Brake pad recommendations

[admzn]

Off topic, but I miss my Pathfinder. Just got to be too much of a money pit after ~20-25k into it.

What year? This is probably the most reliable and low maintenance vehicle I've ever owned. I had one previously that went almost 600k before the rust claimed it. The one I own now is from the west coast so I park it for the winters.

More on topic, just ordered a new set of Yellowstuff for my Golf. I plan on Autocrossing it again.

 

[CKN]

What year? This is probably the most reliable and low maintenance vehicle I've ever owned. I had one previously that went almost 600k before the rust claimed it. The one I own now is from the west coast so I park it for the winters.

More on topic, just ordered a new set of Yellowstuff for my Golf. I plan on Autocrossing it again.

The Pathfinder are now uni-body vehicles. The new one has absolutely nothing in common (except maybe 4 wheels) with the one you own.

And yes-problems on the newer models are numerous.

 

[Wheel366]

What year? This is probably the most reliable and low maintenance vehicle I've ever owned. I had one previously that went almost 600k before the rust claimed it. The one I own now is from the west coast so I park it for the winters.

More on topic, just ordered a new set of Yellowstuff for my Golf. I plan on Autocrossing it again.

I had a 95. I bought mine used and I was told it was well maintained. It was not! So, after that and taking it to the wrong person who had it for god knows how long and thousands upon thousands in parts I ended up having to get a new engine. Then other things went wrong, frame rotted out and I ended up getting rid of it. It's really a long, long story that still to this day gets me pissed. Plus mine was modified. I ended up putting a 3 inch suspension lift, 2 steering kits, headers, high flow cat and borla exhaust. I do miss it though!

 

[admzn]

The Pathfinder are now uni-body vehicles. The new one has absolutely nothing in common (except maybe 4 wheels) with the one you own.

And yes-problems on the newer models are numerous.

And that's a stretch!. I knew they were unibody again. It's funny it went body on frame to unibody, back to body on frame, then to unibody again. My parents had a 93 and then a 2000. My father hated the look of the new ones so he bought a 2014 Xterra instead.

I had a 95. I bought mine used and I was told it was well maintained. It was not! So, after that and taking it to the wrong person who had it for god knows how long and thousands upon thousands in parts I ended up having to get a new engine. Then other things went wrong, frame rotted out and I ended up getting rid of it. It's really a long, long story that still to this day gets me pissed. Plus mine was modified. I ended up putting a 3 inch suspension lift, 2 steering kits, headers, high flow cat and borla exhaust. I do miss it though!

I still have my old 94 sitting at my friends shop, been meaning to pull the 3" lift out of it and the ARB bumper off. It has all the stuff yours had, except I have the gibson exhaust. Were you ever on NPORA? Frame rotted out on it although I limped it along for several more years by patching it myself... My 95 is in good shape but someone hit it a couple of years ago, it got repaired by insurance but it'll never be worth anything so I've decided to put the mods from the 94 on it.

Again sorry for the off topic lol.

 

[englertracing]

PFC ceramic metallic
Make an Fing mess of your wheels though

 

[Wheel366]

And that's a stretch!. I knew they were unibody again. It's funny it went body on frame to unibody, back to body on frame, then to unibody again. My parents had a 93 and then a 2000. My father hated the look of the new ones so he bought a 2014 Xterra instead.


I still have my old 94 sitting at my friends shop, been meaning to pull the 3" lift out of it and the ARB bumper off. It has all the stuff yours had, except I have the gibson exhaust. Were you ever on NPORA? Frame rotted out on it although I limped it along for several more years by patching it myself... My 95 is in good shape but someone hit it a couple of years ago, it got repaired by insurance but it'll never be worth anything so I've decided to put the mods from the 94 on it.

Again sorry for the off topic lol.

I was on NPORA. That is where I got the idea for all the mods. Definitely a waste of 20k+ on my part but again I do miss it.

 

[TiGeo]

I've replaced pads/rotors on 3 of my vehicles this year. 1) EBC Redstuff (VW Golf Sportwagen) 2) Centric Posi-Quiet (VW Atlas) and 3) Powerstop Z23 Evolution Sport (Lexus RX350). Been happy with all of them in their respective applications. The Redstuff pads are v. dusty even though they are marketed as being low dust but I do drive that car hard so obviously that plays into it - don't really care about the dust b/c the brakes on that car are excellent (has ducts, ss lines, Motul fluid, slotted rotors). The Centrics and Powerstops have been v. low dust and stop the SUVs well. When I got the Lexus from my parents (for one of my children), the braking was appalling/verging on dangerous. The Powerstop kit (f/r) sorted it 100%. I actually have stains on my driveway from washing my Golf from all the brake dust..hahaha.

 

[82c10]

I've had no issue with AAP Platinum or Gold, Thermoquiets, OEX, Hawk, Raybestos. I service a lot family and friends vehicles. I always replace rotors and any hardware. The only brakes I ever had issue with was EBC and when someone brings El cheapos.

 

[TiGeo]

I've had no issue with AAP Platinum or Gold, Thermoquiets, OEX, Hawk, Raybestos. I service a lot family and friends vehicles. I always replace rotors and any hardware. The only brakes I ever had issue with was EBC and when someone brings El cheapos.

What issue did you have with EBC?

 

[brslds]

-data based purely on brake pads only. Does not account for brake system variations etc among manufacturers and their models. Take it with a grain of salt.

The thing about ratings is that you have to consider context. I am giving you example of top notch manufacturers. Personally, I would never buy Duralast etc. Now, when you talk about TMD (Textar), ATE, Hawk, Brembo, Akebono, etc. those are top tier manufacturers.
GG rated Akebono are designed with one thing in mind: delivering brake performance at relatively high temperatures. However, you did not pay for your Akebono's $612 like that BMW has on (probably ATE). Reason is that BMW M needs very high torque pad that delivers much more brake force immediately. Compound used in Akebono Pro ACT etc. cannot deliver that. Plus, average driver of Altima, Sienna etc. does not want wheels to look like they have been in coal mine.
The compound used in these FF rated pads (let's talk regular pads like on my BMW) offers much more torque than anything Akebono GG (I had them on VW CC). That allows me to use brake less, allows more force to be utilized in less time, hence keeping temperatures low. Allows better feel and adjustment etc. unlike Akebono that are compared to Textar, ATE, Pagid very soft and require more travel etc.
So GG rated Akebono ProAct or whatever will deliver decent force at low and high temperatures. FF rated pads (I am talking top tier manufacturers, which Akebono is) will deliver more force, will allow more adjustment, etc. They will maybe be less capable at 800f than at 200, but they will still deliver a lot of force. But more importantly, bcs of force, I might not at all get to 800f, hence I will strain pads less, rotors, fluid.
Now, take this into consideration. Akebono makes for Toyota GG rated ceramic pads for Sienna, for Lexus with F-Sport packages, IS F models, it makes FF rated pads.
So, chasing performance based on ratings is really wrong way of doing it.

I am not sure what you mean by this, Akebono pads for my BMW are more expensive than ATE actually which are OE supplier.
AK GG: designed for soccer moms having love affair with brake pedal.
AK FF: designed for performance vehicles.

Two things....
First: Your analogy with car brands to explain brake pad differences is where the source of frustration is coming from with that other dude. Also you come off as superficial and parroting info that stereotypically becomes watered down as it makes its way through the masses. I believe the intent of this thread was to elicit recommendations in this format: "If you're looking for ceramic I recommend akebono (ACT, ASP, ULTRA, EURO: take your pick), semi-metallic ceramic hybrid maybe raybestos 3ht, semi-metallic then maybe HAWK HPS, carbon ceramic: stick with OEM".

Second: You're speaking as if the different brake systems (especially those similar to whats in the M series) play no major role in braking characteristics and by doing so you're not comparing apples to apples. This really undermines your statement that FF rated brake pads in a M series has more bite than a GG rated pad. That is incorrect logic and application of the purpose of the DOT friction codes. I'm also going to point out 2 things you've not addressed: M series brake pads are carbon ceramic and FF is the recommended minimum rating for a performance brake pad. Lets not beat around the bush with what I'm getting at, you talk about context but you've taken things out of context. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-391464-front-brake-pad-set/ & https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-198766-genuine-bmw-brake-pads-front-f87-m2-f80-m3-f82-m4/ Just some actual M series brakes that show they come higher than FF ratings (ratings are mixed) as well as aftermarket brands that you've even mentioned coming in GG rating. So your point that luxury sports cars come with FF rated pads because its better is contradicting. Honestly without looking it up I would bet luxury car manufacturers use of FF rated pads is really a reflection on profits and their OEM manufacturing process. This would make sense of the mixed ratings in the link I've supplied.

P.S. I almost forgot to reply to your post where you mention akebono is more expensive than ATE (you state they're an OEM provider too). I mean lets be honest here, if you own an M series, and are a driving enthusiast as well, its your money but you will pay to play. Be real when sharing your choices in brand products for your maintenance needs. No need to hide budget limits with fluff.

 

[dogememe]

Akebono ASP, Wagner OEX, or Raybestos EHT

Pair them with the coated rotors of your choice

Wagner OEX dusts terribly on my Escape. Granted the way I drive it is not how most people drive their 4cyl Escapes but that's beside the point.

 

[edyvw]

-data based purely on brake pads only. Does not account for brake system variations etc among manufacturers and their models. Take it with a grain of salt.


Two things....
First: Your analogy with car brands to explain brake pad differences is where the source of frustration is coming from with that other dude. Also you come off as superficial and parroting info that stereotypically becomes watered down as it makes its way through the masses. I believe the intent of this thread was to elicit recommendations in this format: "If you're looking for ceramic I recommend akebono (ACT, ASP, ULTRA, EURO: take your pick), semi-metallic ceramic hybrid maybe raybestos 3ht, semi-metallic then maybe HAWK HPS, carbon ceramic: stick with OEM".

Second: You're speaking as if the different brake systems (especially those similar to whats in the M series) play no major role in braking characteristics and by doing so you're not comparing apples to apples. This really undermines your statement that FF rated brake pads in a M series has more bite than a GG rated pad. That is incorrect logic and application of the purpose of the DOT friction codes. I'm also going to point out 2 things you've not addressed: M series brake pads are carbon ceramic and FF is the recommended minimum rating for a performance brake pad. Lets not beat around the bush with what I'm getting at, you talk about context but you've taken things out of context. https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-391464-front-brake-pad-set/ & https://www.turnermotorsport.com/p-198766-genuine-bmw-brake-pads-front-f87-m2-f80-m3-f82-m4/ Just some actual M series brakes that show they come higher than FF ratings (ratings are mixed) as well as aftermarket brands that you've even mentioned coming in GG rating. So your point that luxury sports cars come with FF rated pads because its better is contradicting. Honestly without looking it up I would bet luxury car manufacturers use of FF rated pads is really a reflection on profits and their OEM manufacturing process. This would make sense of the mixed ratings in the link I've supplied.

P.S. I almost forgot to reply to your post where you mention akebono is more expensive than ATE (you state they're an OEM provider too). I mean lets be honest here, if you own an M series, and are a driving enthusiast as well, its your money but you will pay to play. Be real when sharing your choices in brand products for your maintenance needs. No need to hide budget limits with fluff.

I am not sure you fallowed this thread.
1. First of all, I tried to point that FF or GG is not going to be indicative of performance. There is a reason why manufacturers jumped on ceramic compound like Akebono provides as it is more suitable for appliance vehicles and drivers who use brake pedal a lot. I replied as it seems people take DOT ratings as indication of performance, and that is not only here. On some BMW forums you have people who think that Akebono are track worthy pad as it is GG rated.
2. I gave him in purpose polar opposite example of a vehicle that has some of the best braking system any sport limousine has. And precisely, you are right, they are Carbon based, yet they are rated as FF (DOT has same rules for all pads). You are right, rest of the system is absolutely important. Even my 328 has cooling tunnels leading to calipers let alone M models. My point is that DOT rating is just one thing among many others, and actually not as important as people would like to think. It is not that simple.
3. I mentioned how ATE is cheaper than Akebono for my vehicles, 9 year old 328, after his comment. I would always put ATE, Pagid, Textar before anything Akebono makes for Euro vehicles (I tried them. They are absolute POS from performance perspective. No dust though, hence popularity among Euro owners).
4. I am not sure manufacturers are trying to cut cost by offering FF instead of GG on limousines. Toyota offers on minivans GG rated Akebonos, while on Lexus GS350 they offer FF. It does not make sense from cost perspective, however, it makes every sense from expected utilization of an vehicle to have ceramic pads on minivan like AK, and semi-metallic on GS350.

 

[brslds]

I am not sure you fallowed this thread.
1. First of all, I tried to point that FF or GG is not going to be indicative of performance. There is a reason why manufacturers jumped on ceramic compound like Akebono provides as it is more suitable for appliance vehicles and drivers who use brake pedal a lot. I replied as it seems people take DOT ratings as indication of performance, and that is not only here. On some BMW forums you have people who think that Akebono are track worthy pad as it is GG rated.
2. I gave him in purpose polar opposite example of a vehicle that has some of the best braking system any sport limousine has. And precisely, you are right, they are Carbon based, yet they are rated as FF (DOT has same rules for all pads). You are right, rest of the system is absolutely important. Even my 328 has cooling tunnels leading to calipers let alone M models. My point is that DOT rating is just one thing among many others, and actually not as important as people would like to think. It is not that simple.
3. I mentioned how ATE is cheaper than Akebono for my vehicles, 9 year old 328, after his comment. I would always put ATE, Pagid, Textar before anything Akebono makes for Euro vehicles (I tried them. They are absolute POS from performance perspective. No dust though, hence popularity among Euro owners).
4. I am not sure manufacturers are trying to cut cost by offering FF instead of GG on limousines. Toyota offers on minivans GG rated Akebonos, while on Lexus GS350 they offer FF. It does not make sense from cost perspective, however, it makes every sense from expected utilization of an vehicle to have ceramic pads on minivan like AK, and semi-metallic on GS350.

I followed this thread and I've directly pointed out my main points to your responses. I've read your response in its entirety and you still aren't tracking or aren't comprehending what I'm saying (are you one of those people who are guilty of only reading article titles and pretending as if you read the whole article??). Not going to bother talking in circles with you because you're still comparing apples to oranges. You're not properly comprehending the purpose of the DOT code, various types of braking systems, brake pad material categories, how it all works together, and you obviously have an agenda with akebono and their GG line...maybe GG pads in general.

 

[Pew]

Coefficient values in a thread about pads for towing and heat fade? Being able to modulate the brake pedal with your feet in a smooth controllable manner is worth a lot more than straight up grabbing and stopping. Hawk and wilwood have a bad history of this. It makes a car feel more sporty, and the owner thinks their brakes are good. But the great thing about pads is that they're easily changeable to suit whatever the owner wants.

 

[brslds]

Lol.

 

[edyvw]

I followed this thread and I've directly pointed out my main points to your responses. I've read your response in its entirety and you still aren't tracking or aren't comprehending what I'm saying (are you one of those people who are guilty of only reading article titles and pretending as if you read the whole article??). Not going to bother talking in circles with you because you're still comparing apples to oranges. You're not properly comprehending the purpose of the DOT code, various types of braking systems, brake pad material categories, how it all works together, and you obviously have an agenda with akebono and their GG line...maybe GG pads in general.

Sure, agenda Do you sleep with GG pads so you think other people have personal relationship to them? You assuming that I do not take into consideration other aspects of brake component system. I am not sure why it needs to be repeated every time what else influences performance (including calipers, pad material etc). If you cannot comprehend what I was trying to say, oh well, more happiness to you and GG pads.

 

[TiGeo]

Well, at least I can now say this post got me to educate myself on the difference between FF and GG

 

[brslds]

Sure, agenda Do you sleep with GG pads so you think other people have personal relationship to them? You assuming that I do not take into consideration other aspects of brake component system. I am not sure why it needs to be repeated every time what else influences performance (including calipers, pad material etc). If you cannot comprehend what I was trying to say, oh well, more happiness to you and GG pads.

Never stated what my pads are and your assumption is wrong. I honestly don't care what you're trying to say at this point because all you do is back track and try to twist your responses. Best of luck to you with your driving experience tho.

 

[Donald]

Thank God I do not live in the rust / salt belt !

I watch Eric O.'s videos on his South Main Auto channel on youtube .

He lives in up state NY and you should see some of the rust buckets he works on ! And , yes , he does lots of brake jobs .

You NY'ers have my sympathy ! :-(

It's not just the rust. It's the NY taxes also.

 

[EBC Brakes UK]

I just installed a new set of EBC Green stuff pads over the weekend on the front of my 95 and the difference was huge after the break in. I will never in my life by Wagner thermoquiet pads again. The closest description to the feeling would be the first time you hit the brakes after coming out of the car wash on a cold day.

No EBC for the rear so we just went with a set of the local parts house brand.

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