Brake fluid change!??

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I did a closer look at the brake fluid reservoir and this is the finding;
all in all, I should do it yesterday not today; I check on the accord its condition and it looked much better
ill do turkey baster fluid replacement today while im deciding on the tool, im getting to get the job done

View attachment 35878View attachment 35879View attachment 35880


photo taken after a bit of cleanup

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Fluid still looks like coffee. Should look like,

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Here is a shot out of the owners manual for a 2020 Silverado. GM says to change the brake fluid every 5 years. By the way it says to replace the AC desiccant every 7 years one more thing for Bitoggers to worry about. :D

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I was wondering what's the community take on changing brake fluid; Case in point, my 16 CRV is four years old now and since Honda recommends change brake fluid every three years I was wondering is it worth it and do you guys follow up with brake fluid change interval on your car;

I spoke to a Honda service department here locally and they're asking $140 after the coupon for such service; I also ask fo the price of the fluid DOT3 and I was quoted $6.00 for a container; the parts guy said i'd need one container only

needless to say, my Accord has better stopping power than our CRV
The first flush is at three years, then every two years after that. And yes, should absolutely follow that at a minimum.

I really like the BMW fluid. It is a low viscosity DOT 4. The low viscosity allows the ABS/traction control to work better in the winter months, exactly when you need it the most. I normally do a full pressure flush every year in the fall.
 
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I did a closer look at the brake fluid reservoir and this is the finding;
all in all, I should do it yesterday not today; I check on the accord its condition and it looked much better
ill do turkey baster fluid replacement today while im deciding on the tool, im getting to get the job done

View attachment 35878View attachment 35879View attachment 35880


photo taken after a bit of cleanup

View attachment 35881

That discolouration is actually algae. Old brake fluid contains a lot of moisture and allows it to grow. Nearly impossible to stop once it has started.
 
I change brake fluid every 10th oil change, since my OCIs are 4K miles, that's anyplace between 2 and 3 years.
I find it easier to work on things and to maintain records this way - doing maintenance during oil changes, e.g. CAF - every 4th oil change, tire rotation - every 2nd oil change, coolant - every 10th oil change, you get the point? I also save time this way since say air filter can be changed while oil is getting grained.
 
For what it's worth, I've driven several vehicles well beyond 200K miles...and a couple past 300K miles and never changed the brake fluid in any of them. Never had any issues.
I've seen vehicles go 300k+ on original transmission and gear oil and almost 60k miles on cheap bulk conventional oil with no issues. That doesn't make it a good idea.
 
I've seen vehicles go 300k+ on original transmission and gear oil and almost 60k miles on cheap bulk conventional oil with no issues. That doesn't make it a good idea.
Yep...and I've seen transmissions and engines fail before 100K miles that were serviced regularly per the manufacturer recommendations. Who's to say what's a good idea or not. Do what works for you...and so will I.
 
I think that's is what they are alluding to; the idea is to bleed out fluid in its own; my problem with that procedure what happens with the air, to me it would get air in the system by that way

I should have mentioned - on the CRV anyway - be careful and keep the reservoir full - it is so close to the firewall that it can be difficult to see the fluid level. If you use the bottle method that someone posted, it's a couple slow pumps - refill, and repeat. Some say you can damage the brake booster if you fully bottom out the pedal - so I stop just short for the floor.

If you need an example - see How to do a Complete Brake Flush and Bleed - YouTube

On mine I noticed a firmer pedal and better braking - so I'm a convert. I bought a cheap vacuum pump from harbor freight - but the reservoir is too small to do a full flush.

Brake Bleeder and Vacuum Pump Kit (harborfreight.com)

I went back to the bottle and tube and use the plastic attachments from the harbor freight pump. (The wire-ties work well too if you want to go that route.)

If you start with the longest brake run, most of the old fluid comes out on the first wheel, and the rest are just a few pumps and most of the rusty stuff is out.

There is a video in the link below. Slow and steady is the key - if you pump like a lunatic, you can aerate the fluid (opposite of what you want).

Honda specific example here -

Bleeding the Brake System | EricTheCarGuy or How to do a Complete Brake Flush and Bleed - YouTube

If I can do it - trust me, anyone can. It honestly takes longer to remove the tires than anything, but is really is the most bang for your DIY buck. (I'm giving myself the award for the most use of "pumps" in a post).
 
From my experience back in the day of using the ATE fluids that used to be available in blue and gold, that short of a leak, fluid in the reservoir does not readily reach the wheel calipers or cylinders in any reasonable length of time. Maybe eventually, but not over the 2-3 year intervals I use.
 
Yep...and I've seen transmissions and engines fail before 100K miles that were serviced regularly per the manufacturer recommendations. Who's to say what's a good idea or not. Do what works for you...and so will I.
If you neglect maintenance and get lucky, good for you. Just trying to keep that kind of recommendation from being spread around.

Btw I'm driving a 16 year old Silverado with original fluid except for what was topped up when one caliper failed. It's the next fluid for me to change (they were all left way beyond a reasonable time). It looks terrible and needs to be done to prevent further damage (like another caliper or worse). Like I said before, just because it made it that long doesn't make it good.
 
I like to change fluid every 3-4 years on my vehicles.
I used turkey baster to scoop fluid from the reservoir and it was that dirty; on the outside, you can not tell how dirty it was but once you start to scoop it from inside, there is that black sediment that stays at the bottom of the reservoir; so yes 3 years max for fluid replacement
 
I still don’t get why you guys are using turkey basters! Syringes are cheap online and at Walmart and result in absolutely zero mess.
 

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If you neglect maintenance and get lucky, good for you. Just trying to keep that kind of recommendation from being spread around.

Btw I'm driving a 16 year old Silverado with original fluid except for what was topped up when one caliper failed. It's the next fluid for me to change (they were all left way beyond a reasonable time). It looks terrible and needs to be done to prevent further damage (like another caliper or worse). Like I said before, just because it made it that long doesn't make it good.
Whoever said my experience was a "recommendation"? Whoever said my experiences were luck? You're certainly entitled to your opinion. Keep in mind, I have nearly 15 years as an automotive service professional...and about twice as long as a hobbyist. I know a bit about it.
 
Whoever said my experience was a "recommendation"? Whoever said my experiences were luck? You're certainly entitled to your opinion. Keep in mind, I have nearly 15 years as an automotive service professional...and about twice as long as a hobbyist. I know a bit about it.
Then maybe you should have said it wasn't really a recommendation. I'll leave it at that.
 
Some posters have more credibility than others. I'm no mechanical Einstein, but I have sense enough to listen to those who do have ability. LISTEN when Trav, The Critic, Molakule, clinebarger or such gives advice. Several posts ago, The Critic suggested to use a Motive power bleeder. You can buy one for (usually) less than half the cost of one dealer brake (flush). I've used mine over a dozen times on 4 cars, so my (now) cost per usage is getting in the price range of lunch at a fast food joint. To anyone who thinks you're doing any good with a "turkey baster," you're fooling yourself. Here's a picture of used brake fluid and water. So explain to me how you're removing condensation, old contaminated fluid and water from your wheel cylinders with a turkey baster unless you mount your vehicle on a Rotisserie and turn it upside down?Brake fluid & water.webp
 
I still don’t get why you guys are using turkey basters! Syringes are cheap online and at Walmart and result in absolutely zero mess.
I've never stumbled upon that type of suction and that's a better option than the baster; meanwhile, I got me some liquid pump at Walmart yesterday for $10

this is how it looks at the second flush 2 cars; I figured if I get dirty for doing fluid change on CRV I may just as well do the same on Accord

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Some posters have more credibility than others. I'm no mechanical Einstein, but I have sense enough to listen to those who do have ability. LISTEN when Trav, The Critic, Molakule, clinebarger or such gives advice. Several posts ago, The Critic suggested to use a Motive power bleeder. You can buy one for (usually) less than half the cost of one dealer brake (flush). I've used mine over a dozen times on 4 cars, so my (now) cost per usage is getting in the price range of lunch at a fast food joint. To anyone who thinks you're doing any good with a "turkey baster," you're fooling yourself. Here's a picture of used brake fluid and water. So explain to me how you're removing condensation, old contaminated fluid and water from your wheel cylinders with a turkey baster unless you mount your vehicle on a Rotisserie and turn it upside down?View attachment 35973
Im pretty sure the turkey baster is just for taking the old fluid out of the reservoir, that way you don't have to waste time bleeding it out through the calipers. In the end you still replace a majority of the old fluid.
 
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