I feel what you're saying regarding spray bombs is correct. I haven't found anything in a spray bomb to do as good a job as bulk products being applied by conventional spray, airless spraying, or sprayed with an HVLP sprayer. Spray bombs are better than nothing, but spraying by the methods I mentioned IMO work best. I use a combo of a rustproofing gun with wands to get into all the hard to reach areas, and then coat the undercarriage with my airless sprayer. The coverage with the airless sprayer is amazing, fast, and longer lasting.As with any of these products the cans are Not the same as the product that you get in bulk that is to be used with a spray gun/compressor. The can is lighter, cut with something so it can spray out of that can, and because of that it is a lighter product. And therefore - in my experience - just doesn’t cover or last as long.
Watching that video I’m surprised that the thinner Blaster in bulk sticks and stays longer than the other products, so maybe, just maybe...the can version of blaster works well. But I’m not sure about that. And the video doesn’t show the AFTER effects of the can sprayed product...plus, isn’t that video a payed advertisement of Blaster? When I started watching it the words paid product came up on my screen...not sure if that means he payed for it, or they payed for it. Not sure that matters either but I would think if they payed for it, there’s a little bias going on? Maybe?
I would look at products from NH Coatings. One of the rust prev products is a brush on think version of the product you normally spray on. So for my pickup they brushed on in areas likely to get road wash and sprayed the rest.I did my B2600 a few weeks ago with it after seeing his video. Hopefully it holds up better in the high wash areas than fluid film.
I figured that. It is just sometime in the winter around here in Louisville they lay more salt down then the snow we get and also do the pre treat before a storm. I like to get the underside washed just to get some of the salt off... I wish the old rubberized undercoating was still the way to go but there is to much info now showing that it is not good to use...I agree with the concept of aerosol products don't seem to be as good as bulk products. But, it seems that once the aromatics evaporate from the aerosol version, shouldn't it be very similar to the bulk product?
And another opinion about the idea that "thicker is better" regarding staying power in high wash areas. Krown "claims" an opposite idea. They claim that even though their product might appear to be gone in high wash areas, they state that there is still a microscopic barrier doing its job. Just an opinion. I know Trav and others have their favorites. It certainly is a challenge to have a product that can adhere and resist washoff (i.e., gease-like) and still have oil content that creeps, stops rust, and does not trap salt brine underneath it.
Edit: I cannot imagine that high pressure undercarriage washes are good for any product.
This is bologna.I fight rust as an obsession.
I looked into Blaster Surface Shield and some of the things were concerning.
*Below: From Blaster Surface Shield SDS sheet-
- Blaster pays hucksters and influencers to hype their product. If you look at the Youtube videos closely you will see very small letters that say "paid promotion" in the corner.
- It's been out for a very short time and they say "provides protection for up to 2 years" How do they know that? And what does "up to" mean? 6 months?
- I read on a Ford forum that a guy had his vehicle treated with Blaster Surface Shield and the vehicle caught fire a few days later. He said the insurance adjuster was implying that is was from the newly applied coating Blaster Surface Shield. The flash point on Blaster Surface Shield is about 90 degrees lower than Fluid Film or Woolwax.
Conditions to Avoid: Heat, spark, and open flame
Signal word Danger Hazard statement: May be fatal if swallowed and enters airways
Bottom Line: Nope. not for me.