Best wax / sealant for a new ride

Status
Not open for further replies.
^ Claying does provide excellent/smooth results. However, the original question was "best wax for new ride?". Unless your vehicle has spent several months (>6) on the lot, I doubt clay bar'ing will be necessary. In my experience, it takes a good year before I can justify claying a new car. Of course that could depend a lot on climate, and if your car is garaged, etc.

I also just bought a new ride. I put a coat of Prestone Synthetic on before winter. It's a very mild, inexpensive, easy-to-use wax. Easy on. Easy off. Little to no dust, and doesn't stain black trim. I bought it based off other opinions from this site:)
 
Quote:


:D for those for whom only the the high priced stuff will do!
laugh.gif

Click for definitive auto wax/sealer test
http://www.consumerreports.org/cro/cu-pr...Term=auto%20wax




Having read this report in the past, and again just now, I continue to be simply amazed by these two early paragraphs:

Quote:


Consumer Reports found that the liquid waxes generally provide the best combination of cleaning and protection. But contrary to conventional wisdom, they required more effort than paste waxes to apply and remove. As a group, liquids were the hardest to apply evenly, and they took the most time to buff out.

In addition, some left a powdery residue that had to be wiped off. Even the top-rated Black Magic Liquid Wet Shine Liquid Wax (BM48016) required an extra bit of buffing to eliminate any streaking. And CR’s other best all-around choice, the Turtle Wax Carnauba Car Wax T-6, can cause slight scratching or hazing on newer dark-colored finishes.




A wax does not produce more cleaning ability simply because it's in liquid form rather than paste. Some companies make cleaner waxes both ways, and straightforward waxes (that is, with little or no cleaning ability) both ways. You just can't make blanket statements like that. Unless, of course, you chose - by chance or intention - cleaner waxes in liquid form and straight waxes in paste form. But that wouldn't be a real "test" either.

And that second paragraph: "Turtle Wax Carnauba Car Wax T-6, can cause slight scratching or hazing on newer dark-colored finishes" is just astonishing, and very telling of the lack of understanding on the part of CR. First off, how the heck do you rate a wax a best all around choice if it leaves scratches in the paint? Oh, and someone should tell CR that if in fact it does leave scratches, it's leaving those scratches in the clear coat, not the color coat. So, if in fact it does leave scratches, it isn't leaving them only on dark colors, you just can't see them as easily on lighter colors.

From these two paragraphs alone the article lost all credibility with me. And for the record, I don't use expensive boutique polish and wax on my car. Get your technique down, use the proper tools, and you will get an amazing shine using any decent line of product.
 
Quote:


Quick question... can paint sealant be applied over multi-time waxed surfaces???

Or, must you clay bar or dawn-detergent-wash your surfaces first, in order to strip the wax?




From all I've read, you're supposed to dewax the paint first, so a wash with dawn followed by claybar (which is a good idea to do anyway once in a while) before applying a polymer sealant such as Zaino. It always worked for me pretty well.

As far as good polymer sealants, I've heard a lot of good about Menzerna and Blackfire also. I'm planning to try them at some point, although they should not be applied in direct sunlight, unlike Zaino which doesn't mind direct sunlight. Not having a garage, this is a bit of a concern for me.
 
Thanks for all your input!! I went with the Liquid Glass since it was readily available and had many good reviews. I was pleased with the ease of application and it actually rubbed off easier than the rain-x on my windows. It beads nicely and I will post back with a testament to durability. I can't say that it added significant shine, but it is a new truck after all and I prefer protection to shine anyway. Hope it makes it through winter......
 
To all those touting chemical concoctions other than Liquid Glass......

Nyah nah nah nah nah

Nah nah nah nah nah nah.

Nah.
 
Quote:


To all those touting chemical concoctions other than Liquid Glass......

Nyah nah nah nah nah

Nah nah nah nah nah nah.

Nah.



Hey, if it works for you, good for you.

I've used Liquid Glass in the past and have moved on to the Klasse "twins" and would never look back. YMMV.
cheers.gif
 
Yep, you are correct.

Just couldn't resist reverting to my "mental years" vice the chronological ones.

I'm just glad you didn't threaten to meet me at the bicycle rack after school to beat me up!!!!!

Admittedly, it was a cheap thrill but at my age and position on the socio-economic pyramid (in the basement) cheap thrills are pert' near all that's left to me.

Nyah
 
Just did my wife's 2000 minivan and my 2006 Honda Ridgeline using Klasse all in one and Klasse sealant that I purchase from Autogeek. The combo is suppose to last 6-8 months.It does not leave white marks on the black trim! It's a bit pricey but if it last as long as they say, then it's worth it. You use very little, a about the size of a dime for each section of the car.
 
I understand and appreciate the opinion below.

However, given some of the mis-information about these tests, some clarification is in order.

1. CU accepts no funding, advertising, samples, or even lunches. Their funding is from members, aka "subscribers."
2. CU buys all services/product on the open market the same as you and I. They purchase anonymously. Thus, they immediately have a leg up in credibility over car mags, vendor/enthusiast sites/blogs etc. who do accept hand delivered examples.
3. The test methodology is exacting, and not as loose as what you may have seen elsewhere. They go to great lengths to remove secondary and/or random factors. They do NOT merely wax a car and admire the result. They wax dozens of different samples, side by side with competitors. Put these in outdoor or special indoor stress environments.
4. CU used to give details on their test methods. Apparently in response to the sounds of snoring from their typical member, this has been cut back.
5. To the points made below.
5a. It is not unusual for CU to take their favorite product to task for an undesired feature. They are realistic enough to know that no product is perfect. Compare that to the normal enthusiast site/review/blog.
5b. Despite the exacting methodology, CU has continually "dumbed down" the report to meet the audience. With the level of expertise normal in this forum, I can see where the apparent confusion over black paint and clear coat is exasperating. However, I firmly believe that they know the difference! As the end result, scratches, did not depend on adding another paragraph on clear coats, the editor apparently decided to simplify.
5c. Wax vs Polish vs Sealer. see my note on dumbing down for the audience.

Bottom line for me:
I go to CU/CR first. I read the articles, look for the "engineers notes" if any on the web site, and then apply my own weightings to their scores, and buy the cheapest that falls in the "acceptable" range. With the exception of the FIAT 128 in the early 70's, I have rarely seen CU/CR wrong in extended personal use of their recommendations. I have seen examples where they went to extensive testing on qualities that I did not care about. In those case, I could not use their ratings.

cheers!

Quote:



Having read this report in the past, and again just now, I continue to be simply amazed by these two early paragraphs:

Quote:


Consumer Reports found that the liquid waxes generally provide the best combination of cleaning and protection. But contrary to conventional wisdom, they required more effort than paste waxes to apply and remove. As a group, liquids were the hardest to apply evenly, and they took the most time to buff out.

In addition, some left a powdery residue that had to be wiped off. Even the top-rated Black Magic Liquid Wet Shine Liquid Wax (BM48016) required an extra bit of buffing to eliminate any streaking. And CR’s other best all-around choice, the Turtle Wax Carnauba Car Wax T-6, can cause slight scratching or hazing on newer dark-colored finishes.




A wax does not produce more cleaning ability simply because it's in liquid form rather than paste. Some companies make cleaner waxes both ways, and straightforward waxes (that is, with little or no cleaning ability) both ways. You just can't make blanket statements like that. Unless, of course, you chose - by chance or intention - cleaner waxes in liquid form and straight waxes in paste form. But that wouldn't be a real "test" either.

And that second paragraph: "Turtle Wax Carnauba Car Wax T-6, can cause slight scratching or hazing on newer dark-colored finishes" is just astonishing, and very telling of the lack of understanding on the part of CR. First off, how the heck do you rate a wax a best all around choice if it leaves scratches in the paint? Oh, and someone should tell CR that if in fact it does leave scratches, it's leaving those scratches in the clear coat, not the color coat. So, if in fact it does leave scratches, it isn't leaving them only on dark colors, you just can't see them as easily on lighter colors.

From these two paragraphs alone the article lost all credibility with me. And for the record, I don't use expensive boutique polish and wax on my car. Get your technique down, use the proper tools, and you will get an amazing shine using any decent line of product.


 
I like collinite 845 insulator wax - easy on and off, and it protects like a synthetic sealant for 3 strong months through the NJ winter. I tried Klasse and like this stuff better, it just stinks (literally) to put it on.

It looks like this:
driverside.jpg


and with less misleading reflection on an overcast day:
PB270090.jpg


Whatever LSP I use, I usually find myself using Klasse AIO underneath it. Once all of the swirls are gone, I love the way AIO leaves the surface ready for a wax/sealant.

mb
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top Bottom