MC will work great. I use that in our Sentra along with Valvoline, and QS Dino. Our 2.0 loves it all.
Bought a new 2011 Versa S hatchback. Advice?
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I give that oil a
!
CROWNVIC4LIFE uses it in his vic's, and has with great results!
UOA's are great to!
CROWNVIC4LIFE uses it in his vic's, and has with great results!
UOA's are great to!
wow! first off, you consider Philly to be cold? LOL! Try Saskatchewan for crying out loud! (we use 5W30 /5W20 there all year long).
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
MC syn blend is a very good oil, use it with confidence.
Originally Posted By: Quest
wow! first off, you consider Philly to be cold? LOL! Try Saskatchewan for crying out loud! (we use 5W30 /5W20 there all year long).
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
Sorry, I just meant the colder months of the year. I wouldn't say it's cold but we do have winters.
And since the car is new and will do lots of short trips, it falls more towards Nissan's "Severe Service" OCI of 3750. I probably won't do much more than 4k per oil change until I am out of warranty.
Thanks to everyone else for the good MC feedback. I feel it should do good considering the price and my OCIs.
wow! first off, you consider Philly to be cold? LOL! Try Saskatchewan for crying out loud! (we use 5W30 /5W20 there all year long).
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
Sorry, I just meant the colder months of the year. I wouldn't say it's cold but we do have winters.
And since the car is new and will do lots of short trips, it falls more towards Nissan's "Severe Service" OCI of 3750. I probably won't do much more than 4k per oil change until I am out of warranty.
Thanks to everyone else for the good MC feedback. I feel it should do good considering the price and my OCIs.
Good luck finding MC 5-30 [5-20 abounds].
Pennzoil yellow bottle is very good, too.
Pennzoil yellow bottle is very good, too.
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Good luck finding MC 5-30 [5-20 abounds].
Pennzoil yellow bottle is very good, too.
I would have no problem using PYB. The price is definitely right. Is PYB considered a blend in anyway like the MC?
Good luck finding MC 5-30 [5-20 abounds].
Pennzoil yellow bottle is very good, too.
I would have no problem using PYB. The price is definitely right. Is PYB considered a blend in anyway like the MC?
Originally Posted By: Quest
wow! first off, you consider Philly to be cold? LOL! Try Saskatchewan for crying out loud! (we use 5W30 /5W20 there all year long).
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
OT, You think Saskatchewan is cold? You should come here to the North Pole. We can't even drive, I have to use a sled. Any recommendation as to what oil I should use for my sled?
wow! first off, you consider Philly to be cold? LOL! Try Saskatchewan for crying out loud! (we use 5W30 /5W20 there all year long).
also 3750 miles OCI? I'd put in 5000miles OCI on your car if I were you.
OT, You think Saskatchewan is cold? You should come here to the North Pole. We can't even drive, I have to use a sled. Any recommendation as to what oil I should use for my sled?
For warranty 3750 changes I would go Pennzoil yellow bottle. It's latest formula seems slightly better than before. 5w30 yellow bottle is my vote. I used that for NE Ohio winters with no issues or abnormal noises etc.
When I got my Buick it had AGIP motor oil in it (according to the window sticker). And on 20 degree mornings it would tick for 5 to 10 seconds. Once I dropped that and replaced with Pennzoil I never heard it again.
When I got my Buick it had AGIP motor oil in it (according to the window sticker). And on 20 degree mornings it would tick for 5 to 10 seconds. Once I dropped that and replaced with Pennzoil I never heard it again.
Were you not satisfied with the answers from your other thread?
ORIGINAL THREAD
ORIGINAL THREAD
And with that I'm going to merge this thread into the original one.. And I'm sure there will not be another one created by the OP.
For a small car like this what would you guys suggest with when to change out the trans and rear differential fluids?
I know the manual trans uses Nissan's "genuine gear oil" which is by Chevron (75w-80).
I hear people say 30k. I almost want to say that feels a bit soon with modern cars, but again I really don't know.
Any suggestions?
I know the manual trans uses Nissan's "genuine gear oil" which is by Chevron (75w-80).
I hear people say 30k. I almost want to say that feels a bit soon with modern cars, but again I really don't know.
Any suggestions?
Does it have a rear differential? If it's not AWD (is the Versa available in AWD?), it won't. The transmission fluid in a FWD setup typically lubricates the differential also, so you'd just need the transmission fluid. In a manual, 30k miles sounds reasonable. I changed the MT fluid in my '07 Corolla at about 25k miles, and there appeared to be plenty of gunk in the fluid. MTs don't typically have filters, so nothing removes any garbage from the fluid. I'd drain it after the first year and then go from there.
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Does it have a rear differential? If it's not AWD (is the Versa available in AWD?), it won't.
Oops, my bad. I didn't even mean to type rear. Just used to doing it. : )
Thanks for the advice.
Does it have a rear differential? If it's not AWD (is the Versa available in AWD?), it won't.
Oops, my bad. I didn't even mean to type rear. Just used to doing it. : )
Thanks for the advice.
We can be pretty crazy sometimes. Before I came here and got a new motorcycle I changed the oil three times before the recommended 600mi firt oil change. Looking back it was totally a waste and probably counter productive.
Stick to the book! Don't sway from it unless you really have it 'figured out'.
Don't set the cruise until you change the oil. I wouldn't say rap on the redline, but get it good and warm and go through the gears and powerband a few times early on.
I would change the MTF around 6k then follow the manual. My manual states for it to be done at 6k then never again, so I guess there is some debris in a new transmission.
Having said that, I think you will enjoy your new car. I too had a Z28 (97 6spd) and I was going off to college and didnt want a note and all of a sudden desired fuel economy (previously I hated anything 'practical'). So I sold the Z and went looking. Found a Ford Aspire 5spd on a trade in at a rental dealership. $1000 later it was mine and I've never looked back. Best car I ever had. Going from a 3500lb car to one that is 2000lbs puts thingsin perspective. No more electronic tomfoolery, no power windows, locks, steering, hydraulic clutch, auto headlights, etc you get the drill.
This 63hp 1 ton car was MORE fun to drive than the 300hp LT1. Win-win situation for me and I hope for you too. If you ever need your speed fix, you can just get a used motorcycle in your flavor for probably less than $3500.
Also, you'll love your hatchback. If its like my old Ford you can fit just about anything in there and THEN lay your seats down and it will swallow even more. Also, hatchbacks are ideal for a subwoofer. Something else I miss, trunks suck. I think they're heavier too!
Stick to the book! Don't sway from it unless you really have it 'figured out'.
Don't set the cruise until you change the oil. I wouldn't say rap on the redline, but get it good and warm and go through the gears and powerband a few times early on.
I would change the MTF around 6k then follow the manual. My manual states for it to be done at 6k then never again, so I guess there is some debris in a new transmission.
Having said that, I think you will enjoy your new car. I too had a Z28 (97 6spd) and I was going off to college and didnt want a note and all of a sudden desired fuel economy (previously I hated anything 'practical'). So I sold the Z and went looking. Found a Ford Aspire 5spd on a trade in at a rental dealership. $1000 later it was mine and I've never looked back. Best car I ever had. Going from a 3500lb car to one that is 2000lbs puts thingsin perspective. No more electronic tomfoolery, no power windows, locks, steering, hydraulic clutch, auto headlights, etc you get the drill.
This 63hp 1 ton car was MORE fun to drive than the 300hp LT1. Win-win situation for me and I hope for you too. If you ever need your speed fix, you can just get a used motorcycle in your flavor for probably less than $3500.
Also, you'll love your hatchback. If its like my old Ford you can fit just about anything in there and THEN lay your seats down and it will swallow even more. Also, hatchbacks are ideal for a subwoofer. Something else I miss, trunks suck. I think they're heavier too!
Thanks for the comment. The manual doesn't talk about the factory fill oil, just to change it at 3750 for severe conditions and 7500 for normal. The UOA's I found on factory fill Nissan's don't seem to be anything special, so at about 1000 miles I plan on switching to Pennzoil Platinum since I had good UOAs with it in the past and sticking to the manufacter's OCI of about 4k.
I didn't really know changing the MT fluid so early was recommended around here. I was going to wait about 30k but now I am a little unsure. I guess I will keep on searching for info on here. : )
I didn't really know changing the MT fluid so early was recommended around here. I was going to wait about 30k but now I am a little unsure. I guess I will keep on searching for info on here. : )
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