I just bought a 96' Camaro SS. I need some advice on getting the most for my money. I have an extra $1000 that I'm going to spend on the car. Everything is still stock. Please help.
Best way to spend $1000?
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I think you should do two things first.
Check everything over, and make sure to fix anything that needs fixing.
Wait at least a month (preferably two or three) and see if anything breaks, and fix that first. On a similar note, is any expensive part of the regular maintenence due soon?
I guess I just mean, don't put $1000 into wheels and tires and then find out you need a new radiator.
Also, I'm a firm believer in upgrading in order:
brakes, suspension, engine.
No sense in making the car faster if you can't stop! ;-)
Check everything over, and make sure to fix anything that needs fixing.
Wait at least a month (preferably two or three) and see if anything breaks, and fix that first. On a similar note, is any expensive part of the regular maintenence due soon?
I guess I just mean, don't put $1000 into wheels and tires and then find out you need a new radiator.
Also, I'm a firm believer in upgrading in order:
brakes, suspension, engine.
No sense in making the car faster if you can't stop! ;-)
Headers, cat-back exhaust, Hypertech power programmer.
[ May 05, 2004, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
[ May 05, 2004, 07:17 PM: Message edited by: sbc350gearhead ]
Couldn't give a better suggestion.
Thanks for all the great suggestions. Since brakes are already done, suspension is the next step. The car is convertible...Does anyone know how much a roll bar cost?
For a grand, in this order: cold air intake, 3 inch flowmaster or gibson (depending on the sound you want) dual split catback with tip and then chip it with a custom chip from Mike Troyer. He's done 1000's of custom burns and can tailor make you one.
I agree with Ryan. Subframes ALL THE WAY first, especially since yours is a convertable. Then, if you truely are going to get "busy" with the suspension, I'd get some Lou Gillati coilovers and polyurethane bushings as the first suspenszion mods. Lowering springs with aftermarket shocks are ok, but coil-overs are simply much better in terms of performance and ride quality because when you lower the car with the coil-overs, the spring height stays the same no matter how high or low you set the coil-overs.
http://www.lgmotorsports.com/OCLT1_Fbody_Suspension.htm
Coil-overs are at the bottom. Go with softer springs though, cause the ones supplied are STIFF, the same rates he uses on world challenge race cars (potholes will slam you!).
Coil-overs are at the bottom. Go with softer springs though, cause the ones supplied are STIFF, the same rates he uses on world challenge race cars (potholes will slam you!).
96 Camaro has reflashable pcm, nothing to burn, one of the favorites among the LT1 crowd is Bryan Herter of pcmforless.com , I have his programming in my Caprice(cammed LT1) and it has been one of the best mods I have done. Ed Wright is a HUGE name in this field too, he has been around longer than the other and you pay more for that experiance, but other tuners are just as good especially in a near stock or common combo. Hypertech is crap, b-body guys have dyno proven loses, it cost as much as or more than TRUELY custom programming but is essetially "canned" programming that lets you make a FEW selections. I have LT1 reprogramming software like what the tuners use and the couple things Hypertech lets you play with don't even scratch the surface of what a custom tuner can do for you.
If it is an automatic service the tranny and get a Transgo(specifically) kit. My whole tranny was done by a guy near you, I would highly recommend him for any work an automatic might need. ProBuilt Automatics
Suspension I can't say much on, but trust me on the pcm and tranny stuff since my car uses the same parts.
If it is an automatic service the tranny and get a Transgo(specifically) kit. My whole tranny was done by a guy near you, I would highly recommend him for any work an automatic might need. ProBuilt Automatics
Suspension I can't say much on, but trust me on the pcm and tranny stuff since my car uses the same parts.
Buy a cheap car that gets 35 mpg. In 20000 miles you'll have saved money!
You guys are looking at the horizon, not necessarily where things are at or SHOULD be.
I say start at grass roots maintenence.
Change and upgrade all fluids and filters, ATF, Coolant, Power Steering, Oil, Differential, etc.
Wires, Plugs, O2 sensors, PCV, OptiSpark, the list goes on.
Synthetics *hint-hint*
Auto-Rx would be do a great job cleaning out the inside.
Save the remainder towards a tire upgrade, amazing what a set of well selected radials will do for performance, safety and handling.
Tisk Tisk, people ignore the obvious for power adders.
I too want to upgrade my car like the next guy...however I will not do so to the detriment of routine service.
I say start at grass roots maintenence.
Change and upgrade all fluids and filters, ATF, Coolant, Power Steering, Oil, Differential, etc.
Wires, Plugs, O2 sensors, PCV, OptiSpark, the list goes on.
Synthetics *hint-hint*
Auto-Rx would be do a great job cleaning out the inside.
Save the remainder towards a tire upgrade, amazing what a set of well selected radials will do for performance, safety and handling.
Tisk Tisk, people ignore the obvious for power adders.
I too want to upgrade my car like the next guy...however I will not do so to the detriment of routine service.
Invest in a decent driving school. Pays better dividends in the long run IMHO.
I'd go with the suggestion of waiting a while to see if anything brakes on you. Unless the tires are just completely new, I'd spend it on some nice looking tires and wheels.
The first mod any new Fbody owner should do is a set of Subframe Connectors. The Fbody platform was a unibody design and is not known for rigidness. SFC's tie the back and front subframes together making the car far more rigid than stock. Under hard acceleration without SFC's will eventually crease your rear fender panels where the body meets the hatchback making the car look awful. SFC's will prevent this. The SS's suspension is pretty good for a solid rear RWD car from the factory but a good set of lower control arms, stronger torque arm and adjustible panhard rod are a few good ideas to beef up the suspension. If your going for more power then let me ask you a few Q's? Did your SS come with the upgraded SLP 2 on the left catback? The SS's also had a better intake setup than the Z28's so you allready have that going. I would add a good set of Longtube Headers along with an ORY pipe and that should put you in the high 280-300rwhp range. Check out CamaroZ28.com and go through the LT1 forum for good idea's on mods. Congrats on the SS! I always loved the 96-97 SS models, they just look meaner than the current LS1 cars.
HTH Ryan 02 Camaro SS LS1 399rwhp @ 386rwtq
HTH Ryan 02 Camaro SS LS1 399rwhp @ 386rwtq
Invest it in 1000 Lotto tickets.
Maintenance, then intake, exhaust and PCM...in reality a good Roth IRA contribution would be better than all three
Heads, hotter cam and auto tap software! Go to WWW.PACEPARTS.COM and order a catalog. I would also check out FBody.Net and FBody.org ! Driveing school would also be fun. If you do not have the torsen rear end then a nice posi or limited slip might be in order. If you really like to live life hard maybe a Detroit Locker!
Patman
Staff member
Definitely avoid the Hypertech programmer, it is useless. I bought one for my old LT1 I had a few years ago, and installed the programming at the track and ran identical times.
Getting a custom dyno tune is the best way to go, as every car is different. I just had my 95 Formula dyno tuned, and picked up 11rwhp and the torque curve is now flatter and 30 pound feet stronger in the midrange! I easily am going to run 2 tenths quicker now, the engine is much smoother as it revs to the redline and it snaps into the next gear without hesitation. I'm now at 265rwhp, which is very high for an automatic LT1 with just a catback and programming.
The LT1 responds really well to headers, so that should be top on your list too. A good catback is going to help, but you can get the same power from a $30 cutout too. A CAI helps a lot also. With headers, cutout, CAI and custom programming, you could still be under $1000 and you'd run very low 13s at the track.
Definitely do all the tune up stuff first though, plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, etc.
Getting a custom dyno tune is the best way to go, as every car is different. I just had my 95 Formula dyno tuned, and picked up 11rwhp and the torque curve is now flatter and 30 pound feet stronger in the midrange! I easily am going to run 2 tenths quicker now, the engine is much smoother as it revs to the redline and it snaps into the next gear without hesitation. I'm now at 265rwhp, which is very high for an automatic LT1 with just a catback and programming.
The LT1 responds really well to headers, so that should be top on your list too. A good catback is going to help, but you can get the same power from a $30 cutout too. A CAI helps a lot also. With headers, cutout, CAI and custom programming, you could still be under $1000 and you'd run very low 13s at the track.
Definitely do all the tune up stuff first though, plugs, wires, coil, fuel filter, etc.
To spend it all on your car? Buy gas.. you'll need it the way oil prices are traded in London and Singapore..
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