Big Block Chevy

Pennzoil motor oil
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Taildragger

Taildragger

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Oct 17, 2010
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Okay guys, going to 'liven up' the bone stock 454 in my '73 Corvette. Planning to cut the heads and use appropriate head gaskets to bring the compression up from 8.5/1 to 9.5/1. Also have a new cam and lifters on the way. Nothing too rowdy but pretty lumpy for a street cam. Hydraulic flat tappet.
My question is; What will be a good break in oil for the new cam and lifters? Should I use an additive? What to use after that? The bottom end seems healthy with great oil pressure.
 
Make sure there is enough compression for the cam and no special oil is needed. New cam drive set? double roller? Degree the cam just because? Use the cam break in grease
 
I've had excellent luck with cam break in on the last 3 flat tappet big block Chevys I've built with plain old Walmart Super Tech 15w40. Cheap enough you don't mind dumping it after cam break in, lots of Zinc for cam break in. PQIA just tested it this month, zinc is right there on par with the Delvac Delo and Shell oils.
 
I love Competition Cams mutha thumpr cams. They are flat tappet and hydraulic for an easy installation with no maintenance. The idle from the engine with a wicked exhaust setup will wake the dead. Just don't use this cam with an automatic transmission on the street as drivability issues will arise.
 
+1 on the Supertech 15-40. Don't know what your HP goals are, but as a guy who has fooled with a bunch of big blocks, I can tell you that a roller cam and aftermarket aluminum heads will net you 70-100 HP over what you are proposing.
 
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
Gotta keep the heads,, numbers match. Didn't really want to go into the bottem end.
bag them and store them.cutting them that much ruins there value plus you must then cut the intake so it won't fit on anything else
 
Personally, I don't see a problem with shaving a little off the heads, but... If you go with aluminum heads you can raise the compression even more!

I would use VR1; although I have Joe Gibbs break in oil in mine. oh wait, I'm using rollers so it really doesn't matter!
 
are there even "numbers" on BBC heads? My Ford did not have them. I know...... Fords.... actually, it was a major research project to find the VIN on my block
 
Originally Posted By: tomcat27
are there even "numbers" on BBC heads? My Ford did not have them. I know...... Fords.... actually, it was a major research project to find the VIN on my block
yes casting numbers and date codes that are important to people that want a certain car with a certain engine
 
Originally Posted By: Chris142
Originally Posted By: Taildragger
Gotta keep the heads,, numbers match. Didn't really want to go into the bottom end.
bag them and store them.cutting them that much ruins there value plus you must then cut the intake so it won't fit on anything else


This. If you want more compression, you need new pistons, new cylinder heads, or both. Cutting the cylinder heads can throw off the intake geometry and gasket sealing surfaces.

I'd bag up the old heads, and put aftermarket heads on it myself. If you ever need to sell it, put your oil heads back on, sell the aftermarket heads. You will recoup a large portion of the price on the aftermarket heads, so the cost isn't outrageous when you look at it like that. Example - you buy aftermarket heads for $1500. When you sell the car, you sell the heads for $1000. You are only out $500, and you didn't damage the stock heads. Subtract the cost of the head work that you plan to do with the stock heads, and you about break even using aftermarket heads vs stock heads. Its a no brainer in my opinion - use aftermarket heads.
 
I'd take those original heads unless they are 049's which you can still find reasonable and put them away and go aftermarket too. But since that isn't what you are asking, lol, any of the 15w40's work fine. I also tend to use Valvoline Straight 30w because the break in grease that comes with the cam is more then enough.
 
15w-40 with the grease included with the cam is the minimum I would use. A dedicated break-in oil would be a good investment. Also make sure that you spend a lot of time prepping the engine to fire successfully on the first attempt. Fill the bowls on the carb, make sure the timing is close, etc. That will allow you to start the engine quickly and run it right up to the recommended 2000-3000 rpm for the next 20 minutes or so.

Does the car still have the stock exhaust and intake manifolds? If so, and you want to keep it that way, make sure the camshaft company knows that. Installing a rowdy cam in an otherwise stock engine will just make for a poor driving car.
 
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