Best Xw-30 Oil for Winter of 2013/2014 ?

[Rolla07]

Originally Posted By: DragRace
These types of threads are entertaining @ best. A good battery is more important IMO then what oil your using.


Nobody is saying otherwise. Its a thread discussing best winter oil for optimal cold starts and engine protection. Nobody is talking about batteries.

 

[DragRace]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: DragRace
These types of threads are entertaining @ best. A good battery is more important IMO then what oil your using.


Nobody is saying otherwise. Its a thread discussing best winter oil for optimal cold starts and engine protection. Nobody is talking about batteries.


I've always used the spec that was listed in my owners manual,never an issue.

Pick your favorite oil,in the spec'd grade and run it.

 

[Rolla07]

For those interested I came across the SN rated PU data sheets.

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140007304052_201207271342.pdf

 

[A_Harman]

Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: motts
GC has -60 pour point


Pour point is pretty much an irrelevant spec for predicting cold weather performance in an engine. GC also has a HTHS vis of 3.5, and a VI of 166, according to BITOG members. Compared to other 0W30 and 5W30 oils, it is a much thicker oil at cold, winter start ups. Castrol has not published CCS or MRV for GC have they?


GC is actually pretty good at Cold Cranking: 5800cP @ -35C (max allowable in SAE spec is 6200)
I got this number from the European Castrol site.

 

[TiredTrucker]

Schaeffer makes a pretty good 5w30 that would be a good choice.

 

[nitehawk55]

Originally Posted By: Rolla07
Originally Posted By: DragRace
These types of threads are entertaining @ best. A good battery is more important IMO then what oil your using.


Nobody is saying otherwise. Its a thread discussing best winter oil for optimal cold starts and engine protection. Nobody is talking about batteries.


Well a weak battery is going to let you down faster than a slightly too heavy a grade of oil . A lot of things to look at on your vehicle before the cold of winter comes and oil is certainly one thing to consider if you live in an area of extreme cold .

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: Phishin
..........I'd choose ............ GC before PP or Havoline. ........


Why would you want a thick oil like GC for winter use?

I would because my turbo isn't going to get an oil with an HTHS of lower than 3.5. RC oils are below my comfort zone and no uoa or pds info is going to change that.

If this is for the Legacy GT, I wouldn't run it unless you drive it very easy. Then again what's the point of having an LGT if that's the case. It might be fine with 3k mile intervals though.

My winter fill will be Motul X-cess 5W-40. If I feel it's too thick, I'll thin it out a bit after I burn through a quart.

So what's the application?

-Dennis


Several years ago Terry Dyson told me anything thicker than a 5W30 in a Subaru 2.5L 250HP motor is absolutely not necessary in a street driven car. Back then he was recommending PP. OTOH, at the Subaru forums, the mantra is "thicker is better". So I split the difference.

Last winter (and all year) I ran a M1 blend of 0W20 and 0W40. This year I am over my short lived infatuation with DIY blends, and will probably use the 5L jug of Motul X-Lite 0W30 I have had sitting in my basement for 2 years.

But I still think that for most engines that spec a 5W30, the PP has the most favorable viscometrics for a 1-10 degF winter morning start. I'll be using it in my snow blower.

 

[webfors]

I bet AFE would protect that turbo just fine. M1 has a little chart that rates AFE over regular for extreme heat protection

 

[pbm]

My 2008 Elantra allows for both 5w20 and 5w30.
I have both synthetic 5w30 and dino 5w20 and have wondered which has better cold weather properties (where 0* F is the coldest expected and the 20s are more commonplace)?

Are full synthetic 5w30's better in the cold than dino 5w20's (which we know are part syn.)?

 

[typ901]

Originally Posted By: A_Harman
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: motts
GC has -60 pour point


Pour point is pretty much an irrelevant spec for predicting cold weather performance in an engine. GC also has a HTHS vis of 3.5, and a VI of 166, according to BITOG members. Compared to other 0W30 and 5W30 oils, it is a much thicker oil at cold, winter start ups. Castrol has not published CCS or MRV for GC have they?


GC is actually pretty good at Cold Cranking: 5800cP @ -35C (max allowable in SAE spec is 6200)
I got this number from the European Castrol site.


If that's accurate, the ccs is close to PP 0w-20 @-35C

http://www.epc.shell.com/Docs/GPCDOC_X_cbe_24855_key_140007054941_201202271154.pdf

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Originally Posted By: SubLGT
Originally Posted By: Phishin
..........I'd choose ............ GC before PP or Havoline. ........


Why would you want a thick oil like GC for winter use?

I would because my turbo isn't going to get an oil with an HTHS of lower than 3.5. RC oils are below my comfort zone and no uoa or pds info is going to change that.

If this is for the Legacy GT, I wouldn't run it unless you drive it very easy. Then again what's the point of having an LGT if that's the case. It might be fine with 3k mile intervals though.

My winter fill will be Motul X-cess 5W-40. If I feel it's too thick, I'll thin it out a bit after I burn through a quart.

So what's the application?

-Dennis


Several years ago Terry Dyson told me anything thicker than a 5W30 in a Subaru 2.5L 250HP motor is absolutely not necessary in a street driven car. Back then he was recommending PP. OTOH, at the Subaru forums, the mantra is "thicker is better". So I split the difference.

Last winter (and all year) I ran a M1 blend of 0W20 and 0W40. This year I am over my short lived infatuation with DIY blends, and will probably use the 5L jug of Motul X-Lite 0W30 I have had sitting in my basement for 2 years.

But I still think that for most engines that spec a 5W30, the PP has the most favorable viscometrics for a 1-10 degF winter morning start. I'll be using it in my snow blower.

Terry probably hasn't seen the numerous turbo and bearing failure threads on nasioc, legacygt, iwsti, and other Subaru forums on EC and RC oils.

I do think that early oil changes would be the key though and would not go beyond 3,750 miles on a thin oil. Been there, done that and a turbo failure 250 miles into a 1,200 mile trip is no fun and not cheap.

What year do you have again (ie, are you affected by the AVCS/turbo banjo bolt screen issue?)?

Good luck!

-Dennis

 

[demarpaint]

Best? Tough call. I plan on using AFE 0W30 this winter. IMO it's one of the best 0w30 oils out there.

 

[SubLGT]

Originally Posted By: bluesubie
...................I do think that early oil changes would be the key though and would not go beyond 3,750 miles on a thin oil. Been there, done that and a turbo failure 250 miles into a 1,200 mile trip is no fun and not cheap.

What year do you have again (ie, are you affected by the AVCS/turbo banjo bolt screen issue?)?

Good luck!

-Dennis


I have a 2005, with 48,000 miles. Turbo screen was checked 2 years ago, and was clean. Since I drive less than 6K per year, I do only one oil change annually, in October.

 

[towncar]

Just wanted to add that Motul X-lite 0W30 is discontinued, and no longer available in official stores.

Too bad, because for older engines it has perfect parameters, like high TBN and Full SAPS along with 3,6 HTHS. Why did Motul stopped producing it, i have no idea. Even on several car forums people were recommending this oil. I was glad i discovered it a year ago, as the car runs great, no lifter tick, and smooth running even when cold. I'm planning to buy one for the last time, as there are still some old stock for sale.

 

[yvon_la]

Best ?I will assume that the oil will need to be conventional (polarity issue and all that) if you don't know what I talk about please read bob various article on the main page ,I cannot resume his lifetime work in 3 words a.it would be disrespectful of me.I tend to like valvoline premium conventional.its so ordinary number wise I bet a lot disregard it here a.yet ,everytime we see a Blackstone test its among top oil in wear number(particulatevlike copper ,aluminium or iron

 

[bluesubie]

Originally Posted By: yvon_la
Best ?I will assume that the oil will need to be conventional (polarity issue and all that) if you don't know what I talk about please read bob various article on the main page ...

Except that conventional is not recommended for the OP's application.

-Dennis

 

[ForceFedMopar]

I've run all different 10w30 summer and winter in my turbo Lebaron GTC, no bearing or turbo failure yet. And I typically run 15+ psi. That's on a Garrett T3 turbo, maybe the Mitsubishi-style turbos are more finicky. I did have one of those go bad on my Daytona (TD04).

I'm about to switch to 5w30 PYB in the Lebaron. I thought about switching to the PP synthetic, but it has a couple leaks, and I don't want to have to buy a 9 dollar quart every few weeks

I also live in SC, so somewhat mild winters.