Better fuel mileage with synthetic?

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Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
As of last year, the only Mobil 1 formulations that DID NOT contain any percentage of group III base stocks were....

Mobil 1 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-50, and 15W-50


Are you absolutely sure? Does the word VISOM mean anything?
 
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch
Originally Posted By: icruse
Originally Posted By: Jeff_in_VABch


...just wondering then why did Joe Gibbs racing team come up with their own oil for their racing engines?

Good Day,
Steven


Racing oils are pretty specialized and the teams actually have the money to test them on the engine dyno in real time. I would bet they have changed oil (racing engines are dry sump)with engines under constant load in real time to measure actual changes in power produced. That is in addition to tuning the oil pump output to the desired flow and pressure for the viscosity of oil specified by the builder.

A dry sump racing engine runs oil temperatures much higher than street engines. The oil capacity is also much higher.

The use of low tension oil rings and crankcase vacuum evacuation systems allows very low rotational friction (additional 50 HP) with full oil control even if using low viscosity oils.

Racing oils have few to no detergents to reduce detonation. This also reportedly increases lubricity. Racing oil has up to 3,000 ppm of zinc & phosphorus, more than a non-race oil.

Todays racing engines are more high tech than ever and the teams have the money to sit around and experiment in a controlled manner with oil or anything else thay want. It only makes sense they would use an oil that tested well on the dyno for the specific engine.


Also, cam wear additives are much higher.
 
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You guys that have switched from conventional to synthetic, has your fuel mileage improved at all?


Yes, definitely. Have a 2008 Nissan Sentra SER which has the same 4 cylinder 2.5 liter DOHC that is put into the Nissan Altima 2.5S. EPA is for 24 city and 30 highway. We were close to those numbers for the first few months until I changed out the factory fill and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance with a Mobil 1-110 filter and a 300 ml can of LubroMoly. The gas mileage increased to 26-27 city and 32-33 highway and has gone higher since then as the motor and car "loosens up". Currently, we get 28 mpg city and typically 34 highway but on longer trips of 50 miles or more, we've gotten a whopping 36+ mpg. The car has its own on board computer that calculates gas mileage and predicts how far you can drive until the next refuel. Highly recommend...great tool.

We are extremely pleased with this car which has a CVT transmission that Nissan warrants for 120,000 miles. There are no shift points because the transmission computer will optimally and seamlessly select between 62 different ratios. The car has paddle shifters and I have used them from time to time but you have to be a cyborg driver to best the overall shifting the CVT makes for itself. The engine hits maximum torque at just 2800 rpm so it takes very little throttle (electric, as well as the power steering) to make the car move out fast. There is absolutely no "shift" we can feel, unless I use the paddle shifters which reduces the shifting to just 6 ratios!
shocked.gif


Current mileage for the existing tank, about 8/12ths used (LCD fuel tank indicates in 1/12th increments...nice) is 28.2 mpg. We live in Worcester MA. There are a ton of lights, lots of traffic and steep hills everywhere. We live at 1000 ft elevation, BTW, on a very steep hill. We can see Boston's skyline (40 miles away) from our yard.

Car now has 35,000 miles and is currently at 14,000 miles of a 15,000 mile Mobil Extended Performance fill and its running and economizing better than ever. There is no question that the Mobil 1 and LubroMoly have both had a hand in the ease of starting and the fuel mileage.

Also helping is the change in late 2010 to Continental Extreme Contact DWS 225X45X17 radials. They have 2-ply polyester sidewalls and a real, perpendicular true radial construction, along with 2-polymide(kevlar) and 2-nylon belts on the tread. I keep them at their 51 psi maximum and the true radial construction soaks up the bumps while handling is to die for and rolling resistance is as low as it can go. Great tires for wet and snow. Last winter had record snowfall here and we always made it to where we were going without a problem.

The improvements in fuel mileage may be subtle, but it was 10% initially and now exceeds EPA by 16% city and 20% highway.

Dino? Oh, you mean oil heat, right?


Definitely? Definitely NOT!
Break in accounts for a good increase in gas mileage, and so does the Lubro Moly.
Why artificially attribute any increase to synthetic oil??
 
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
As of last year, the only Mobil 1 formulations that DID NOT contain any percentage of group III base stocks were....

Mobil 1 0W-30, 0W-40, 5W-40, 5W-50, and 15W-50


Are you absolutely sure? Does the word VISOM mean anything?


You mean this propaganda that is easily translated into....

"Katrina was an excellent excuse for us to reformulate to group III and III+ base stocks while charging you more."

Quote:
A natural evolution of the formulation

The Mobil 1 formulation strategy has always been based on selecting the best components available. We now have the very high quality Group III+ base stock, ‘Visom’ exclusively available to ExxonMobil. As we developed the Mobil 1 ESP technology we found that combining Visom with PAO could deliver a formulation of equivalent performance to an all PAO formulation.

Competitive advantage

Visom is the only non-PAO stock that can deliver the required performance to formulate a 0W grade oil that meets European OEM engine oil specifications. Visom is not available to our competition.

To support Mobil 1 growth

Global PAO capacity is limited. As we quickly approach this limit, new base stocks must be explored to ensure we can support the continued growth of the Mobil 1 family of products.

To ensure continuity of supply

As we saw with the 2005 hurricane, the more flexibility we have in our formulations, the better placed we are to withstand disruption to our supply. We can balance PAO and Visom supply fluctuations to ensure we can always deliver the final product to our customers.

To maintain market relevant pricing

As PAO supply has tightened globally, raw material costs have increased substantially. In the future, an exclusively PAO formulation may be priced out of the market or result in significant margin erosion.

To prepare for next generation basestocks (GTL)

Commencing 2010, the next generation of base stocks derived from Natural Gas (Gas To Liquids) will enter the market. These high quality basestocks will arrive in substantial quantities and will probably be used in the majority of competitive premium formulations. Visom is viewed as a precursor of GTL, and hence it’s use now in our flagship formulations eases our transition to a GTL world, and helps us understand how to maintain flagship performance using these high quality non-PAO basestocks.


Yes, I am very aware of it. As of a little over a year ago, the information was told to me from the inside what you have quoted from me above. No "VISOM" in those formulations. That could have changed within the past year.
 
Originally Posted By: Unleashedbeast
No "VISOM" in those formulations. That could have changed within the past year.

And it has changed. That's why M1 0w-40 is no longer called "Fully Synthetic" in Germany.

So, should we now expect increased fuel consumption from M1 0w-40, just because it is no longer a true synthetic?
21.gif
 
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You guys that have switched from conventional to synthetic, has your fuel mileage improved at all?


Yes, definitely. Have a 2008 Nissan Sentra SER which has the same 4 cylinder 2.5 liter DOHC that is put into the Nissan Altima 2.5S. EPA is for 24 city and 30 highway. We were close to those numbers for the first few months until I changed out the factory fill and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance with a Mobil 1-110 filter and a 300 ml can of LubroMoly. The gas mileage increased to 26-27 city and 32-33 highway and has gone higher since then as the motor and car "loosens up". Currently, we get 28 mpg city and typically 34 highway but on longer trips of 50 miles or more, we've gotten a whopping 36+ mpg. The car has its own on board computer that calculates gas mileage and predicts how far you can drive until the next refuel. Highly recommend...great tool.

We are extremely pleased with this car which has a CVT transmission that Nissan warrants for 120,000 miles. There are no shift points because the transmission computer will optimally and seamlessly select between 62 different ratios. The car has paddle shifters and I have used them from time to time but you have to be a cyborg driver to best the overall shifting the CVT makes for itself. The engine hits maximum torque at just 2800 rpm so it takes very little throttle (electric, as well as the power steering) to make the car move out fast. There is absolutely no "shift" we can feel, unless I use the paddle shifters which reduces the shifting to just 6 ratios!
shocked.gif


Current mileage for the existing tank, about 8/12ths used (LCD fuel tank indicates in 1/12th increments...nice) is 28.2 mpg. We live in Worcester MA. There are a ton of lights, lots of traffic and steep hills everywhere. We live at 1000 ft elevation, BTW, on a very steep hill. We can see Boston's skyline (40 miles away) from our yard.

Car now has 35,000 miles and is currently at 14,000 miles of a 15,000 mile Mobil Extended Performance fill and its running and economizing better than ever. There is no question that the Mobil 1 and LubroMoly have both had a hand in the ease of starting and the fuel mileage.

Also helping is the change in late 2010 to Continental Extreme Contact DWS 225X45X17 radials. They have 2-ply polyester sidewalls and a real, perpendicular true radial construction, along with 2-polymide(kevlar) and 2-nylon belts on the tread. I keep them at their 51 psi maximum and the true radial construction soaks up the bumps while handling is to die for and rolling resistance is as low as it can go. Great tires for wet and snow. Last winter had record snowfall here and we always made it to where we were going without a problem.

The improvements in fuel mileage may be subtle, but it was 10% initially and now exceeds EPA by 16% city and 20% highway.

Dino? Oh, you mean oil heat, right?


Definitely? Definitely NOT!
Break in accounts for a good increase in gas mileage, and so does the Lubro Moly.
Why artificially attribute any increase to synthetic oil??


Break in assumes there is wear. The Mobil 1 EP and LubroMoly in addition to MMO in the fuel have taken wear pretty much out of the picture. I'm not new to this and have been driving for 48 years. I've commuted distances with various cars, always do my own changes and select the products myself. The cars' computer told the story right from the initial change and as the cars engine got "polished" (not worn), the mileage has improved very slowly and gradually.

As far as 51 PSI is concerned, sure you can save some gas with high air pressure but you can't just randomly up the pressure on any tire. Most of the radials sold today are NOT true radials. The sidewall belts are at a "bias" or angle so the tire is not as compliant on the road and if you pump them up that high (IF they can take it), they'll ride like they were made out of granite and you'll chip your teeth!

If you want to save fuel for real, I suggest using a PAO based synthetic, preferably with an ester in it. (You have to read the Material Data Sheets) Be careful on the selection of tires. You want to get a true radial not a bias-radial and you want a tire with very high PSI capability. Nice to choose a low rolling resistance tire if you can but the characteristic I needed was excellence in snow and ice and the Conti DWS was THE TIRE to get. Put MMO is the fuel tank periodically to remove all traces of carbon from the rings, cylinder heads and valves. Try different brands of gasoline. Some brands will run better in your car then others. We found Shell and Gulf to work best in the Sentra SER. I also recommend putting a can of LubrMoly in with the oil change. Ester and Moly are the KEY to low wear and high fuel efficiency, while using a PAO based oil.

With over 14,000 miles on the current oil and only having to top off with 1 quart total in 14,000 miles, you cannot assume that there has been a great "break-in" and "loosening up" in this engine. At 36,000 miles, its drives as tight as when it was new.

My son has a 2002 Audi S8 with 147,000 miles. He runs a mix of lubricants I recommended and put in his car: 2 qts of 0W-40 M1 Euro, 2 qts of 15W-50 M1 EP and 4 qts of Shell Rotella T 5W-40 with a 300ml can of LubroMoly. It has an 8 quart sump. After 7,000 miles on the current oil, he has had to top off his 4.2L V8 with just 1/2 qt of oil. This is a 360HP motor with 147,000 miles and he gets fuel mileage in excess of the EPA ratings too.

Yes, I think the combinations of products, and maintaining tire pressures religiously, and getting a four wheel alignment done by a competent shop all contribute to better fuel mileage. In addition to the fuel mileage, the quality oils are also contributing to a lack of wear in the motors. Nice!

Even nicer: because we not doing oil changes constantly, we can take better care of other aspects of the cars. My son's 2002 Audi S8 looks like it just drove out of the showroom. It is a joy to change oil once every year to a year and a half and always in the warm weather.

Once upon a time, knives were made out of carbon steel and they rusted constantly. Then they came up with stainless: no more carbon steel knives!

Once upon a time, we used to lubricate our cars with heating oil. Then they came up with PAO, Ester and Hydrocracking. No more heating oil with detergents in our cars!

The problem with Dino is that it breaks down too readily and it can't be lubricating as well if it is frying inside the motor on hot parts, allowing severe wear in certain areas such as valve train and camshaft. Another issue with Dino is that it contains paraffin which is the primary contributor to the problems with sludge that interferes with the distribution of lubricant. Therein lies the answer as to why synthetics contribute to fuel efficiency where Dino cannot. Sorry, but Dino is grossly inferior as a lubricant where there is high heat, and it begins to breakdown the day it is put into an engine so we rush to remove and replace it. Since synthetics do not behave this way, they therefore contribute to economy!
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: steve20
don't forget the FIFTY ONE pound tire pressure




Yeah I know right? Some guys over on the Lexus forum run ridiculous tire pressure`s.
 
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Originally Posted By: mechtech2
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
Originally Posted By: Merkava_4
You guys that have switched from conventional to synthetic, has your fuel mileage improved at all?


Yes, definitely. Have a 2008 Nissan Sentra SER which has the same 4 cylinder 2.5 liter DOHC that is put into the Nissan Altima 2.5S. EPA is for 24 city and 30 highway. We were close to those numbers for the first few months until I changed out the factory fill and replaced with Mobil 1 5W-30 Extended Performance with a Mobil 1-110 filter and a 300 ml can of LubroMoly. The gas mileage increased to 26-27 city and 32-33 highway and has gone higher since then as the motor and car "loosens up". Currently, we get 28 mpg city and typically 34 highway but on longer trips of 50 miles or more, we've gotten a whopping 36+ mpg. The car has its own on board computer that calculates gas mileage and predicts how far you can drive until the next refuel. Highly recommend...great tool.

We are extremely pleased with this car which has a CVT transmission that Nissan warrants for 120,000 miles. There are no shift points because the transmission computer will optimally and seamlessly select between 62 different ratios. The car has paddle shifters and I have used them from time to time but you have to be a cyborg driver to best the overall shifting the CVT makes for itself. The engine hits maximum torque at just 2800 rpm so it takes very little throttle (electric, as well as the power steering) to make the car move out fast. There is absolutely no "shift" we can feel, unless I use the paddle shifters which reduces the shifting to just 6 ratios!
shocked.gif


Current mileage for the existing tank, about 8/12ths used (LCD fuel tank indicates in 1/12th increments...nice) is 28.2 mpg. We live in Worcester MA. There are a ton of lights, lots of traffic and steep hills everywhere. We live at 1000 ft elevation, BTW, on a very steep hill. We can see Boston's skyline (40 miles away) from our yard.

Car now has 35,000 miles and is currently at 14,000 miles of a 15,000 mile Mobil Extended Performance fill and its running and economizing better than ever. There is no question that the Mobil 1 and LubroMoly have both had a hand in the ease of starting and the fuel mileage.

Also helping is the change in late 2010 to Continental Extreme Contact DWS 225X45X17 radials. They have 2-ply polyester sidewalls and a real, perpendicular true radial construction, along with 2-polymide(kevlar) and 2-nylon belts on the tread. I keep them at their 51 psi maximum and the true radial construction soaks up the bumps while handling is to die for and rolling resistance is as low as it can go. Great tires for wet and snow. Last winter had record snowfall here and we always made it to where we were going without a problem.

The improvements in fuel mileage may be subtle, but it was 10% initially and now exceeds EPA by 16% city and 20% highway.

Dino? Oh, you mean oil heat, right?


Definitely? Definitely NOT!
Break in accounts for a good increase in gas mileage, and so does the Lubro Moly.
Why artificially attribute any increase to synthetic oil??


Break in assumes there is wear. The Mobil 1 EP and LubroMoly in addition to MMO in the fuel have taken wear pretty much out of the picture. I'm not new to this and have been driving for 48 years. I've commuted distances with various cars, always do my own changes and select the products myself. The cars' computer told the story right from the initial change and as the cars engine got "polished" (not worn), the mileage has improved very slowly and gradually.

As far as 51 PSI is concerned, sure you can save some gas with high air pressure but you can't just randomly up the pressure on any tire. Most of the radials sold today are NOT true radials. The sidewall belts are at a "bias" or angle so the tire is not as compliant on the road and if you pump them up that high (IF they can take it), they'll ride like they were made out of granite and you'll chip your teeth!

If you want to save fuel for real, I suggest using a PAO based synthetic, preferably with an ester in it. (You have to read the Material Data Sheets) Be careful on the selection of tires. You want to get a true radial not a bias-radial and you want a tire with very high PSI capability. Nice to choose a low rolling resistance tire if you can but the characteristic I needed was excellence in snow and ice and the Conti DWS was THE TIRE to get. Put MMO is the fuel tank periodically to remove all traces of carbon from the rings, cylinder heads and valves. Try different brands of gasoline. Some brands will run better in your car then others. We found Shell and Gulf to work best in the Sentra SER. I also recommend putting a can of LubrMoly in with the oil change. Ester and Moly are the KEY to low wear and high fuel efficiency, while using a PAO based oil.

With over 14,000 miles on the current oil and only having to top off with 1 quart total in 14,000 miles, you cannot assume that there has been a great "break-in" and "loosening up" in this engine. At 36,000 miles, its drives as tight as when it was new.

My son has a 2002 Audi S8 with 147,000 miles. He runs a mix of lubricants I recommended and put in his car: 2 qts of 0W-40 M1 Euro, 2 qts of 15W-50 M1 EP and 4 qts of Shell Rotella T 5W-40 with a 300ml can of LubroMoly. It has an 8 quart sump. After 7,000 miles on the current oil, he has had to top off his 4.2L V8 with just 1/2 qt of oil. This is a 360HP motor with 147,000 miles and he gets fuel mileage in excess of the EPA ratings too.

Yes, I think the combinations of products, and maintaining tire pressures religiously, and getting a four wheel alignment done by a competent shop all contribute to better fuel mileage. In addition to the fuel mileage, the quality oils are also contributing to a lack of wear in the motors. Nice!

Even nicer: because we not doing oil changes constantly, we can take better care of other aspects of the cars. My son's 2002 Audi S8 looks like it just drove out of the showroom. It is a joy to change oil once every year to a year and a half and always in the warm weather.

Once upon a time, knives were made out of carbon steel and they rusted constantly. Then they came up with stainless: no more carbon steel knives!

Once upon a time, we used to lubricate our cars with heating oil. Then they came up with PAO, Ester and Hydrocracking. No more heating oil with detergents in our cars!

The problem with Dino is that it breaks down too readily and it can't be lubricating as well if it is frying inside the motor on hot parts, allowing severe wear in certain areas such as valve train and camshaft. Another issue with Dino is that it contains paraffin which is the primary contributor to the problems with sludge that interferes with the distribution of lubricant. Therein lies the answer as to why synthetics contribute to fuel efficiency where Dino cannot. Sorry, but Dino is grossly inferior as a lubricant where there is high heat, and it begins to breakdown the day it is put into an engine so we rush to remove and replace it. Since synthetics do not behave this way, they therefore contribute to economy!







So what your saying is; do not use Conventional oil?
 
because of its nature, snythetics is going to be slipperier(molecules uniform)less frictionand far more stable then conventional oil therefore better milege less heat,no breakdown much better protection.i would never, ever use any conventional oil where synthetics is so far superior, and to go further, use an ester oil...
 
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Yeah I know right? Some guys over on the Lexus forum run ridiculous tire pressure`s.


I don't know how they could stand it. On my old Audi, two pressures were given on the placard, depending on loading. The high loading pressure was ridiculously stiff driving, and the lower, normal pressures (only about four pounds less) was noticeably more compliant.
 
The problem with Dino is that it breaks down too readily and it can't be lubricating as well if it is frying inside the motor on hot parts, allowing severe wear in certain areas such as valve train and camshaft. Another issue with Dino is that it contains paraffin which is the primary contributor to the problems with sludge that interferes with the distribution of lubricant. Therein lies the answer as to why synthetics contribute to fuel efficiency where Dino cannot. Sorry, but Dino is grossly inferior as a lubricant where there is high heat, and it begins to breakdown the day it is put into an engine so we rush to remove and replace it. Since synthetics do not behave this way, they therefore contribute to economy![/color]

[/quote]




So what your saying is; do not use Conventional oil?[/quote]

Basically, I am what people call a cheapskate. I wouldn't spend extra money on more expensive oil without very good reason. I wish I could say that "Dino" is inexpensive and its the way to go. It is for some cars and trucks. Particularly for older vehicles with cooler 180F thermostats that pull heat out of the motor faster so the "heat soak" doesn't cook the area where the camshafts and valves are.

Engines have changed a lot. Modern DOHC engines with large bores, shorter strokes, higher rpm, near 10:1 compression running on regular gas with combustion chambers specially designed to resist pre-ignition and valves that have liquid metal inside to conduct heat away from the combustion chamber are not well cooled at the top where the DOHC are. In fact, engineers have been using the area to help draw heat away from the top of the combustion chamber in order to prevent pre-ignition and detonation and to increase motor life. Add to this a 205F thermostat that is computer controlled and will actually allow the water jacket to get even hotter if emission sensors report conditions that more heat would be optimal for cleaner combustion.

Dino cannot take the 375F to 450F temperatures that exist in the top end of these motors. In fact, the high temperature thermostats have actually caused overheating issues in the camshaft tunnel of legacy design American OHV V-8's and certain taxicab companies have had to go to oil coolers and 7-8 quart sumps to keep the oil from boiling in the tunnel.

I love American V-8's. One of the best designs ever created. But the emissions requirements are "heat soaking" a lot of cast iron until the temperatures boil regular motor oil. Unless you can run a lower thermostat and use 70-72% antifreeze for optimal cooling with an oil cooler and a larger oil sump, Dino is going to fry and breakdown on every drive you take.

So, for stop and go city driving...No Dino. Climbing long steep grades with every seat taken or a load on board...No Dino. Temperatures in the 90's and above every day...No Dino. Towing a trailer...No Dino. Racing...No Dino. High speed like out in the plains states or Texas where 90-95mph is allowed...No Dino.

You can use it, but you better take it out real quick because it is not capable for the application.

On the other hand, the synthetics have shown themselves to be capable under high load and high heat condition for 7500, 10000 and even 15,000 miles. For M1 EP, that is the equivalent of 3 oil changes with $3/qt Dino. Less labor, better protection, less wear and tear on the motor. What's the downside?

From what I see on this forum, there's a lot of people using synthetics that remain uncomfortable with the long oil change intervals. Well, the aforementioned Sentra SER went 17,700 miles on the previous oil change and for the current 14,000 miles the gas mileage has continued to improve and the top off requirement has not changed from before: around 12 ounces every six months.

My current cache of Synthetics is down to 28 quarts but I delivered 14 quarts yesterday and we'll be changing out two cars, a snowthrower and a lawnmower over the Thanksgiving weekend. I'll restock big time when I see a great sale.

I have Mobil 1 in my lawnmower and pressure washer. Works great and I was able to add a second 22" blade to the lawnmower: yup, that's two blades at same time. Ought to see it mulch the leaves now. I'll never rake again. Thanks to Mobil 1 for the extra power, however it does use a little more gas now.
smile.gif
 
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
and use 70-72% antifreeze for optimal cooling


I hope you mean water not antifreeze, as a higher ratio of antifreeze to water will lead to worse cooling performance.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2

From what I see on this forum, there's a lot of people using synthetics that remain uncomfortable with the long oil change intervals. Well, the aforementioned Sentra SER went 17,700 miles on the previous oil change and for the current 14,000 miles the gas mileage has continued to improve and the top off requirement has not changed from before: around 12 ounces every six months.



So you left your oil in for 17 700 miles. How did the oil perform? Any UOA or other anlaysis, or you're just happy you only have to add 12 ounces every six months?
 
Originally Posted By: lexus114
wow, ya got me thinking here. ^^^^^


He has me thinking too...thinking that there's an awful lot of opinion in his post without any data to back it up.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: lexus114
wow, ya got me thinking here. ^^^^^


He has me thinking too...thinking that there's an awful lot of opinion in his post without any data to back it up.




Hahaha...oh man rcy, you call a spade a spade dont you?
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2
and use 70-72% antifreeze for optimal cooling


I hope you mean water not antifreeze, as a higher ratio of antifreeze to water will lead to worse cooling performance.


With ethylene glycol, the cooling ability continues to increase up to 70% antifreeze and 30% water according to the current printing on 100% bottles of Prestone. Above that ratio of ethylene glycol, the cooling performance begins to diminish.

The cooling performance also diminishes below that 70% ratio. Whoops...did someone not figure that out already?
70% is optimal. Some manufacturers listed it as 72% (Peak?)
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: OilGuy2

From what I see on this forum, there's a lot of people using synthetics that remain uncomfortable with the long oil change intervals. Well, the aforementioned Sentra SER went 17,700 miles on the previous oil change and for the current 14,000 miles the gas mileage has continued to improve and the top off requirement has not changed from before: around 12 ounces every six months.



So you left your oil in for 17 700 miles. How did the oil perform? Any UOA or other anlaysis, or you're just happy you only have to add 12 ounces every six months?


EPA is 24 city 30 highway but the car gets 28 city and 34-36 highway.

Have to admit that I'm pretty happy with the low rate of top off required. Pretty nice to go 15 months and 17,700 miles and still have a little bit left in a quart bottle.

The current fill is at 14,000 miles and the current top off quart is still half full. With less top off, I'm not likely to go past 15,000 this time. Expect to change it out shortly.

UOA would be interesting, but I run a mix of four different lubricants for ease of turnover, fast oil pressure rise, reduction of friction, extreme pressure capability and maximum shear resistance. Its 91.1% PAO, 6.4% Moly and 2.5% ESTER by volume. The main component is Mobil 1 EP oils. Moly and Ester are the key to fuel economy and extreme reduction of wear.
 
Originally Posted By: rcy
Originally Posted By: lexus114
wow, ya got me thinking here. ^^^^^


He has me thinking too...thinking that there's an awful lot of opinion in his post without any data to back it up.


That's what the doctors said to Louis Pasteur when he recommended that surgery be performed with sterile hands and sterile instruments on a sterile table. So the Army Surgeons continued to drink and smoke while performing surgery during the American Civil War and surgeons did not adopt Louis Pasteur's recommendations for several decades.

Kindly post your difference of opinion and include your data to back it up please. Or is "change" the problem?
 
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