On my focus I changed it at 800 miles, and just again at 4,200 miles (on oil, 5,000 on vehicle). I was going to wait out the full oci but didn't want to have to do it in the snow and cold. (luckily finished BEFORE it snowed. But this one WILL get the full 6mo/7500mi interval.
Bought a new 2011 Versa S hatchback. Advice?
- Thread starter jigen
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I also have a new Versa and was going to do syn. Then I started reading on here and decided to do twice a year OCI's with Pennzoil conventional 5W-30. I like the idea of 2 a year vs. maybe once a year with syn. Conventionals, these days are so advanced that you don't really gain by using syn. unless you are doing extended OCI or live in a very cold climate. (pour ability factor)
I am just curious about the one reply on here with synthetics maybe being a bad choice with shorter OCI due to the detergents used in the oil. Any other comments on that?
Originally Posted By: jigen
I am just curious about the one reply on here with synthetics maybe being a bad choice with shorter OCI due to the detergents used in the oil. Any other comments on that?
It is complete nonsense. More detergents is a good thing, not a bad one.
I am just curious about the one reply on here with synthetics maybe being a bad choice with shorter OCI due to the detergents used in the oil. Any other comments on that?
It is complete nonsense. More detergents is a good thing, not a bad one.
Originally Posted By: jigen
You can get one not through the dealership?
Yup, I bought mine from a Nissan dealer in Santa Rosa, CA, that sells these policies through their website. There are several Nissan dealers that sell these policies online, but this one was the cheapest and was also somewhat local to me:
http://nissanwarrantystore.com/versa-cov...e-coverage.html
I also called in and spoke to them, and after some bargaining, they gave me an additional $85 off.
If I remember correctly, the Versa has historically been one of the least reliable Nissans (sorry to ruin your new car honeymoon) and the fuel pump issue was one of the reasons. Definitely buy the warranty before 1/12k, as after that you need to get a vehicle inspection ($115) and pay an additional upcharge.
You can get one not through the dealership?
Yup, I bought mine from a Nissan dealer in Santa Rosa, CA, that sells these policies through their website. There are several Nissan dealers that sell these policies online, but this one was the cheapest and was also somewhat local to me:
http://nissanwarrantystore.com/versa-cov...e-coverage.html
I also called in and spoke to them, and after some bargaining, they gave me an additional $85 off.
If I remember correctly, the Versa has historically been one of the least reliable Nissans (sorry to ruin your new car honeymoon) and the fuel pump issue was one of the reasons. Definitely buy the warranty before 1/12k, as after that you need to get a vehicle inspection ($115) and pay an additional upcharge.
I am in the camp that...if the car maker says first change at 5k miles, then that is what I will do.
Everyone likes to believe that metal flakes, bits, nips, castings all float around in a newly built motor causing all kinds of havoc. The filters #1 job is to catch them and keep them there so saying that I see no problem letting the oil stay. The smaller particles the filter doesn't catch do no harm and only help the rings break-in quicker.
So saying that I personally think early changes are a waste but it's not my car and you can do whatever you please.
Now sticking with the recommended OCI of almost 4k I can't say synthetic would show you any benefits that a regular oil wouldn't. I personally would use it just because I like synthetic for cold flow more than anything else since I live in a cold climate. However if cost was the ultimate concern regular PYB/Havoline/Shell/QS whatever was on sale would serve your needs perfectly.
Good luck and remember! Break it in hard! Not abusive but enough to seat those rings good and ensure good sealing.
Everyone likes to believe that metal flakes, bits, nips, castings all float around in a newly built motor causing all kinds of havoc. The filters #1 job is to catch them and keep them there so saying that I see no problem letting the oil stay. The smaller particles the filter doesn't catch do no harm and only help the rings break-in quicker.
So saying that I personally think early changes are a waste but it's not my car and you can do whatever you please.
Now sticking with the recommended OCI of almost 4k I can't say synthetic would show you any benefits that a regular oil wouldn't. I personally would use it just because I like synthetic for cold flow more than anything else since I live in a cold climate. However if cost was the ultimate concern regular PYB/Havoline/Shell/QS whatever was on sale would serve your needs perfectly.
Good luck and remember! Break it in hard! Not abusive but enough to seat those rings good and ensure good sealing.
If the normal oil change is going to be 5,000 miles, then I would do the first change at 2,500 wo filter and the second at 5,000 with new OEM filter and then do 5,000 OCIs forever.
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
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Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? he oils is NOT synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff. [/quote]
Both sides sound good. I would love to get more insight on this.
90% of my trips will be less than 10 miles. Very little hwy mileage but to be fair I live in the subburbs of Philadelphia so my city mileage is actually suburbs mileage if that makes sense.
I like synthetics but I don't like leaving oil in the car for a long time regardless of how good it is. And since the car is new, I will most likely follow Nissan's Severe interval of 3750 and never go much over 4k.
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? he oils is NOT synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff. [/quote]
Both sides sound good. I would love to get more insight on this.
90% of my trips will be less than 10 miles. Very little hwy mileage but to be fair I live in the subburbs of Philadelphia so my city mileage is actually suburbs mileage if that makes sense.
I like synthetics but I don't like leaving oil in the car for a long time regardless of how good it is. And since the car is new, I will most likely follow Nissan's Severe interval of 3750 and never go much over 4k.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
ARCO I thought this had been beaten to death already. My I've said that alot lately. It is refined enough that it CAN BE CONSIDERED synthetic. It's already been estabilshed that so called "true" synthetics don't have any real benefit over Group III stuff.
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
ARCO I thought this had been beaten to death already. My I've said that alot lately. It is refined enough that it CAN BE CONSIDERED synthetic. It's already been estabilshed that so called "true" synthetics don't have any real benefit over Group III stuff.
My advice, enjoy the new car and don't worry about it. Drive it as you always do. If you drive easy it will last a long time. If you drive hard usually go for it, it likely won't last as long irregardless of what happens initially.
Congrats!
Congrats!
"90% of my trips will be less than 10 miles. Very little hwy mileage but to be fair I live in the subburbs of Philadelphia so my city mileage is actually suburbs mileage if that makes sense."
That oil will rarely reach operating temps. It's biggest issues are going to be chemical stresses from condensation (acidic) buildup and oxidation prevention.
Syn cold flow properties may be an advantage in philly, which stays chilly 5 months out of the year, cold 2-3.
Rather than arguing "Syn!" "Dino!" "Syn!" "Dino!", find an oil with good TBN retention (start looking at the oil analysis section) and go from there.
Should be a great car. I've known 3 nissans/datsuns that were all reliable, well-built, and fun to drive.
That oil will rarely reach operating temps. It's biggest issues are going to be chemical stresses from condensation (acidic) buildup and oxidation prevention.
Syn cold flow properties may be an advantage in philly, which stays chilly 5 months out of the year, cold 2-3.
Rather than arguing "Syn!" "Dino!" "Syn!" "Dino!", find an oil with good TBN retention (start looking at the oil analysis section) and go from there.
Should be a great car. I've known 3 nissans/datsuns that were all reliable, well-built, and fun to drive.
Originally Posted By: Nick R
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
ARCO I thought this had been beaten to death already. My I've said that alot lately. It is refined enough that it CAN BE CONSIDERED synthetic. It's already been estabilshed that so called "true" synthetics don't have any real benefit over Group III stuff.
Thats a oil co stooge posistion if I ever head one! Jets would fall out of the sky with group III lubricants. Where's the -65F pour point in a group III product? More detergents will cause MORE wear if not balanced with the proper EP package and FAE. GF-4/5 is an unbalanced package. High detergency oil is a compromise. Low detergenmcy oil is a compromise. 1 year OCI are a compromise. 3 month OCI are a compromise. 20 weight oil is a compromise. One must assess the cost/benefit for your application.
Originally Posted By: ARCOgraphite
Still debating to use synthetic or conventional...
Originally Posted By: TomYoung
Absolutely go synthetic!
Uh, Why? the US oil is NOT a synthetic base and the only real benefit in moderate climates** is extending the oil change interval. The drawback is the excess detergency required for extending the OCI can cause higher wear and loss of EP protection. High detergency is NOT A GOOD THING - its a tradeoff.
** and non turbo apps
ARCO I thought this had been beaten to death already. My I've said that alot lately. It is refined enough that it CAN BE CONSIDERED synthetic. It's already been estabilshed that so called "true" synthetics don't have any real benefit over Group III stuff.
Thats a oil co stooge posistion if I ever head one! Jets would fall out of the sky with group III lubricants. Where's the -65F pour point in a group III product? More detergents will cause MORE wear if not balanced with the proper EP package and FAE. GF-4/5 is an unbalanced package. High detergency oil is a compromise. Low detergenmcy oil is a compromise. 1 year OCI are a compromise. 3 month OCI are a compromise. 20 weight oil is a compromise. One must assess the cost/benefit for your application.
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I think a happy medium for me will be Motorcraft 5w-30 synth blend since I can grab the jugs at a good price. But is that 5w-30 too thick for a car like this?
Good point. You really can't go wrong following the owners manual.
DO NOT under any circumstances assume that the service manager or any dealer personnel are the same thing. They all speak with forked/misinformed tongues!
DO NOT under any circumstances assume that the service manager or any dealer personnel are the same thing. They all speak with forked/misinformed tongues!
I would never not follow the oil recommended in the manual. I just heard MC 5w-30 is thick for a 30w, and wondered if I should maybe go for a thinner 30w oil.
Car is brand new and has a 1.8L MR18DE engine. I live in the Philadelphia area so I do get 4-5 cold months throughout the year. I want to follow the manual's suggested 3750 OCI but I also originally planned on going synthetic with this car. Seems to be a bit overkill depending on the oil.
I was considering Motorcraft 5w-30 syn blend. How would this work for an engine like this? I have used to PP in the past and liked it a lot, I am just not 100% sure if I could save some money using the MC.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I was considering Motorcraft 5w-30 syn blend. How would this work for an engine like this? I have used to PP in the past and liked it a lot, I am just not 100% sure if I could save some money using the MC.
Any suggestions would be appreciated!
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