[JHZR2]

Pastelub, huh? Where does one get it?

You know, I did have a rattling rear pad, so I may buy into the red stuff tlripping it off theory!

Any idea if the crc synthetic brake and caliper grease is like pastelub? It smells like fear oil and has both moly and ptfe in it. Available at AZ.

Was also interested in the presence of silaramic silicone grease with ceramic particles. Thought the ceramics were used in different spots than the silicones.

 

[doitmyself]

I bought my Pastelub directly from GRW, going through my workplace. I phoned the gentleman there (Gary?) and he was very polite. But, I think he might deal with businesses only. He seemed like the type who might deal with individuals if you ask nicely.....tell him you are a dedicated car hobbyist, learned of his great product,............

Molykote 77 is expensive and difficult to track down also (Pastelub was much cheaper for a whole tub).

I called CRC, thinking their black synthetic brake and caliper grease would work. Their product is a PAO based grease with less than 5% of moly/teflon/graphite. It is not the high solids paste.

Here's an oddball CarQuest link that describes my "system". Googling their moly paste part number gives no results.

http://www.docstoc.com/docs/92463194/Bulletin-CQB-00-04-Subject-Lubricating-Brake-Components-to

 

[JHZR2]

That's a good document. Hmmm, can't I pick up m77 at any honda dealer?

 

[doitmyself]

I went to my local Honda parts counter and received the deer-in-the-headlights look.

The Critic has posted a link for a tube of it. I looked into a tub, and it was over $80 if I remember correct.

I found it: http://www.hondapartsdirect.com/honda-sh...-oz/08798-9010/

Only 2.6 oz. though.

 

[KrisZ]

JHZR2, are you rebuilding these calipers? If not, you should consider doing it, since you have the calipers pulled out anyways. The caliper dust boot has seen better days and at a minimum should be replaced.