Better fuel mileage with synthetic?

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Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Hmm, how is he going to spin this? I know, if you used synthetic with MMO, you wouldn't need teardowns. Poof, another proof that his "reasoning" is right and challenging it with facts and logic is futile.


Good question.
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All I know is that I routinely got vehicles to go into the hundreds of thousands of miles, all on conventional oil, and all with 6,000 mile OCIs, and Wix filters before ADBVs became the norm. High ZDDP didn't save the cams. Conventional didn't sludge the engines. Synthetic would have cost me much more, and the spread between conventional and synthetic prices was much more pronounced back then.

The taxi owners who did have problems were the ones who messed around with the basics of maintenance. They, just like everyone else, would claim they changed every 3,000 miles, yet their oils was black and had the consistency of tar, and low on the dipstick. Or they'd never maintain anything else that could affect the oil and lubrication, including the PCV or fueling. And the few guys that did try synthetic didn't have a clue as to how to maintain an engine in the first place, and all that did was buy themselves a bit of time.

I've used synthetic, too, and think it's a great product. However, unless the vehicle is speced for it (or has some overriding reason to use it) or the OCIs are being extended, I think it's a waste of money. As I've mentioned before, my G is under warranty, and I am not using synthetic for 3750 mile OCIs. So, synthetics are out until at least warranty is done. As for my old truck, with a carb, I'm not particularly enthused about diluting expensive synthetic with gasoline, either.
 
Jumping in quite late in this thread. I am known for mixing oils(dino/sys), not known as one who uses straight synthetic. But, I have on several occasions, used straight syn 5W30(in my current DD's) same brand(Mobil 1 or SuperTech or Havoline syn's) without any mixing involved, for an extended OCI(in access of 5K). Never saw any MPG advantages compared to dino oils and I check my MPG always. ATMOF, the engines seemed a bit more audiable. Not noisy per/say but, not as smooth/quiet as on regular dino oils.
 
To answer the original question, I never noticed a change in gas mileage, or noise from switching to synthetic. Going back to dino did not change anything either.
I'm sure the advantages of synthetic will show up on a UOA though.
 
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Originally Posted By: Garak
I've used synthetic, too, and think it's a great product. However, unless the vehicle is speced for it (or has some overriding reason to use it) or the OCIs are being extended, I think it's a waste of money. As I've mentioned before, my G is under warranty, and I am not using synthetic for 3750 mile OCIs. So, synthetics are out until at least warranty is done. As for my old truck, with a carb, I'm not particularly enthused about diluting expensive synthetic with gasoline, either.


I have built & torn down more engines than I can remember. For a regular NA engine parrafain based mineral is what I use. Turbo or high heat applications is the only time I spring for syn. I do agree with everything GARAK has said.
 
Originally Posted By: Radman
I have built & torn down more engines than I can remember. For a regular NA engine parrafain based mineral is what I use. Turbo or high heat applications is the only time I spring for syn. I do agree with everything GARAK has said.


Heck, even some turbo applications are okay with conventional, if not quite optimal. My old Audi Turbo's sump temperatures never exceeded 95 C, no matter how hard I drove it and no matter how hot it was. It was, however, one of those vehicles where one might choose a synthetic simply because of the wider variety of grades available. It was speced for thicker oils (i.e. 15w-40 was the most widely recommended grade), but one also has to keep cold starts in mind up here. 0w-40 was a great all year grade for it, albeit an expensive one.

I've also had a few older vehicles with consumption issues over the years, particularly when I was younger (or the now solved leakage issue on the F-150). I always had an issue with putting in $9 per litre oil only to have it slowly leak onto the driveway or find its way out the tail pipe in short order.
 
Oilguy said:
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MMO also has ester type aromatics that will adhere to engine metal.


What information do you have to support this? And what is an "ester type aromatic?"

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Once upon a time, we used to lubricate our cars with heating oil. Then they came up with PAO, Ester and Hydrocracking. No more heating oil with detergents in our cars!



Oilguy, do you do this for shock effect or what?
 
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