2x on the gravity drain. I do it every brake job. ''An ounce of prevention..."
Brake fluid change!??
- Thread starter miden851
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Pressure bleed baby!
Low pressure, by the way...
Low pressure, by the way...
I change the fluid AND remove the reservoir to clean the inside of it if it's been more than 5 years, otherwise the crud that's inside will contaminate the new fluid.
What I see missing from the responses here is the benefit of doing the flush. With ABS, traction control and stability control all using the brake hydraulic system to function, the risk of not getting fresh fluid in the lines is going to negatively impact the function of these safety features. Worst case is the car doesn't perform to original design when you are trying to avoid an accident.
If you don't want to DIY, spending $140 every 3 years is not too bad IMHO.
If you don't want to DIY, spending $140 every 3 years is not too bad IMHO.
honestly, i was considering for them take care of it but now i'm thinking for $150 i can get me all tools needed to do this job done my own and open a small pope shop next door, doing brake fluid replacement
gathermewool
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The lines were not blocked. Both rears began to immediately trickle via gravity before I continued with vacuum. The contents of the dark, dark fluid was viscous, but not hard or even gelatinous. This was in a five or so year-old ‘08 Civic BTW. The previous owner had all service records, including an ATF change by the dealer, but they failed to ever change the brake fluid before we bought it off them. The fluid in both calipers wasn’t nearly as bad, but still way darker/hazier than the reservoir.
I don’t see that routinely either; in fact, it’s the only time I’ve ever seen brake fluid that nasty on a supposedly well-maintained car. It sounds like you’ve seen something similar before, since you said you don’t see that “routinely” instead saying you haven’t ever seen that.
the screw threads are not air-tight, but the caliper is lower than the reservoir, which is the highest point in the entire system. You can pull the fitting out of the caliper and you’d still be fine. What am I missing?
All matter interacts with other matter and with itself no matter how small the relative motions. Just because every single atom of my laptop is vibrating at some variable, temperature and structure-based frequency doesn’t mean it’s going to vibrate off of the table any time soon...Apply similar log to brake fluid between the reservoir and the caliper and you’d be waiting an extremely long time for these fluids to mix, IMO. Besides, I would say the pulsing of master cylinder during braking results in way more motive force one way and then the other, providing the MAJORITY of the mixing, irrespective of brake fluid miscibility.
I did the "replace the brake fluid in the master cylinder only" thing for a few years, and ran into trouble with the hydraulic clutch last winter. The moisture in the fluid froze, almost disabling the clutch. Limped the car home and bled the clutch, removing a lot of nasty stuff, and all was well. (The clutch does not have its own master cylinder - it shares a common master cylinder with the brakes.). The nasty stuff came out first, at the lowest point of the system.
This pretty much convinced me that brake fluid does not circulate enough for me to neglect bleeding the slave cylinders, brake or clutch.
This pretty much convinced me that brake fluid does not circulate enough for me to neglect bleeding the slave cylinders, brake or clutch.
This is the best brake reservoir adapter for Honda's IME:I thank you each and everyone for your input; I currently have an old open brake fluid container and turkey baster among the tools, so time is to update my inventory
https://asttool.com/detail_page.php?tool_number=HONBC26
Pair it with a Motive Pressure Bleeder (be sure to get the quick connect fittings) and you will have everything needed to perform brake flushes for the same (or less) than one flush from the dealer.
BTW, never use open containers of brake fluid unless they are very recent (weeks old).
This setup works well. Key is not to open the bleeder too far - I still often see bubbles in the tube (air is getting past the threads). I have even used a bit of silicone grease around the threads to seal them. Seems to prevent rust too.Gravity bleed works well if you’ve got the time. I make sure the bleed bottle and tubing are above the caliper and the end of the tubing is in fluid. Make sure the tubing is on tight, use a zip tie and only open the bleeders a 1/4 turn, no air will get in from there. You can also pump the brakes by yourself this way since air will not enter through the tubing when you let off the pedal.
Can someone tell me how a gravity bleed works? Do you crack the bleeders and just let it leak all over?
Every two years. Rebuilt all calipers on my 04 this fall. No rust found. Caliper piston seals all looked like new. Also replaced the flex hoses.
I'm a huge believer in regular brake fluid change. Both my wife's Outback and my E350 include brake fluid change in the maintenance schedules. There is always a clear difference between the old fluid and the new going in. And it always pays off in brake pedal feel.
I use the Motive brake bleeder method, and would highly recommend it to anyone. I recognize that it is an added cost in shop tools, but well worth it. Before getting the Motive, I tried the two man method on several occasions, and was never happy with the results.
I use the Motive brake bleeder method, and would highly recommend it to anyone. I recognize that it is an added cost in shop tools, but well worth it. Before getting the Motive, I tried the two man method on several occasions, and was never happy with the results.
VW has it at every 2 years in maintenance manual, they recently changed it to 3 years before first exchange then 2 years thereafter. Previously it was every 2 years even the 1st change. Nice peace of mind considering the price of the hydraulic ABS pumps and all the other fluid exposed parts in the system.
Motive power bleeder is excellent 1 man method and makes it incredibly easy, prob similar to vacuum methods. Just have to keep checking the MC reservoir so you don't run it dry and pump air into everything.
Back when I would do this myself I would switch between the DOT 4 ATE SuperBlue and the DOT 4 ATE golden, made it no-brainer to see when the majority of the old fluid was evacuated. You could watch the blue or golden stream start and increase in volume as the flush commenced, switching back to blue it would stay golden for a long while even after it appeared to run clear so I imagine going golden to golden it might leave some old fluid in the system.
Motive power bleeder is excellent 1 man method and makes it incredibly easy, prob similar to vacuum methods. Just have to keep checking the MC reservoir so you don't run it dry and pump air into everything.
Back when I would do this myself I would switch between the DOT 4 ATE SuperBlue and the DOT 4 ATE golden, made it no-brainer to see when the majority of the old fluid was evacuated. You could watch the blue or golden stream start and increase in volume as the flush commenced, switching back to blue it would stay golden for a long while even after it appeared to run clear so I imagine going golden to golden it might leave some old fluid in the system.
I think that's is what they are alluding to; the idea is to bleed out fluid in its own; my problem with that procedure what happens with the air, to me it would get air in the system by that way
My Ranger has never been done...........
For what it's worth, I've driven several vehicles well beyond 200K miles...and a couple past 300K miles and never changed the brake fluid in any of them. Never had any issues.
I think this was a typo on VWs part. My 2017 Golf's maintenance guide says 3 years initially then two years after, but my dad's 2019 Passat guide said every 2 years. I got a notice a few months ago in the mail saying it was changed to 3 years initially then two years after. Someone doing some careless copy and pasting methinks
Every car enthusiast has their own take on it based on use, etc. I recently had mine done along with other fluid exchanges at the dealership as I chose them primarily because of being sure the CVT fluid was done to Nissan specs. The brake fluid at that point was the factory fill and was about 7 yrs old/74K miles and was still functioning fine. With the new fluid brake performance doesn't feel any different and of course looks don't mean much, but what was in the system was quite clean looking as well. Granted if looked at in a scientific way I'm sure the old fluid had degraded somewhat, but in real world use there was no noticeable difference. Can't complain with the cost as the flush was around $90 and I don't plan to bother with it again at least until 50K more miles or 3-4 yrs. At that point I will redo the pads (Akebono again, like them better than factory) as well as new rotors as I think the should be swapped out every other pad change for best results.
As I had mentioned in a previous thread, Nissan recommends the brake fluid be exchanged around a 20K mile interval and I will gladly call total B.S. on that. Unless a ride is being driven under water there's absolutely no way fluid can truly degrade in such a short time frame under typical real world every day use.
As I had mentioned in a previous thread, Nissan recommends the brake fluid be exchanged around a 20K mile interval and I will gladly call total B.S. on that. Unless a ride is being driven under water there's absolutely no way fluid can truly degrade in such a short time frame under typical real world every day use.
I did a closer look at the brake fluid reservoir and this is the finding;
all in all, I should do it yesterday not today; I check on the accord its condition and it looked much better
ill do turkey baster fluid replacement today while im deciding on the tool, im getting to get the job done
photo taken after a bit of cleanup
all in all, I should do it yesterday not today; I check on the accord its condition and it looked much better
ill do turkey baster fluid replacement today while im deciding on the tool, im getting to get the job done
photo taken after a bit of cleanup
Absolutely it should be changed. I've done 2 flushes on my 5.5 year old Tacoma and I've done 2 on my daughter's Yaris that she's had for 3 years. The wife’s car is a little too new yet. But in about a year it will get flushed as well.
Valoline DOT 3/4 is my go-to juice
Valoline DOT 3/4 is my go-to juice
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