Boogered the threads on a wheel stud...

[Klutch9]

Today I replaced the pads and rotors on all 4 corners on the Sedona. In the process of hammering off the front-driver's side rotor, with the might of Thor, I must have nicked one of the studs. I noticed when putting the wheel back on that the nut would spin a couple of times by hand, then the resistance made it to difficult to spin. Tried another nut, same thing. It seems that only 2 or 3 threads towards the end of the stud are affected. I was able to get the nut to thread on with a wrench without too much effort, and the nut seated fully just fine. Should I be worried about this? I'll just be sure to keep that nut with that stud. When using a torque wrench to bring all the nuts home, the nut on the messy threads felt the same as the rest at that point, FWIW

 

[Eddie]

Sounds like you will have zero issues.

 

[Merkava_4]

You should have chased the stud with a die before forcing the nut over it.

 

[Charlie1935]

Now you have a nut specially for that stud.

 

[andyd]

If it is near the top, I use a file to knock down the threads.

 

[UncleDave]

Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You should have chased the stud with a die before forcing the nut over it.


Ideally yup - just to clean it up.

Will you have problem - only everytime you have to remove this nut until you fix it.


UD

 

[Chris142]

Thread file

 

[Trav]

Get one of these for next time, just give the damaged threads a quick once over with the correct pitch on the file and its good to go.
This is not a replacement for a die but it works on any size even the large ones where a die can cost a fortune.

This is a metric one but they sell a 4 piece set that will cover almost any thread your likely to encounter.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Thread-...rds=thread+file

I see Chis 142 replied at the same time.

 

[Klutch9]

I may take the wheel off again tomorrow and chase the threads on the stud and the corresponding lug nut. I would've normally done it properly, but I had to get it reassembled and get on the road. I assume a tap set will bring these threads back to life?

 

[Corndog]

I wouldn't sweat it. They only use four lugs on Nascar Sprint cup cars during certain races [think Nascar is mandating they use all five now] and drive hard at 200 mph with no problems [so safety isn't an issue]. If it was so tight going on you had to really crank down to get it on then yeah, replace/repair it, but the way you described it sounds like nothing. Anti-seize wouldn't hurt.

 

[JimPghPA]

Chase the threads and get new lug nuts for all the nuts you tried on that boogered stud.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9
In the process of hammering off the front-driver's side rotor, with the might of Thor

You must have missed my very-recent thread on exactly this matter:
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/4144099/1/Removing_rusted,_very_stuck_br

 

[BHopkins]

Originally Posted By: Trav
Get one of these for next time, just give the damaged threads a quick once over with the correct pitch on the file and its good to go.
This is not a replacement for a die but it works on any size even the large ones where a die can cost a fortune.

This is a metric one but they sell a 4 piece set that will cover almost any thread your likely to encounter.

https://www.amazon.com/Nicholson-Thread-...rds=thread+file

I see Chis 142 replied at the same time.


Get one of these ^^^^^. Clean up the treads on the stud. Be patient. It may take a few minutes to clean up the stud good enough so the nut easily goes on by hand. Then, as mentioned above, replace any nut that you forced over the damaged area of the stud. In many situations, stud thread damage being one of them, I find a thread chaser file like this one, to be a much better choice than a die. First and foremost, how are you going to clear the adjacent studs with a die wrench handle? Second, even if you decide to forego the die wrench and turn the die with a vice grip or channel lock (really a suckie way of doing it), if the damaged area is too close to the end of the stud, it can be very hard to be sure you get the die started right, and you don't end up cutting new threads and ruin the stud.

Don't ignore the damage and think all is well since you got the nut on. There is a good chance that the nut will not come off with ease now. And, with Murphy riding co-pilot, it will be the most inconvenient time when you can't get the nut off. Do it now while it is at your convenience. An ounce of prevention . . .

 

[Eddie]

While I agree that a thread chaser would be good, he said the lug nut was on the stud and locked down without much effort. I think that is good enough. Since we are going "over the top" on recommendations I will add mine. A perfect solution would be to remove the old stud and replace with a new stud and nut. That way there is no filing, and no chasing of the threads. ) Ed

 

[Vikas]

Is there a video on showing how to use that thread file?

 

[Klutch9]

Well I decided to get me a cheapo Harbor Freight tap and die set and have at it

I've wanted one for awhile... now I had an excuse to buy one. The nut did come of a bit stubborn, but it did come off. Threads on the stud and nut didn't look bad really. I re-tapped the nut and ran the die along the stud, and they both look good as new. Actually, the "repaired" nut goes on more smoothly than the other nuts now. All is well.

Just a minor gripe, however. I wish the die body was in a hex shape so I could fit a socket over it. As stated in an earlier post, it's impossible to use the die handle when other studs are directly adjacent. Thankfully I was able to get it started by hand (I was only chasing threads after all) and used some channel lock pliers to turn the die. When I was finished I made sure the die ran the full length of the stud by hand.

 

[The_Jeff]

FWIW dies aren't made for your convenience, necessarily. They want you to use the handle to push-and-pull simultaneously so the die stays centered. If they put a hex on it you'd yank on it with a socket wrench and it would "wobble" going down, egging out the stud geometrically.

The ideal tool would have been some sort of extension then that blasted t-handle.

It was better to fix this stud BTW than to bang it out and fish a new one in since that can be hard on the wheel bearings.

 

[Klutch9]

Originally Posted By: eljefino
It was better to fix this stud BTW than to bang it out and fish a new one in since that can be hard on the wheel bearings.


I thought so, too. Although me banging off the rotors didn't do them any favors either

 

[BHopkins]

Originally Posted By: Klutch9
Well I decided to get me a cheapo Harbor Freight tap and die set and have at it

I've wanted one for awhile... now I had an excuse to buy one. The nut did come of a bit stubborn, but it did come off. Threads on the stud and nut didn't look bad really. I re-tapped the nut and ran the die along the stud, and they both look good as new. Actually, the "repaired" nut goes on more smoothly than the other nuts now. All is well.

Just a minor gripe, however. I wish the die body was in a hex shape so I could fit a socket over it. As stated in an earlier post, it's impossible to use the die handle when other studs are directly adjacent. Thankfully I was able to get it started by hand (I was only chasing threads after all) and used some channel lock pliers to turn the die. When I was finished I made sure the die ran the full length of the stud by hand.


Good decision. You will be better off in yeaars to come, for doing this now. I guarantee it!

 

[threeputtpar]

Advice from a fellow Midwesterner - use the die on the other 19 studs of the vehicle now and changing tires will become quite easy! I had the same exact situation and after I fixed the damaged stud I stared at the other 4 on that wheel for a second and had a "while you're in there" moment.