Best oil for Chevy 2.7 in ND winter

CKN

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You nor your engine will notice any difference. Just pick any major brand of 0W-30 and run it with no worries.
You know there are people on here who claim THEY CAN TELL the difference between different oils-by the seat of their pants. Yea-I got LakeFront property outside of Barstow, California for sale too.......
 
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I'm a thickie but even i wouldn't be against lowering down to a 20 grade in those temps. But Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 is known to flow very well because of its base being pretty resilient to forming wax crystals in the cold. Do you leave it in the garage or outside? If it has remote start it wouldn't be bad to let it idle for minute or two but that's more for letting the interior warm up for comfort. But more importantly just drive softly since putting a load does warm it up faster than idling. I don't really start acceleration beyond 2000rpm until i see the temp gauge start to go up.

If you're a "thickie" why would you move to a 20 grade because it was cold when there are 0W-30s and 0W-40's out there? What does a 20, 30, or 40 grade have to do with cold weather performance?
 
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If you're a "thickie" why would you move to a 20 grade because it was cold when there are 0W-30s and 0W-40's out there? What does a 20, 30, or 40 grade have to do with cold weather performance?
Because a 20 grade will still protect plenty well in very cold climate yet still pump better, let the engine start a bit easier in those cold temps, and provide touch better fuel economy during the warm up. Once warmed up it's about non existent. I'm plenty confident pup 0w-20 and a fram tg/ultra will at the very least protect as well as a cheap standard 5w-30 d1g2 oil which is what the 2.7 is spec'd for along with a standard ac delco oil filter that filters to 30um @99%.
 
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Because a 20 grade will still protect plenty well in very cold climate yet still pump better, let the engine start a bit easier in those cold temps, and provide touch better fuel economy during the warm up. Once warmed up it's about non existent. I'm plenty confident pup 0w-20 and a fram tg/ultra will at the very least protect as well as a cheap standard 5w-30 d1g2 oil which is what the 2.7 is spec'd for along with a standard ac delco oil filter that filters to 30um @99%.
For a given winter grade a 20 will not “pump” better than a 30 grade or 40 grade during cold startup. There is no difference in the “pumpability” of a 0W20, 0W30, or 0W40 during cold start up.

That’s my point…
 
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For a given winter grade a 20 will not “pump” better than a 30 grade or 40 grade during cold startup. There is no difference in the “pumpability” of a 0W20, 0W30, or 0W40 during cold start up.

That’s my point…
That's a nice point you've got there friend. But I'm confused as to why you state it since you seem to believe i stated thicker oil wouldn't pump, but do feel free to quote me where i said it wouldn't.

A thinner oil just pumps easier in very low temps. That's why i said "let the engine start a bit easier in those cold temps" not that it wouldn't be able to at all. I also see you conveniently glossed over the part where i said "Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 is known to flow very well because of its base being pretty resilient to forming wax crystals in the cold" I don't why you're fixated on just the 20 grade part. Do you actually believe that a 0w-20 and 0w-40 actually pump the same without putting a higher load on the engine as it tries to spin an oil pump with more load on it? Or that if an oil says 0w-20 or 0w-40 they'll have the same viscosity in the cold? Now sure the pump can relieve pressure but it's still more load for the engine to deal with.
 
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A thinner oil just pumps easier in very low temps. That's why i said "let the engine start a bit easier in those cold temps" not that it wouldn't be able to at all. I also see you conveniently glossed over the part where i said "Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 is known to flow very well because of its base being pretty resilient to forming wax crystals in the cold" I don't why you're fixated on just the 20 grade part. Do you actually believe that a 0w-20 and 0w-40 actually pump the same without putting a higher load on the engine as it tries to spin an oil pump with more load on it? Or that if an oil says 0w-20 or 0w-40 they'll have the same viscosity in the cold? Now sure the pump can relieve pressure but it's still more load for the engine to deal with.
But that's reflected in the winter rating and is agnostic to the brand. If Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was significantly better that any other 5W rated oil and met the requirements for a 0W rated oil then it would be labeled as such. As it stands it is the same as any other 5W rated oil.

And whether an oil with the same winter rating but of a different grade can be pumped easier is entirely dependent on the temperature. It's largely irrelevant however since once it pumps the oil will rapidly begin to heat.
 
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That's a nice point you've got there friend. But I'm confused as to why you state it since you seem to believe i stated thicker oil wouldn't pump, but do feel free to quote me where i said it wouldn't.

A thinner oil just pumps easier in very low temps. That's why i said "let the engine start a bit easier in those cold temps" not that it wouldn't be able to at all. I also see you conveniently glossed over the part where i said "Pennzoil ultra platinum 5w-30 is known to flow very well because of its base being pretty resilient to forming wax crystals in the cold" I don't why you're fixated on just the 20 grade part. Do you actually believe that a 0w-20 and 0w-40 actually pump the same without putting a higher load on the engine as it tries to spin an oil pump with more load on it? Or that if an oil says 0w-20 or 0w-40 they'll have the same viscosity in the cold? Now sure the pump can relieve pressure but it's still more load for the engine to deal with.
1. There is NO meaningful difference in the pumpability (did I make up a word here?) between 0W20, 0W30, and 0W40 at cold temps.

2. I'm not fixated on the 20 grade part. I'm fixated on the 0W part which makes your comment that you'd even be willing to move to a 0W20 completely irrelevant. The only thing that would've made sense is if you said you would be willing to move from 5W to 0W.

3. Yes, I do believe 0W20 and 0W40 pump the same at cold temps - THAT'S THE ENTIRE POINT OF THE WINTER RATING!

4. I don't care that Pennzoil 5W30 is on the thin side or that the base oil is resilient to forming wax crystals, if it met the 0W requirements then it would be rated as a 0W oil and it's not.

5. You clearly don't understand what the winter rating and grade mean.
 
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What do y’all think?

2 pages in and I don't think there's a clear answer to your best oil question,...probably because there is no "best" oil. I can give you the best solution to your cold weather problem, one that I would do, move to a place where it isn't so d*** cold. The fact that you typed "y'all" indicates that you belong down here in the south. ;)

I hate the cold.🥶
 
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But that's reflected in the winter rating and is agnostic to the brand. If Pennzoil Ultra Platinum was significantly better that any other 5W rated oil and met the requirements for a 0W rated oil then it would be labeled as such. As it stands it is the same as any other 5W rated oil.

And whether an oil with the same winter rating but of a different grade can be pumped easier is entirely dependent on the temperature. It's largely irrelevant however since once it pumps the oil will rapidly begin to heat.
What's even the point of all of this then as far as PAO, base stock this, cold flow that, GTL, etc.

Why aren't we all just using a regular Group III oil in everything and calling it a day?
 
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What's even the point of all of this then as far as PAO, base stock this, cold flow that, GTL, etc.

Why aren't we all just using a regular Group III oil in everything and calling it a day?
Lol...exactly! BITOG is least useful for discussing...you guessed it...oil. It's awesome for discussing which washer to buy. WAY too many people overthinking it. PAO, base stock, GTL, etc impart certain qualities to oil which in the case of cold pumpability can be summarized by its winter rating. When you start trying to decipher the tea leaves of GTL vs PAO and cold properties within say 0W20's, well that's a fool's errand. At the end of the day, all 0W20's should perform similarly with respect to their cold properties regardless of PAO, GTL, base stock, etc.
 

wlk

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Yeah, I wouldn’t use a type of oil not listed as acceptable in the manual, it’s why I mentioned it in the original post. I was asking what 0w-30 oil do y’all think flows the best in sub -20f weather, sorry about the confusion. Yes the pan is plastic and it is honey comb textured so the glue on pan heating pads won’t work well and the smooth sides are too narrow. I thought about just tossing an electric blanket in there on nights below -20f, not sure if that would help since the oil pan is down low. I thought maybe one brand of oil might shine as far as low temp flow. Interesting fact about the factory block heater, it won’t even come on unless the ambient temperature is below -10f. I might be left with the hose heater, will have to ask the dealer if that would void the warranty.
🦆 tape
 
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Some ancient history, but I'll bore you with it anyway. Back in 01 '05 , I was working overnights out in Westborough Work let out at 2:00 AM temp was -17F. I was running winter weight oil in the sump of the Borman 6, 10w40
 
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Lol...exactly! BITOG is least useful for discussing...you guessed it...oil. It's awesome for discussing which washer to buy. WAY too many people overthinking it. PAO, base stock, GTL, etc impart certain qualities to oil which in the case of cold pumpability can be summarized by its winter rating. When you start trying to decipher the tea leaves of GTL vs PAO and cold properties within say 0W20's, well that's a fool's errand. At the end of the day, all 0W20's should perform similarly with respect to their cold properties regardless of PAO, GTL, base stock, etc.

I don't think it's as simple as you're suggesting it is. HPL has stated in their thread that their premium plus has better cold weather properties than the premium or regular oil, even though all 3 do have 0w options. And David has explicitly stated that unless you're living in a cold climate, the premium plus is wasting money.

So clearly he is saying there is a difference.

 
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Jun 3, 2021
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I don't think it's as simple as you're suggesting it is. HPL has stated in their thread that their premium plus has better cold weather properties than the premium or regular oil, even though all 3 do have 0w options. And David has explicitly stated that unless you're living in a cold climate, the premium plus is wasting money.

So clearly he is saying there is a difference.

And to add to this, you've got companies like Shell and Mobil advertising that their synthetic options offer better cold weather properties than their blends, despite them all being 0W anyway. So, what's the real deal? Are they the same or aren't they?
 
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